Projects 1953 Buick Super.... 6 issues, little help?

Issues that I could use help on:

1. Water/coolant leak under dash on p***enger side, leaks when heater control is OFF, stops leaking when heater control is ON, drips onto new floor panel on p***enger side.

2. GAPS... these 53' Buicks seem to have major gap & sagging door issues, I'd like some guidance on which hinges to adjust on door, hood, trunk, fender, and which to leave alone... this car hasn't ever been wrecked, but gaps are way off. I'll post pics later today.

3. Engine runs strong but sometimes shuts off during first accelerator pump, don't know why, it's only during first gas pedal pump.

5. Right rear tire locks up when I brake, only right rear, new cylinders, not sure why, maybe I need to bleed that cylinder, any help or suggestions?

6. Steering wheel is to stiff and bouncy, NO power steering, so I'd like it to glide without noise of strain. (during my 6 full rotations just to make a turn, haha) What should I lube up or WD-40? (could it be my really old tires)

Any suggestions or advice greatly appreciated... whether it's help with 1 issue or all 6... I promise to post many pics later today.

 

issue 1 sounds like a heater control valve leak. it is a valve that shuts the flow of coolant through the core when you do not need heat.
issue 2 you should be able to get all the gaps to line up, but trying to explain the procedure without looking at it is hard. since the quarter panel doesn't move, start by getting the door to line up with it, then work your way forward, lining up panels as you go. on that car you will be able to move the panels both in and out and side by side.
issue 3 choke working properly?
issue 5 sounds like a brake adjustment...if drums, linings, hardware and backing plate are good.
issue 6 check steering box lube, grease front end, check front end components.
these ideas should be just a start.

 

issue 4....computer run out of ink?

 

Thanks for the suggestions... now I know where to start when fixing those gaps. You're right, multiple adjustment hinges forward, backward, in, out, etc. The hood is a real pain, wobbles when I open close it, like its about to snap off... but when its closed, its fine. Choke does need to be adjusted, old Stromberg 2- barrel carburetor, also, considering pulling the factory oil bath air cleaner and replacing with after market paper filter, any thoughts?

I posted one pic of the car taken tonight; I promise to post many pics tomorrow of these specific issues.... thanks again!

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lube the hood hinges. oil bath air cleaners do work, but i have converted a bunch of them to receive a paper element to make it less work. looks like a nice car.

 

Great Lookin Buick,As tb33anda3rd stated door adjustment are are made off the stationary lines from quarter and rocker panel. I always stand back look at those two lines and move the door in my mind then apply that adjustment to hinge, a floor jack can be helpful to support door. On a side note I would need more lights in your garage for working at night for these eyes! Keep the picture coming and enjoy the information the H.A.M.B. members can supply. Will you keep the straight 8?

 

Thanks for the info... and yes, will definitely keep that nailhead as long as it runs and drives; I love that g***er gargle those nailheads have. As for dynaslow, not sure. WILL post a few daytime pics today, keep posted.

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only straight 8 in '53 Buicks were the Special series, all others were nailheads.

 

As promised, MANY pics of my ongoing project. FYI, started terrace green, now bare metal (mostly), some metal work and body work and ready for epoxy primer. Questions, suggestions, comments greatly appreciated.

 

So now that I've posted some pics of the car, I had a question about chopping the top to make it a convertible... (remember, I'm very green when it comes to frame/ch***is stuff). IF I chop the top what kind of frame changes are necessary, reinforcements... stuff like that. I live in AZ and this time of year is PRIME cl***ic convertible weather.

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Nice project . old buicks are sweet

 

I would not cut the roof off, you will have more problems than door gaps!!
All that bare metal also I would be putting a wash primer then epoxy primer on that sooner rather than later also. Good Luck!

 

my advice is do what you want it's your car but I would go to some carshows and have a look at convertables and talk to the owners about their cars . Get info that way and ask some HAMB members with convertables what are the differences in the two body types . I believe that the convertables have a heavier frame and the inner body structures have more bracing around the rear of the cars . If you are going to do a convertable you will have to find a doner of that year anyways and you could see the similarities then . Thats is some solid looking Buick you have there 53 ' How are you stripping the car . It looks quite clean , however you are doing it !!

 

aw1950---> I appreciate the info, I've decided to keep the hardtop; convertible can wait until the next project. I stripped it slow and steady, first aircraft stripper, but didn't work well with original enamel; so instead I spent a full month with orbital sander and shop vac. (still learning as I go) Your pictures from the headlight eyebrow and mustache area repairs help a TON; that's my next project to tackle. Every day I'm peeling back new issues to address; I know you can relate... I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

Glad my thread could help out with your Buick . Post some more pics . when you get a chance ! Andy

 

Door hinges... check for worn hinge pins, don't waste your time trying to adjust worn out hinges. Replace hinge pins and bushings if necessary. Remove latch pin and adjust door. Do the body bolts first to fit the door to the body opening then the door bolts to fit in and out. Finally fit the latch so the door closes perfect. There are other details to it but that is the idea.

Don't mess with the air filter. Take the lid off and check the oil reservoir. If it is less than half full of dirt and mud, top up the oil with 50 wt and leave it.

If it is full of dirt or somebody put in light oil, take off the breather, dump out the oil and wipe clean with old rags or cotton waste. Take the filter part and swish in a pan of gas, kerosene or cleaning solvent ( can use Varsol but hardware store paint thinner is cheaper).

Let the filter drip dry, do not blow air thru it or you will make holes and channels for unfiltered air to go thru. Put the bottom part back on the car, fill to the line with 50wt, pour a little oil into the filter and stick it back on. You can check at every oil change but you should not need to do this again for 2 to 10 years. Maybe once a year if you drive on real dusty desert roads. As long as there is oil in the base and it is not full of dirt you are good to go.

To me this is easier and cheaper than converting to a paper filter and buying new ones all the time.

 

It's not a "convertible" unless it has a top.......one that either folds or can be taken off and put back on.

 

53 BuickAZ, your car looks to be in nice condition. Those 50's Buicks with their nailheads and m***ive grilles are are just "super", well, like your ride. Good luck.

 

Hnstray: ok, got it... I guess I meant to say "chopped top" vs "convertible"... that plan is out for now, gonna keep the hardtop. Maybe down the road, when I can afford it, I'll buy myself the 54' Skylark that I've always wanted.

Gary: thanks for the motivating words; i'll be sure to post more pics soon.

 

Made a rookie mistake, need help!! I forgot take a very close picture of the wiring configuration of the ignition coil, resistor, and condenser. (322 nailhead, the resistor & condenser are bolted on the coil with brackets)

My car hasn't started since I disconnected the wiring on the ignition coil to replace it. Once replaced I hit the ignition ****on a few times with no luck, I then looked at the engine and there was very light smoke coming from the resistor... I touched it, and sure enough, hot as hell. Also touched the coil and condenser, not hot.

I have a bad feeling that I messed the wiring up during reconnection. Please help with this wiring issue. I have attached a couple pictures; 1st showing closest pic I have when wiring was correct; 2nd & 3rd showing the loose wires now.

 

What end of Phoenix are you at?

 

Tried to start engine a few times yesterday.. this time resistor got RED hot and was smoking... which concerns me cause its location is directly under fuel line/filter. When the car started fine, I don't remember the resistor smoking. See pics...


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Tried to start engine a few times yesterday.. this time resistor got RED hot and was smoking... which concerns me cause its location is directly under fuel line/filter. When the car started fine, I don't remember the resistor smoking. See pics...


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When you get back to aligning the door and body gaps, remember that being built in '53 this car is still fairly early for a hardtop model. Things tend to flex and settle and sag in a lot of different places over the course of 60 years. Even when new it likely didn't have door and panel gaps like a Lexus or something similar. Try not to make yourself too nuts over it.

You've gotten some good advice so far to get you started on this job. But have you checked the condition of the body to frame mount cushions? If they need changing do it now before getting too serious about adjusting the door and panel fitments, or you may be doing a lot of the work twice. Especially from the cowl forward.

 

Sounds like you have a dead short on the resistor. Maybe the points not opening or check where the power goes through the side of the dist body. If there is a "plastic" bushing thing where the wire connects on the side of the dist those sometimes break up and cause a short.

 

Claymart: good call, I do need to change the body to frame mounts at some point. Still trying to decide if I wanna upgrade frame & suspension, or just refurb existing frame.

JohnEvans: I think you're 100% right... I did mess w/ points and dist... something is not working right since. I'm pretty sure I changed the points correctly, gap at .015. I retrace my steps today, really starting to frustrate me.

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As far as oil-bath air cleaners go (and I'm probably just p***ing on gossip here), I was always told that they worked better than element cleaners, but they discontinued them to sell more elements. One of those "Evil-Car-Corp." stories.

 

It sounds like you have the normal getting an old car on the road things to take care of that all of us fight but nothing that should be that hard to take care of.

 

Mr48Chevy: Thanks for all the help... you're absolutely right, slow and steady.... I'll eventually handle each of these issues in time. I'll continue to post pics....

 

Are you sure that's the ignition ballast resistor? I can't say that I've seen everything but I CAN say I've never seen one like that before. And any pictures I found online after a quick search show the replacement resistor being a pretty common looking white ceramic block affair. And since they were designed to get hot they were often mounted on the firewall or fender skirt or someplace that would allow for a little air to circulate around them.

Maybe it's a resistor for the instrument cluster or something else. Or maybe not. What do I know?