Projects 1948 Chevrolet fleetmaster

You get one speck of that Teflon tape in a needle valve seat and you can forget about starting or running right, be careful with that stuff. PS, the new WW's look great, OOthis world Cooooool! You'll need a speedometer correction add on unit to get that speedo to read correct MPH with those big tires, you prob already knew that though.

regards,

Cosmo with the '49

 

thanks guys. worked double shifts all weekend so I wasn't able to get on the car but today went through and made sure there were no vacuum leaks. checked the carb base/seat thing, gasket, lines and advance line. tomorrow I check the timing again I just wanted to get any vacuum issue possibilities out of the way. thanks for all the info guys, I need it.

looks like its now mandatory I get this car done, and my other ones. I screwed myself going to the dmv to check on the total to register the 59 and 48 and renew the tags on the 65. well its good and bad news. good news is the girl saw pictures of the cars on my phone and wanted to see them in person so she set me up to have all of them verified there at the dmv not at the chp even though I had already started the registration on the 48 back when I first got it and was sent mandatory chp referral verification. i heard theyre very strict, you take it to get the vin checked and sometimes if you have a tail light out or your gauges not working yet they wont verify you till its fixed. so now i get to avoid any of that bs and just go straight to the dmv where shell verify it =D

that's the good news, bad news is since i started the registration, i have 20 days to get them verified and pay the fees to complete the registration and also get the original plates issued to each



20 days i can do it, but will be long days and nights. i need to pay $317 for the 59



$221 for the 48



and $180 for the 65. now im pressed for time. got 20 days to have the timing set on the 48 so i can have it finished and drive it there, and also to have the 59 done and drive it there which means finish putting in the interior, put in the bumper kit and all the moldings and finish the rewiring. that's all they need, will repaint the 59 but after i drive it for a bit a few weeks to enjoy it.

so i guess its bad news because of time, but good news because they'll be done by then in 20 days. being forced now but its a good thing now i can go full force with no breaks and get them done. i start tomorrow 8am

 

Good luck with it!

 

came up on another dealer record, this one I haven't seen before the "at work or play its Chevrolet". two are going in my 59 trunk as part of the upholstered display im making back there the "1959 Chevrolet dealer radio commercial" and the "see the u.s.a. in your Chevrolet" and the new one the "at work or play its Chevrolet" im putting in the 48 trunk upholstered display. been busting *** on both these cars, almost there. you guys will like how im doing the trunk :-D

 

i was having a problem with my starter, I had to use jumper cables to ground it from the base of the starter to the battery so it could work. took care of that today I took the starter off and sanded and filed the base of both the bell housing and the starter so now it grinds right. also took the springs off the hinges, ****s are a pain in the *** they messed with the aligning of the hood so ill take them off and just use the hand crank start bar to hold the hood up. opened the hood and jammed all these in the spring so it doesn't compress, close it alittle and I was able to take the spring off with my hand

also, this is the transmission "ball" right? where can I get the gasket and the lube for it?

finally got to polish up the windshield moldings and mirror and put them in






just ran out of light so ill take pics of it tomorrow put in. and tomorrow ill now work on the timing issue and hopefully have it figured out and driving by the end of the day =D

 

whats good is im getting ready to paint my 65, and the neighbors this weekend put up a wood fence. makes it way easier for me to paint now and the overspray the back of the fence will catch. I plan to paint way more cars back here


its a good thing, im blasting the hell out of my 65 with metal flake, 5 pounds of it and its going to get everywhere. I got it in the mail today and im getting the basecoat and clear tomorrow

 

Holy **** that's a lot of flake! What color you gonna paint it? Lace? Candy? Be sure to start a build thread on the 65 too.

 

How many gallons of clear does it take to bury five pounds of flake.




Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone

 

For the correct cork gasket for the trans find Patricks Stovebolts, little mom and pop shop-but they know more about those motors than most anybody!!! Also they are very nice people to deal with!!

 

well, turns out I got more than I need. I was TOLD I need 4-5 pounds to get the look I want, which is something like this













but turns out I just found out I wont even use half of that. im going to spray a matching blue base coat and then intercoat clear, which with a psi regulator hooked to an undercoating gun im going to shoot the flake onto the wet intercoat clear. I want to go two tone, the flakes are two different shades from the ones in the bag and the ones in the jars. so some parts darker blue, some lighter blue and some parts unflaked blue color. everybody was like whoa, are you flaking an rv? well no I just was misinformed and got too much. but its not that bad, look at what I got it for shipped



so I will be taking a new leap of faith, never sprayed metal flake but I have standard 2 stage paint down good, this shouldn't be hard its just an extra layer between the base coat and clear coat. but if I get it down, I will attempt this on the roof of my 59 with white and light blue flakes and lace





so well keep our fingers crossed the metal flake paint job on the 65 turns out great so I get the courage to do the 59. again will be a leap of faith, but all my builds so far have been nothing but that and so far so good =) and that would be awesome to feature on my build threads, cause you got to admit those lace flake jobs on the last two pics look awesome

 

and thanks dimebag, will do. looking them up right now actually thanks

 

I think it's great you try stuff youv'e never done, most people don't, good luck to you!

 

Right on man! I dig that look myself. I love when you can't see the paint through the flake.




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thanks guys, and yea my goal of understanding and knowing how to spray the metal flake is so I can do something like those lace and flake paint jobs, then it would be on! those paint jobs are works of art and id be able to get really creative with paint. one painter I highly admire is Larry Watson, a true custom car painter. the man was an artist. his cars were so creative and unique that they can be spotted a**** other cars at shows, a Watson car











he p***ed away july 20, 2010. but to be one day as creative and as great as he was is one of the things that inspires me. and If I can get painting down, and be able to custom paint, then I could really let my creativity run free. that's again why I been taking leaps of faith, no one to teach me but learning as I go from sources like you guys on here and online. and youtube can be a great teacher as well. for now my 65 will make a good test subject =b

 

pics of the windshield moldings during the day. finally put in got tired of seeing them laying on the floor. put in the s-16 spot light while I was at it

 

its a real working spotlight not a dummy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g69DYRMWrxo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdBXC6o1Bbg

[youtube]bdBXC6o1Bbg[/youtube]

[youtube]g69DYRMWrxo[/youtube]

 

It's looking very nice!

 

thanks ford deluxe. baby steps but alllmost there =D

got around to doing a job I been avoiding. when I put the rear fenders on I mocked them up only, the driver side rear fender I only hand tightened, the p***enger side rear fender was only being held on by two bolts because when I took them off all the other 8 bolts broke off on me. so since I plan to have the car driving by sunday I knew I couldn't drive it like that it would fall off so I got to work on it.
backed it up and put it up in the air


drill out the old broken bolts that were seized in by the rust, drill right through the middle and then tap the whole





threads came out so good when I put the new bolts in it went on so tight it bent the washers


then put back down, fenders are on for good nice and snug

had some time today, cleaned the horn up its a north east electric horn, original ahooga horn it has a distinct sound not like the repops




was going to paint it but think it looks better cleaned up with patina look. tomorrow FINALLY will get to work on the timing

 

I'm gonna come get a ride in that thing before too long. You better have it ready.

 

are you ever in so cal jefe? theres car shows here all year long. next big show come down, my cars will be ready, and youll like the shows out here. the next big one is in alittle over a month, mooneyes Christmas party in irwindale dec 8. or come down sometime for Pomona swapmeet

 

=) =) =)

 

This has been a great thread. I am getting a 48 Coupe soon not as nice as yours and your thread has been helping me to see what is expected.

 

thanks Carolina man. I like 40s coupes, they have a very sleek and smooth look the way the roof and trunk sweeps. yea just follow this thread and youll have an idea what to do on your own. get stuck anywhere just send me a message ill be happy to help

 

dd dd

 

Thanks I will.

 

Reyes- I was going to ask how those fender lips & bolt areas were on your ride. I know most of these cars they get 'crusty' real bad and I'm glad you were able to power through and get those drilled out. I snapped three off last year and gave up. I have to do some metalwork back there on mine, as well as replace the fender welting rubber. I may do that with confidence knowing you can do it with a little time, a drill and a tap. Not fun I'll bet, but you did it right. Nice job.

Keep us posted on the timing. Hope you can get it, and start rowing through the gears.

 

odds are you are going to break more of them, they are notorious for rusting and seizing causing the nut to break. you broke 3, odds are there are more to break. ok heres whats good news about that area of the car. the fender is not heavy at all, so the bolts holding it down aren't load bearing bolts. if you drill and tap, start with a smaller drill bit and drill right in the middle of the bolt and use that hole as a guide then drill with the right size bit that's right for the tap. even if youre not exacly centered you still will have some wiggle room because you will not just be drilling through the bolt but through the nut and Its a pretty wide nut. tapping it is easy, once it grips itll drive itself in and just keep tapping till theres no resistance.

option two and whats good news. if you open your trunk, if you broke the bolts, you can see about half an inch of it rising above the nut from inside the trunk.







you can get a monkey wrench or vice grips and once you get a lock on it turn it so itll screw all the way up into the trunk and come right out. same for the ones towards the front you can see them if you pull your bottom back seat out and rear armrest out. same process. the seat will lift right out and arm rest slide right out theyre not bolted or screwed down.













the last two on the lower front you cant reach theyre in the door jamb. except for the last bottom one. it is held on very weak and if you start drilling it the nut will break off and leave a nice 3/8 hole. the back of it I accessible from the bottom theres a drain hole. put a nut on the inside through the hole and with one finger line it up to the new hole and screw in a new bolt. once it grips just hold the nut with your finger so it doesn't spin and once it starts to tighten up the nut will grip on the rough metal on the inside and you can screw down tight.







option 3, and the easiest and quickest. mock up the fender with whatever bolts are left unbroken exactly how its going to go, even just 2 bolts will do the job. now once its set exactly, get a 3/8 drill bit or a bit smaller and drill a hole right through the fender and the body an inch to the right or left of each broken bolt and fender bolt hole. then take a 3/8 bolt and nut and screw it down. the whole inside is accessible from the trunk and inside of the car so you can have someone hold the nut with a crescent wrench while you tighten the bolt. will work with all the bolts except the 2nd and 3rd from the lower front that are in the door jamb but the first one will hold it down just right.

its a simple fix, trust me nobodys going to look to see if the bolts are correct or in the right place, with the interior in and the panels in the trunk youll never see them. I freaked out when I started breaking the bolts I felt I might have to weld the fender now because there was no way to bolt them down the nuts were inside the body unaccessible. theyre not and its an easy fix. hope that helps.

as for the timing, wasn't able to work on the 48 today had to do some work on the 59 I have to have that one done asap as well. and I work tomorrow and Saturday might go to vegas to see the fight but sunday im dedicating that day only to getting the motor tuned in =)

 

picture it with beauty rings, will look better with them on. but what do you guys think? and whats better chrome caps or black caps













with chrome caps

















again picture it with beauty rings. reason I might fly these is because theyre aftermarket but correct time period. and to be different nobody else has them

 

the box to them and instructions