Hi all, I have a 55 Chrysler new yorker deluxe. The 331 hemi has a few issues and the block is the only thing still bolted in the engine bay. I believe that it is a 6v positive ground system. I want a way to power up the electric windows and check all the bulbs etc. What would be the easiest and most cost effective way to bypass the generator and just run it from a 6v battery. Thanks all in advance for any and all info that comes my way. thanks, Douglas Johnson "Skrach" www.VividlyVintage.com
Nothing to do with the generator. It should get power from the main battery cable at some area, like the starter or a starter relay if it had one. I have a 50-56 wire diagram book made by MotoRs, at my shop. I can look it up if you can't get the answer here
or...go to Tractor Supply and get their BIG 6 volt battery. I just went there today for a 6v batt. the kid said: "no, I looked for another customer earlier this week, and we don't seem to carry 6 volts". Well, I guess he was wrong, as i saw one honking big one on the bottom shelf with 3 caps. I told him 3 caps is 6v. This batt is wicked heavy and pretty high CCA. 13" long x 7" wide. It cranked this beast pretty good, and i got it to run this afternoon, after years of storage
yes....do think it's pos ground....with the post that said-yes just hook a battery up and turn the key on to check stuff out...unhook the coil as to not burn up those points....and yes a good heavy 6v should do it...they also make a 8v battery that a stock 6v generator can be set to charge... lwf
That is one gorgeous car. That was the time to live! thanks, Douglas Johnson "Skrach" www.VividlyVintage.com
55 was the last year for 6volt I believe. There should be a relay on the inner fender that runs to the battery and starter. If you hook a 6volt battery up everything should have power. I would convert it to 12volt it was easy on my 55 dodge and I working on doing it to my wife's 55 desoto.
Thanks guys! I have a plan now. Yeah upgrading to 12V would be nice and is in the future of the build. 56 Chrysler 12V parts do convert it easily but its the lack of finding parts in my area that someone doesn't want unrealistic big bucks for it.
Yes please double check the wiring diagram if it isn't too much trouble. Although 56 was when they changed to 12v, not sure if the diagram changed other than thicker gauge wire or something like that. But either way, I would be in better shape than I am now with a huge ?! Above my head lol. thanks guys!
I will check that out mañana and see. I am sure they would put the relay in the same spot or at least near by. The hamb always comes through! thanks, Doug
12v cars have thinner wiring. That was one of the advantages, cheap wiring. Cars were getting more complex with power windows etc and took a lot more wire than the old jobs. You could use a 6 volt battery or, get away with a 12v if you don't power things too long. Just hit the window switch for a few seconds and see if it works. In fact I have put a 12v battery in a 6v car just for that purpose, the extra juice will sometimes wake up devices that won't work on 6 anymore. Just don't overheat and burn them out, if they don't go in a few secs cut the juice.
I am afraid of burning up the components. I will stick with a 6v battery for now. The windows on the 55 mopars were electric or hydraulic? I haven't popped the door panel off to see yet.. thanks, Doug
Converting these cars to 12 volts is a pretty expensive proposition, since they have a LOT of motors in them. One in each door for the windows, two under the seat, one for the heater, one for the defroster, windshield wiper. On these cars the option of converting to 12 volts is a little more involved than on most, because of Mother Mopars decision to use that funky power steering pump that is mounted on the back of the generator. You could get a 12-volt generator from another Mopar with the pump drive on it, or you could do like I did and run an alternator and a reduced pressure (700 psi) pump mounted in a more "traditional" location. I used a pump from an early 90's Buick, with a remote reservoir. If you do go the 12-volt route but need to keep all the 6-volt motors, I'd highly recommend finding a 12 to 6 volt solid state reducer like the one in the below link. You may need more than one due to the higher current requirements of those 6-volt motors. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Reducer-Regulator-12-VOLTS-to-6-VOLTS-20-AMPS-/131034821032
Thanks Ebbs. That's great info and a nice drop down volt reducer. thanks, Douglas Johnson "Skrach" www.VividlyVintage.com
Hi Skrach! I was surprised while looking thru new posts to find someone on the HAMB with a '55 Chrysler! Always a hot rodder from my youth, I fell in love with the mid -'50s Chryslers and particularly Imperials. I've owned (2) 55s, (2)56s and my last was a pink '57 Crown Imp. I brought a Ron Francis wire kit for the first 55 (6V) but never went through installing it. I scrounged window motors and tail lights where ever I could find them. Imperial gunsight taillights for the 50's are all one year only. A good source for all '50s Chryslers is someone you may know: Lowell Howe in Patterson,CA (209) 892-3464 Not sure if he is still in biz or even still alive, as he was talking about retiring 15-20 years ago while I was in my Hemi fin car phase. He used to advertise in Hemmings. Strange coincidence you live in "obscure" San Lorenzo. I worked for an optical instrument company in San Leandro for several years and lived in Hayward. Good friend of mine may still live on Paseo Del Campo in S.L. Master Machinist and hot rodder, you may see him putt his yellow 32 pickup around town. Small world on this internet thang! Love them old Hemis and Chryslers. (But those rotting fabric covered wires were always the biggest pain in the A** )
One quick, and safe method to learn the polarity is to connect the battery, and turn on the headlights. Watch which way the ammeter moves. if it swings to the + side, the battery is backward. if it swings to the - (discharge) side, you have it connected correctly. The lights are not polarity sensitive, so there's no risk of component damage. 4TTRUK
You could mount a small alternator low down on the engine, leave the stock generator in place to drive the PS pump and take out the brushes. Or get a 12 volt generator with the long shaft. I believe an auto electric shop can convert your gen to 12v by replacing the field coils. Or, easiest answer, leave it 6V. It will work fine if everything is in good shape. You could convert the engine to 6V and leave everything else 12V with a center tap off the battery for 6V.
Rusty>>>center tap off the battery for 6V. >>> You & I both know that's a no-no, Rusty! Since all the cells are series connected. However, I did it anyway back in the day with no immediately obvious problems. 8^) Jack E/NJ <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I have a 55 New Yorker that I switched to 8 Volts. All that was necessary was to buy a 8 volt battery and re-set the regulator out put tp 9.3 volts. The reason that I went 8 volts is that I had a 55 in 1957 and had starting problems all the time which I finnaly cured by using two 6 volt batteres in parrell. However I thought that 8 volt would cure my new car that I bought a few years ago, and I could keep the original radio which is pos. ground. Big mistake!!! There is a reason why nobody uses an AM radio today. The programs SUCK! My advice to you is to buy a 12 volt battery and install a 1956 chrysler generator, (neg. ground) switch all bulbs, keep the 6 volt starter, throw away the dual points and buy a 12 volt Petronics pick up, get a nice FM CD player and enjoy ! (You can get your 55 generator rewound to 12 volts if you want to) You can run the heater on low if you prefer and the windows will go up faster on 12volts . PS, low voltage (4 or 5 volts)will burn out a motor faster than high voltage. If you want to run halogen headlights, you will have to install relays on the wires going to the headlights. The circut breaker in the headlight switch will shut off if you dont.
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