I am planning on rebuilding a 235 I have myself rather than paying someone to do it. I was ***ured the engine was pulled running but better safe than sorry right? Ha. Anyway I was wondering if anyone had tips, tricks, suggestions or anything that would help me out. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I've never torn apart an engine before and I'm a bit apprehensive ha. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -Alex.
Have a clean, organized work area. Take your time! Also, triple check all of your tolerances. Never ***ume the machinist got it right. Do lots of research and ask lots of questions. Good luck! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Easy and fun engine to work on......very simple. First big decision will be to carefully inspect the head for cracks between the intake and exhaust valve seats. Very, very close inspection after cleaning would probably work, but you will have to balance the what if's with the expense of having it magnafluxed. With the above being said, find a good machine shop.....but.....don't be talked into spending all sorts of $$$$$ on blueprint type machining just so you can brag about all the trick machining you had done. Unless you are looking to compete at Bonneville....the money will be wasted. Get a good basic shop manual and for a little fun, get one of the readily available copied "hop up" guides by some of the 50-60's guys like McGurk.
Thanks fellas. I do have an original shop manual for the car so I'll be consulting that a lot Would the 3 speed from the original 216 work with the 235? As well as the rear end?
Get one of those inexpensive impact-type screwdrivers...the kind you hit with a hammer...to get the slotted screws out that hold the front plate on. Those screws are usually in there pretty tight, and it's easy to mess up the slot when trying to get 'em out with just a regular screwdriver.
try this basic steps in rebuilding 235. http://www.autoblueprint.com/1961_pages/61_235_engine_removal.html i used theses pages on my first rebuild it ways a 1958 chevy 235.
Also, don't use bolts to attach the valve cover. If I remember correctly, it's the p***enger-side holes that go directly into the water jacket...so if you use bolts and ever remove them when the engine is full of coolant, the coolant will start coming out the holes. Use studs installed with a bit of sealant and then nuts. The studs help to align the gasket and valve cover, and keep the coolant from pouring out. (and draining into the oil-drain holes in the head and into the crankcase!)
Thanks for all the advice fellas. Little update. I haven't had much time to work on it but I've managed to build a clean work bench/area and take the head off. On the first piston I can read 060 or 090. Pretty sure it's 060. I'm ***uming this means it was rebuilt at sometime? Or? Anything else I should look for?
Yes, it's been rebuilt...probably a couple of times. I'm not sure how far you can bore a 235 but .060 is the limit for a lot of engines. Somebody who knows better than me will be able to give you an idea about that. How do the bores look? Any scoring of the cylinders walls? How much of a ridge at the top?
.080 pistons used to be common for 235s, so it should still have a little meat left. I've seen them go .125 but, as they say at the end of weight loss commercials, previous outcomes do not guarantee similar results.
All good advice. Two quick thoughts I would add: 1. Be very careful installing the rear main seal. This is a common leak source. There seems to be some controversy regarding the new type seals vs. the old rope seals. 2. The front timing gear cover has two nuts and bolts that you need to drop the oil pan to access. A lot of people tap those two holes so they screw in from the outside like the rest of the bolts. don
May be too late to add, but do***ent your work with pictures and notes, so during the rebuild you won't wonder "where the heck did this go" and why do I have these parts left over.
Thanks. Bores don't look too bad, there's some minor scoring. The ridge looks to be about a 1/4 inch or so. I eyeballed it
1/4"? No...not how far down from the deck the ridge is...how deep is it? If you can catch it with your fingernail, you'll at least have to ridge ream and hone. Research the process. There are probably tutorials on Youtube. In fact, you should research the whole rebuild. It's difficult and time consuming to teach somebody every single step over the internet if they've never done it before. We can help you with the particulars of a 235 and give you general tips, but watching a bunch of videos of someone completely rebuilding an engine...almost any engine...will help you a lot to understand what's involved. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I can't catch my fingernail on it. I can feel that it's slightly rougher though. Also what do I need to look at in the bottom end? Ilt looks really really clean under there.
Doesn't sound too bad. What makes you think it needs a rebuild? Is it smoking a lot? Lots of Blowby? Knocking? Hmm...maybe what you should have done is run a compression check before you pulled the head. But hell, you're in it now so you may as well have fun. I'd be a little concerned about scoring in the cylinder walls. If you have the tools you can check taper and roundness in the bores. Sorry, I'm all over the map right now and the wife is calling me to dinner. I'll check back later.
TooCool... Patricks in Casa Grande would also be a great resource for you for the rebuild of your 235 and more - Good people. You didn't mention what your 235 is in, but they are very knowledgeable. http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/
Actually nothing. It came with my car. I just ***umed it needed a rebuild. It was on an engine stand. The original 216 in my car was already removed and is completely dis***embled. (1949 chevy) I can try and get a picture up of the cylinder walls, from pics that I've googled mine seem to be very minor.
Let us know your progress. Patrick is definitely a good source for parts and advice. Great customer service too. It looks like a solid candidate.
I believe so. Yeah I ran the engine number and it said it was a 54. Thanks. I'll have to check them out.
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