Just dragged home a new project this week. 1950 Chevy bel air 4 door. I have a few questions. I need to replace the rope seal for the real main seal. Is this possible without pulling the motor? I have a 217 (216?) six with a three speed. If I have to pull the motor should I find a 235 to swap in for more power at highway speeds? I would like to keep it a six with multi carbs. I have thought about a t-5 swap. Can I convert the closed drive line without swapping the rear end? Last one for now. If I convert to 12 volt, does it matter if I switch to negative ground? The car is set up positive ground. Will switching affect the rest of the system because of the negative ground? I searched the threads and didn't find all my answers. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Don't know a thing about chevy six's someone else will be along shortly to answer that question. I can however help with the 12v to 6v conversion. Switching from positive to negative ground is not an issue, thats how all the 6v to 12v conversations are done. Theirs lot on the HAMB to read about this, so I won't rehash that, just search for 6v to 12v conversion. While some parts care about polarity, most don't. And while I won't tell you to not make the switch, do think about it. A properly set up 6v car will work just fine to start and go down the road. The 6v system amplifys any problems with the starting system and the motor, if everything is Ok it'll work just fine. Personally the only reason I switched my truck over was because I was completely rewiring from.
The rear main seal can be replaced with the engine in the car. There is a tool that resembles a Chinese finger trap made of wire, you use it to pull the seal into place. The original engine had babbitt bearings and low pressure "spit and hope" oiling system. Driving over 60 is asking for a blown motor. 50 would be safer. For hiway driving you need a newer motor with full pressure oiling and insert bearings, 1953 or newer. If you change the trans you will need to change the rear axle. The old one can't be converted. Would suggest keeping the original engine. If you want to swap, a 235 or a 261 truck six will bolt in. So will a 63 or newer 230, 250 or 292 with a little more effort. A V8 will fit too, but could be too much for the original rear axle and trans. If you want a V8 you pretty well need to replace the whole drive train. It all depends how far you want to go, in more ways than one.
Go to a full pressure '54 and up 235, 261, etc. You could also go with the 194,230.250.292 engine family and get conveniences like modern bell housing bolt pattern, HEI distribuotrs, etc. That babbit rod 216 isn't a good motor to have if you actually plan to put any miles on the car.
This has been helpful. I am thinking if the 6v conversion down the road only because it will be easier to use modern conveniences like charging my phone or gps. I had read several threads about the conversion but did not see the polarity issue addressed. I guess if it isn't a big deal that would explain it. I think I understand the motor issue now. I will look for a newer six. The t-5 will have to wait till the remodel is done on the house if I want to live. I am building this car in remembrance of my brother. He p***ed a few weeks ago and we are unsure of the cir***stances surrounding his injury. He always liked 40s-50s cars and I thought it would be a good outlet for nervous energy. I am more of a 60s low and slow kinda car guy, so some of the issues like 6v and older oil systems I am less familiar with, except on my farmall tractor
I have an old '47 216 Babbitt sprayer and it has over 120,000 miles on it and still does what it was supposed to do. It has dual carburetors, headers, an HEI and a cam and valve train kit. I do change the oil every month and service the cooling system every year. No complaints here. I do have a 261 in another car and it too is a great performer. Normbc9
I'm confused, my old 6V chevys were all negative ground. Are you positive it's positive ground? my 2 ¢ .bjb
That is how it is hooked up jokester. I don't have a service manual to confirm it. Anybody know for sure?
Just did some digging around on Internet. Seems that several people have had their Chevys hooked up positive ground. General consensus is that Chevys were never positive ground.
My 40 chev is positive ground. Pretty sure it came stock that way. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
All the 6 volt Chevys I've seen were negative ground.Not to say I've seen them all. GMC's were positive ground. By re polarizing the generator,swap the wires ona amp meter and sometimes a different voltage regulator,it'll be ok either way.
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