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Rigid motor mounts

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by trbomax, Oct 6, 2013.

  1. trbomax
    Joined: Apr 19, 2012
    Posts: 289

    trbomax
    Member

    Has anyone used rigid motor mounts or mounting plates on the street?
     
  2. pinkynoegg
    Joined: Dec 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,136

    pinkynoegg
    Member

    there are a ton of us that run them on the street. I use solid mounts on my flathead coupe and haven't had any problems. they do make the ride a little rougher but its a hot rod, everything about it gives a rough ride
     
  3. Joe Verwey
    Joined: Oct 6, 2013
    Posts: 2

    Joe Verwey
    Member
    from canada

    Have used rigid mounts on street drivers with no problems. The rubber mounts are to keep any harmonics from engine from transfering to chassis.
     
  4. I tried it once back in the 60's with a FE in a Falcon,,it shook the fillings outta my teeth,,I'm older & smarter than that now. HRP
     
  5. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    I use a solid one on the driver's side,and a stock rubber one on the passengers side.It does transfer some vibration,but I think it just accentuates the whole experience of driving a fast old car!:)

    Scott


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  6. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,220

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    I also use a solid on the drivers side only, rubber on pass side and trans. Doesnt feel any different to me than stock and no worries about the engine rolling over from a broken mount.
     
  7. Hotrodbuilderny
    Joined: Mar 20, 2009
    Posts: 1,646

    Hotrodbuilderny
    Member

    If the motor is properly balanced it shouldn't be to bad,but why not use rubber mounts? If you are afraid of breaking them make a torque strap with urethane bushings.
     
  8. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,516

    BLUDICE
    Member

    On my old T bucket - transmission mount too. Had no problems at all. It had a 327 w/ 4sp Saginaw - had 1/8 " clearance between the frame and the fuel pump on the r/s, same on the l/s at the alternator. Engine had a lot of torque and wanted to twist too much with the rubber mounts.
     
  9. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    Right!Thats the reason I welded it up solid in the first place:Broke the drivers side mount,clutch linkage went screwy,throttle linkage went even screw ier!
    I just welded a 1-1/2" piece of flat stock to rack side of the mount,effectively making it solid,and maintaining a stock appearance and avoiding having to fabricate any kind of torque strap.


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  10. bulletproof1
    Joined: Feb 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,079

    bulletproof1
    Member
    from tulsa okla

    solid in my henry j ..
     
  11. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,220

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    LOL before I started using the solid mount I had a street "sleeper" with a column shift, when the car was floored from takeoff I had to hold onto the shifter or the engine would move enough to kick it into neurtral. Good times.
     
  12. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    Freaks you out the first time that happens,huh...?:)


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  13. R35J1S
    Joined: Jul 20, 2012
    Posts: 141

    R35J1S
    Member
    from Missouri

    I nearly killed a guy once because of a broken motor mount. I was pulling into a full service gas station that had a circular drive then had a pretty steep hill as you pulled in. I was driving a 68 camaro with a BBC at the time. As I gave it a little gas to make the hill, the mount let go causing the engine to rock over. This in turn pulled the throttle open. I slammed on the brakes which caused the motor to rock over even more, pulling even harder on the throttle. It was a visious cycle that ended with the gas monkey diving for cover and me smoking my tires all the way thru the circle drive and back out onto the main drag.
    He probably thought I was just a jerk trying to look cool.
     
  14. bangngears
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,248

    bangngears
    Member
    from ofallon mo

    I use the flathead biscuits on everything from sbc to nailhead and hemi.They give a good ride and will not give or break.
     
  15. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,293

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    Street driven Rods do not need to ride crappy. I don't think a bad riding car is cool myself.
    Vibs in to the car from rigid mounts will shorten cars life in a lot of ways,too EZ to put it together with mounts that are designed as the motor came with or alike. Don't rat crap rod. Those that are happy with vibs,cracks,things falling apart, fine for them,they are having fun I think. In a drag car fine.
     
  16. slowmotion
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 3,412

    slowmotion
    Member

    Not needed on a street only car, unless frequent banzia blasts are your thing.
     
  17. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    Never said anything about riding crappy.How does a motor mount have any effect on the ride?
    And rat rod?I don't even know what the hell you're talking about there,because my modified stock mount is invisible,unlike some butchered turnbuckle or something.


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  18. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,543

    powrshftr
    Member

    I beg to differ.Try driving your street driven hot rod with cam,gears,and a 4-spd for a year or so without toasting a stock motor mount.If you can do that,you're a quart low on testosterone.Its just too much fun to slam the throttle open and row it through the gears.....Isn't that why we build hot rods on the first place?After all,they're not called "Luke warm rods", or "room temperature rods"...:)


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  19. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,586

    117harv
    Member

    [​IMG] Solid Motor Mounts here is another thread.

    I have driven a few with no noticeable differance as far as vibrations. The body is rubber mounted, or wood for older stuff here isn't it? The rubber trans mount is the way too go to keep from twisting the trans and or causing dammage.
     
  20. im using flat head style mounts on my car.just a rubber biscuit under the motor..and it still rattles like hell.
     
  21. fender lizard
    Joined: Jan 4, 2010
    Posts: 163

    fender lizard
    Member
    from mcallen tx

    Solid mounts all the way. Not for everyone. Only way is to try it and develop your own opinion. If your even considering it I'm sure you'll be fine with the outcome. I have a bbc in a car and have never had a problem with cracks, rattles, or anything.
     
  22. 5559
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 362

    5559
    Member
    from tn

    I ran a set on a 55 chev with a very stout 427 - 4spd in the late 70s & it loosened everything at one time or another ------- but it was still fun!!!!!!
     
  23. DS1937
    Joined: May 3, 2013
    Posts: 43

    DS1937
    Member

    Solid engine mounts and rubber trans. mount, rides great and does not vibrate. Independent front suspension with coilovers all around. Blown big block Chevy w/400 trans.
     
  24. I think this has a lot to do with how well the engine is balanced, how soft the seat cushions are, your usage of the car and your age. I have never had a solid mount engine, but had a mustang back in the day that broke motor mounts. A turnbuckle and a piece of chain solved the problem, but I always left enough slack so with normal driving there was no solid contact, because I didn't enjoy my feet being tickled through the floor pan.
    Each to his own, so one must try it to decide if it fits you!
     
  25. trbomax
    Joined: Apr 19, 2012
    Posts: 289

    trbomax
    Member

    The only reason I was considering it is because the blown BBC I'm puting in the car is comming out of my BGF boat and already has plates on it. We use rigid mounts in the boats.Actually,the motor is held in with 4 pins and can be pulled out in about 10 minutes.I want to leave the plate on the front because its part of the blower drive and there is no reason to reinvent the wheel, so I guess I will use 55 chev front biskuts/spacers on the front and rubber bellhouseing mounts on each side in the rear with some kind of a saftey link on one side.Thanks for all the comebacks though!
     
  26. fleetside66
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,090

    fleetside66
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Solid motor mounts & a rubber 4-speed trans mount for about three years of driving, with no ill effects, with a relatively stock 283 in the avatar pic. If there is any vibration, it's barely perceptible. It's O.K. by me.
     
  27. 61 chevy
    Joined: Apr 11, 2007
    Posts: 891

    61 chevy
    Member

    I run these, prothane 7.504 by summet, stronger than stock
     
  28. There I fixed it for you.

    Pretty simple concept really.
    Stock Factory designed mounts will work well with stock factory powered cars.
    High performance, high traction vehicle need something better.

    I gather the original poster will be running a blown BBC, probably will need a little bit better mount than the factory rubber biscuits
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2013
  29. retro rodder
    Joined: Apr 24, 2009
    Posts: 183

    retro rodder
    Member
    from cape cod

    solid motor mounts solid leaf spring bushings & top shock mounts are sold too the rest are poly and this is a street car that gets a 1000 to 2000 miles a season plus some drag strip time
     
  30. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Back in my younger days (the 60's and 70's) I wouldn't own a car with rubber mounts......................everything solid mounted with the exception of an occasional rubber trans mount. Never had a problem and the occasional loosing of a few fasteners were taken care of with locktite and routine maintenance. My last planned performance build before the dirt nap (my big block/5spd/q.c. '32 5w) will have solid mounts...............a nice way for a 70+ teenager to go out....right?:eek::D

    Frank
     

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