add an overdrive to it and double your fun! ha ha Or maybe reverse the shift pattern on th e 3 speed and make it more exciting. Or combine the two and have a blast. (might need to go up to 4.10 gears though)
Forget the TH350 behind the 235. Too much of a dog. The T-5 make better use of available torque in the 235. You WILL like it better... r
big fan of the t-5 235 combo. easier, cheaper, and better than auto. i think i spent 400 total, including a new driveshaft. i heard you can use 70's gbody and be even cheaper.
my t5 shifts so much nicer than the old 3, top speed is now 80 and taking off in 2nd is perfect for the 55 rearend im using, couldn't be happier. well i could be, but not with out spending alot of money.
You have plenty of other issues to deal with on that car before you do that. If the 3 speed is working fine, keep it for now. No use making more headaches.
I agree. If you're not happy with the highway speeds...plan on a T5 swap down the road. If you're tired of shifting...neither the 3spd or the 5spd would help cure that, only an Auto. But if you don't mind the way the car goes down the highway, and don't mind the 3spd...but just hate shifting on the column, cut a hole in the floor and bolt up the floor shifter.
Oh yeah,don't get me wrong-this is research for tax return time. Planning on a Thickstun 2x1 and split manifold as well. But before I do all that, The body,paint , and suspension tightening come first
ill join in this thread... I got a 6pin and a power glide in my 58 chevy and theres no reverse... I brought it to a trans shop they wanted 1800 to rebuild it... is there any other trans options that I can use, like does a t350 bolt in?
Dont mean to steal your thread,but while we are on the subject of T-5's.Is an s-10 T-5 setup out of an s-10 the same length as a long tail t-350.I would like to swap out the long tail turbo in my '60 for a t-5.Just want to know what i am in for before hand.My car was an auto originally, but i already installed the clutch pedal ***embly out of my parts car .I just want to know if my shortened driveshaft will work or not?
Hey Satan's, not an issue-I was wondering the same thing. A recipe list for the swap with all the ingredients would be nice
neither the t-5 nor the t350 is a "bolt in" exactly. If you have a v-8 '58 car, with a P-glide, the t350 will swap, but even then you still have a shifter, a kickdown, and a modulator vacuum source to contend with. Having a six complicates things, as you need an adapter to bolt a t350, or a bell or adapter to bolt the t-5. As neither of these ******s came behind the six you better count on having to move or fab the trans mount, plus driveshaft, etc.
You mean like this: http://www.****osgarage.com/tech/****o/t5/index.htm It's for a pick'em up truck, but it's some good info
Ok I know this thread isnt new but i have a question. What adater do you need to bolt a T-5 to 235 chevy? Do you even need one at all?
Completely correct, just finished a 700R4 behind my 235 (in a 54 chevy) and you will need a 350 dollar adapter (lagdone stovebolt) modify the drive shaft, i used the S-10 drive shaft that needed to be lengthened, and put an S-10 (4x4) rear in mine. Used the Walton's trans crossmember, but you need to redrill the bolts and weld one side on, if using the stovebolt this crossmember will not be a bolt on, it's made for SBC's
do any of you guys know if the T-5 with the non removeable bellhousing will bolt up behind a 216/235?
can, possibly. the bell on a 235 bolts on behind the flywheel. you would spend more on an adapter than buying a used s-10 t5. You need a 55 up car or 55-59 truck bellhousing, can use later truck with hydraulic clutch setup. throwout fork must also be of the same type and starter must match flywheel/ bell combo, theres at least 3 different possibility. I heard that early trucks had the same bolt pattern as newer ******s, but you would have to check that yourself.
i could be wrong, but if it has an integral bell, it's not a t-5. if it has the smaller bellhousing pattern to the block, it's a ****ty ****** not worth putting behind a stock 2.5 4 banger, if it has the standard chevy smallblock bellhousing pattern, it's probably a borg warner 3500 if i remember correctly. it's the ****** used in fullsize trucks, stronger but a truck ******.
that seals the decision, if you're running dual pipes, you absolutely MUST run the T-5! gotta be able to back off or downshift and rap em!
"do any of you guys know if the T-5 with the non removeable bellhousing will bolt up behind a 216/235?" The integral bellhousing T-5 is 1993 and up. You want the pre-93. r
I've got a t-5 to small block question. Will a t-5 out of a '92 S-10 bolt up to a chevy 350? If yes, are there any things (mods, different clutch or pressure plate) that need to be done first? Thanks, -stick
either put in world cl*** parts, or use the tail housing on a camaro/firebird t5. save the gears to fight another day!
How did you "lengthen" the driveshaft? I made that grammatical error recently, when I meant to say "had a longer shaft made". Also, have you driven the '54 with the 700 in it yet? A friend put a 200-4R behind a '64 inline-6 a while back and it wouldn't move out of its own way, even with the short gears out back. By the time he built up enough speed to get in overdrive, he was already where he needed to go!
Thanks for the heads up on the world cl*** parts. Do you think it's nessesary for a street driven car? I know, "you can pay me now or pay me later". Thanks, -stick
took it to a drive shaft shop and asked nicely.... I have only driven it about 50 miles since, the 2 carbs on it took a **** on me and currently working the linkage for the 3 carbs.... i have 3.73 gears in the rear, but did take it on the freeway, and wow, hugh improvment, i can keep up with traffic at 70!!!!! and i wasn't pushing the rpms like i used to. I have the TV setup to shift at low rpms, so i'll hit 45 and be in OD, which works great for me. As far as getting outta it's way, it never did before, and won't win any races now, but its a cruiser, not a race car.
It was a "semantics" thing. Anyway, a word of caution on setting up your TV...it's NOT for shift points, it's for fluid pressure and shift firmness. If you want to mess with your shift points and not worry about hurting the ******, TCI has an inexpensive governor spring kit that works great. You can make the changes in your driveway.
The Jalopy Journal
