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KBS Coatings - First time used.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 53 COE, Sep 23, 2013.

  1. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    Started with a rusty bare roof from spending its life outside in eastern Washington 50 some years. Did the CLR/scotchbrite patina treatment last Summer. Sanded with 150 grit DA for the bare metal look this Summer. Decided it was time to seal it this Fall.

    Started with an overnight soaking of Evapo-Rust to remove all visable traces of rust. Picked the "galvanized steel" color of RustSeal, after using the AquaKleen wash and RustBlast prep, following their instructions closely.

    Used a guide coat after the 2nd coat, and sanded with 320 grit to verify all traces of the rust pits had been filled. After 1 coat (shown wet below), could still see the pits, after 2 coats they were completely filled. Could have stopped at 2 coats. I am not saying like with a primer-surfacer they are filled and only smooth after you sand. This stuff flowed out and filled the minor imperfections on its own!

    For the 3rd and final coat, reduced it a bit more and did a double wet coat. It layed out nice and smooth and dried to kind of a flat metallic. Color matches the wheels anyway.... Thought the KBS products were very easy to use. Considered other products, but this was the most complete system and at a reasonable price.

    Pics show the progression over the last year:

    ;)
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 18, 2013
  2. Will have to keep this in mind when I go to paint mine.....looks good!
     
  3. So what did you use for a top coat ?
     
  4. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    RustSeal needs no top coat - I chose the "galvanized steel" color because they state it has enhanced UV stability in the paper catalog you can request for free. I saw first hand how it acts as a high build primer. Eventually the car will be painted, but this seals it for now.

    Their free catalog is worth getting - lots of good info in it while you are researching other products. Link to the catalog request to the right on this page. It also describes the "galvanized steel" color I chose on that page.

    I also have a pint of the BlackTop in satin to try in my engine compartment, firewall and fender liners when I have the engine out to do the bottom end.

    If you do place an order, get the paint spouts too - never had a paint can stay clean in the lip before - great little gizmo.

    ;)
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2013
  5. Oh, I saw this on their site and figured it needed a top coat.

    Please note that RustSeal is not intended for use as a final finish. Repeated or prolonged exposure to direct UV light will cause cosmetic alteration to its color and sheen. RustSeal’s guaranteed rust protective properties, however, will not degrade. In areas not exposed to direct UV light, like the underside of a car, RustSeal will seal as well as serve as a great looking final finish. To protect against unwanted cosmetic changes, topcoat RustSeal with any opaque (solid color) paint system. Please note that a clear topcoat cannot provide the needed UV protection. Choose the closest color associated RustSeal primer to compliment your topcoat and protect against potential visible surface chips.
     
  6. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    Most def if it's not on the undercarriage away from UV exposure, eventually I will want a top coat, but it is not required. My goal was to seal it so if it gets caught in the rain it's not a problemo. Heck around here in the Seattle area, we have been having a lot of wet foggy days. No worries then either, or if she needs a washing.

    Could have clear coated the bare metal, but then that would have to come back off before paint. I did spray bomb a couple worn thru places on the fender and door top edges, simply used Rust-Oleum satin clear for that.

    ;)
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2013

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