Just getting ready to start our next project engine swap and brake upgrade ,putting an extra 318/ auto that I got lying around into the panel .If any one has done this swap I could use some advise...
I had a 360 in my 52 for awhile but I put a 73 Plymouth Fury torsion bar front end in it so I didn't have to deal with front axle to oil pan clearance, and had power disc brakes with this setup. The 318 and torqueflite should fit with no major problems. The pan clearance and if your old front springs can handle the weight is all that comes to mind right now. Do a search and find the 1948-1960 Dodge/Fargo/Desoto truck & COE Mopar only picture thread. It's a good thread for our Dodge trucks. Show your stuff and there will be help there.
Ive done the swap with a 360 into a 57 not much difference in the frame/crossmembers, and a 360 is identical externally to a 318. The motor mounts I fabbed up using new late 70's truck mounts and a set of block hugger headers and everything clears just fine. Though if you want stock truck manifolds fit even tighter than the hugger headers.
I would like to keep the interior floor pan untouched ,I have no problem with modifying the rad area and moving a rad ?? Don't know what rad yet , my donor vehicle is a 1972 van ,I want to move the AC system which is an after market under dash style over to help keep the interior an momma cool on the cruises, I am thinking about trying to put a rack and pinion in and remove the gear box . How can I post pictures as I go ???
I noticed no master cylinder on MoparJoel did you put it under ,on the frame, I noticed your steering box is different its on the outside and in front of the axle mine is inside frame and behind axle , I think I will try a rackin pinion ,any thoughts
You don't want R&P with straight axle. To clear your steering box offset your engine like many factory Mopars were.
the driver side has some holes that where fixed ,this thing was a ex military vehicle makes ya wonder if that is bullet holes ?
The master cylinder is in the FACTORY location under the driver floorboard. Rack&P is going to be a pain in the ***. X2 Your steering box is pretty far back compared to mine the only clearance issue should be the starter and I agree you can offset it (Which almost all Mopars came like this) and if you have room up front move the engine forward if needed.
As said, there are plenty of Mopar v-8 swaps in this vintage truck. Here is one of my favorites: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=455737 .
I saw somewhere a disc brake conversion for the solid axle can someone help me with locating this info
Just got the donor vehicle home 1972 dodge van has only 68,000 km that's only 42,000 miles for you south of the border ,might also try to put the front fenders of of a 2ton truck that are wider might give it a cool look
Look at the front suspension of the donor as possible swap too. The first-gen Dodge Dakota pickup with the 5-lug hubs is a popular front stub swap, right frame width and bolt pattern.
X2 the van will work for motor, trans and old ball stuff but the suspension/frame will not work on these trucks. the wheels will be sticking way out. After 1960 Dodges all went really wide. A Dakota or Mid size truck fits the best.
Found a cool car bone yard in my area this guy has hundreds of cars ,and the best thing is it looks like he only sells whole vehicles www callingallcars.ca he has two that I want 1948 and a 1950 one ton
Might try to put a 1984 5th avenue front end under my 52 dodge panel ,anyone got any advise ,pics ???
There are much better options then the old 5th Ave K member. If you want to change the front end, 87-90 Dakotas work well, have the same wheel bolt pattern, and you can still use the truck as a truck. If you insist on using the 5th Ave k member, expect to cut off your frame, build new rails, make bumper and rad support brackets, cut a hole in your firewall the width and height of the motor (the back of a 318 sits 6" into the cab) and expect very sharp steering column angles. When you get done, it will ride nice, but will feel kind of mushy if you do any quick corners. Be sure you get the ride height you want when you attach your new frame rails to your original frame. The cross torsion bars are adjustable for height, they seem to loose that adjustment pretty fast if you have to raise the front end more then an inch. Answers, YES, I did one, mine was on a 54 pickup, same frame as your 52 panel. Yes we put 40,000 trouble free miles on it before I sold the truck. Yes, the ride and brakes were light years ahead of the beam axle. Yes, it was low and looked great. No, it was not fun going around curves above the little yellow suggested speed signs. And, finally, NO, I would not go through all the work involved to install another one under anything. I s****ped a complete unit about a year ago.
Just bought a complete dodge dakota 94 2wd truck it caught on fire but only around the battery area the frame is going to be my donor for my panel .
Are you planning on using the whole Dakota frame, or are you going to use the front clip? I used a whole Dakota frame under my 48 Plymouth coupe, it was more work repairing the coupe's rust then what the swap was. I suspect, under a panel, the whole frame might not be too hard. Would certainly be easier then using the whole frame under a car, though lifting the panel body off its original frame and moving it onto the Dakota frame might be an interesting project. Pictures of my coupe on the Dakota frame.
Might try to graft the frames to each other , the Dakota rear frame has a hump above the axle I don't want that so I will cut and join them , might try to cut off the Dakota spring hangers and fasten the whole axle to the old rear section of the frame . Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Dakota donor truck came with a 3.9L with an auto how do i identify what transmission it would have . I am wanting to maybe use it if it is an overdrive it burnt in the dash area so i cant identify the shifter pattern. I have a 1972 318 cid engine that i want to use, it currently is in a van with a 727 but I thought an overdrive would be nicer.
I think 93 or 94 was the first year. But 94 had overdrive for sure. Even the 92 and back trans would give better gas mileage than the 727. I think they are called 998. They have a lock up torque converter.
My 93 Dakota 4x4 has a v6 with an OD automatic, though the shift pattern only shows the standard drive, 2nd, low. There is a switch on the dash to turn off the OD. My V6 with a 3:55 rear gear goes down the highway at about 2100 rpm @ 60 or so mph. Mine is the overdrive version of the 904/998 (or whatever the small auto was. LOL!) Gene
Well I just got back at it got the 94Dakota donor on the hoist got the cab off and the frame separated , I cut the frame in between the first and second box support right before the rear axle spring mount. It's in this location that the frame starts to bend up for axle clearance , I am hoping to attempt to attach the 51 panel frame at this location,I don't want to alter the floor of the panel truck any so I might try to graft the two together or maybe ??. Anyone attempt this same job , the dakota rad support has a tag that says it has a A500 transmission and a 8.25 rear axle with 3.5 ratio I want to put a 72 318 maybe carb or aftermarket EFI for fuel management ,I want to hook up the transmission to automatically shift into lockup ,any advise on these issues would be greatly appreciated . Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
A guy north of here put a complete Volare front crossmember in his panel, same truck as yours. He said it was very close to a bolt-in. I might be able to get his ph. number if you want to talk to him. He's in east central Sask. Where in Manitoba are you??
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