I would like to get some thoughts on using some 3/4" tie rod ends on my panhard for the rear end of my model A project. I allready have several boxes of ends a 7 degree reamer and taps so no parts or tools to buy.I was planning to use apiece of 1" DOM tubing for the rod and threading it to accept the rod ends, I will be running ladder bars with coil overs along with the panhard bar.
I don't know what vehicles used 3/4" tie rods these were in some boxes of old stock parts my Dad gave me.
I've used tie rod ends on all kinds of suspension links including panhard bars. They are greaseable and a far better choice than rod ends. The tie rod ends I use are the tie rod ends that are used to split Ford wishbones. Speedway has them.
I have a old 1959 built rod with tie rod ends installed back then. A tie rod on a front end will get more stress than a P-bar will, IMO
Whatever you use, know the part # or application so you can replace it. I'm going through hell trying to figure out what tie rod ends someone used on my drag link. I have about 5 hours into it and the parts guy has been busy behind the scenes determining what was used.....one is coming in wed that he thinks will fit,the ones from Speedway that I ordered won't. I may have to make up a new drag link before it's all over & use readily available ones.
Part number is ES 150 application is Ford truck// You want the ES 150 R for right hand threads.. This was the part that was sold on kits to mount G M 350/400 transmission in 40 and like frame Fords when modifying the wishbone.. Before we knew about sperical rod ends we used them on sway bars and panhard bars..This was also used for years on many circle track applications. I have seen them used on traction bars. Speedway sell jam nuts. I hope this helps... Bobby
If you use tapered rod ends be sure to mount the bolt horizontally, so they have enough movement. The frame mounts to accept rod ends will be more work than a simple bolt on heim and a straight hole. Why not use Heim joints though? Much simpler, and easier to work with.
Unless a very high quality rod end is used, there will be problems with noise, lubrication and strength. A tie rod end is by far superior in all of those areas. I have to replace all 18 of the rod ends on my Legends car at least twice a season because of wear and slop.
I used a tie rod end at the rear end and a urethane bushing at the frame on my 32 Coupe 10 years ago. The rear suspension was triangulated ladder bars with first a leaf, then later coil overs. That set up worked well with both and was very quiet and no harshness, unlike rod ends. It is still on there and working well.
Although it makes it easier to adjust, you don't "NEED" right and left. In fact there are many panhard bars on cars that are adjustable on only one end (you just take one end off, adjust the length and put it back on), and many factory ones that are not adjustable at all.
Some Jeeps use what is essentially a tie rod end on the trac bars (panhard bars) on coil-sprung soild axles. They take some pretty heavy abuse off-road. I'm not sure exactly what parts you have, but I would not have any concerns with using a quality real-life-sized tie rod end on a panhard bar / trac bar. My $0.02 Pete
Someone posted a thread showing their use of a '39 Ford drag link for a rear panhard bar. Ingenious. They have an adjustable end and a part-of-the-bar end. Looks like it grew there. I'm going to steal the idea if I ever need a rear panhard bar, especially since I have a big stash of NOS '39 Ford drag links.
We use them all the time for our panhard kits for our Chevy 1/2 ton pickup housings. I'd rather use a tie rod than a heim on a street vehicle. Speedway/AFCO sells a tapered reamer, make sure you taper the attaching hole. Common threads are either 5/8" or 11/16", they sell taps for either application.
Thanks to all that replied, hope to have my ladder bars and panhard bar finished this weekend. I will try to post pictures soon.
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