I'm currently working on a 32 frame. 4 inch droped axel, stock wish bone 283 sbc, 39 transmission, stock center cross member. I orginally planned on a F100 box, however I found a sweet 39 box( cross steer) with banjo wheel and lock, light switch intact and all working. I have every thing for the F100. I like the 39 best. Any suggestions??Can the 39 column be switched to the F100 box including the light switch and lock??
This survivor from the 50's uses the complete 39 banjo, column and box. It's mounted like a 39 (farther forward) and uses cross steering as the 39 did.
A friend had a 32 roadster with a complete 40 column and shift stuff and box. Ran a 331 Chrysler to a 40 LaSalle
No That car showed up at York one year. It was supposed to be a California hot rod survivor. It had 2005 pricing in 2002 and I don't think it sold. It was a typical 50's hot rod...solid but cobby around the edges. The complete 39 steering column including the 39 column drop was interesting to me.
F-100 shafts are hollow aren't they? The outer column housing could be removed from the '39 and slipped onto the F-100, but the length would be all wrong. Just cut the housing tube at the bottom to the correct length. But the horn/switch rod will be harder to cut and re-connect. I think attaching the switch housing to the bottom of the box may require a homemade flange and holder (replacement for the wire bail). You will probably need to shorten the shaft on the F-100 box anyway. Have a machinist shorten the end and put the correct taper and keyway on it at the same time to adapt the banjo wheel. The shaft lock is just a hole into the shaft. Carefull measurement of the '39 shaft and transfer of those to the F-100 should be easy to do. On the '32 I just did I used a '48ish F-1 box and a '34 horn ****on and rod. I didn't hook up the switch mechanism, but I did use the rod and horn wire. I cut the bottom 8" off the rod and now it just turns inside the shaft. My horn wire goes out the stock F-1 bottom-of-the-box plate. My F-1 shaft was shortened about 4".
I really like the idea of the complete original '39 installation. That is a good box, MUCH slicker than the early stuff but still reasonably fast ratio. A third path is available, too: Some have shortened the late box and mounted it sideways as a drag link system. This puts the pitman arm pointing UP, often a good thing with a dropped front.
Sorry to steal this tread but I'm wondering something on the same line. I have a 38 column and like the column lock and plan to retain the column drop switch and push ****on start but I'm going to a rack and pinion so I don't have a way of running the horn out the end of the box like usual. Anybody ever retroed a newer horn setup into an old column to retain the horn function?
A piss poor picture of my F-100 modified box for the 39 column keeping the lock system. There was a guy at the LA roadster show several years ago that modified the F-100 box for use in stock 32-34 Fords including the early H/L switch and horn ****on. An upgraded steering that kept the original look and function.
A couple reasons why I used the F-1 instead of the F-100 (I had both in the shed to choose from). 1. The F-1 will give you more clearance around the back end of a flatty in a '32 frame (and probably a SBC too). 2. The F-1 has the same diameter sector as a '32 so you can easily cut and switch the mounting casting ala Tardel. No need to cut the frame at all. 3. The F-1 has the same pitman arm as early Fords, so anything from '32 to '48 will bolt up. The F-100 is big and ugly. 4. The F-1 has a slim and trim column, not the large bell like an F-100 (but moot point if you're switching to a '39 column). 5. The guts of an F-1 are the same as '40 to '48 p***enger cars, and maybe '39's too. F-100 parts are F-100 only. The only bad thing about the F-1 box is the lower column will reduce your foot room slightly.
'37-48 Ford boxes are all the same, varying only in length of steering shaft and pitman arm. All Ford columns '32-48 plus F1 are same diameter, and lock widget on the actual shaft can be moved to suit whatever lock location you end up with. I think F1 shaft is same diameter, so could take early lock easily. Pitman arm interchageability is HUGE--that seems to have been a standard spline and size used by most or all USA makers and even some godless foreigners up into modern times on non-power steerings. Any arm you see in the junkyard that looks like it's that size probably is!
I talked with a guy that did it with a complicated set up consisting of rings and wiper contacts at the base of the tube. Same theory as the spring loaded horn ****on contact in a late model steering wheel. Too complicated for me. I shortened the horn rod and squeezed it into an egg shape so that it was a snug fit in the shaft hole strictly for looks, but still removable. A hidden horn ****on behind the dash lower edge will have to suffice for me.
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