How do you remove rear brake drums on a 50 Chrysler

What Carl said in #28 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

4TTRUK

 

Not to play the repeater here...but PLEASE be sure you leave that axle nut on there (albeit loose) when pounding on this thing with a hammer. I am sure you would rather spend your money on fixing cars than fixing your face when that thing finally lets go. The drum/puller will come off with a vengeance and your face won't hold up really well in a battle with heavy cast iron....

 

X2
Put the pressure on it and be patient. Crank it down good and tight and leave it . I've had them pop off overnight!

 

Carquest 97 bucks will be here tomorrow

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I will try Friday morning before work or just let it sit but might wait until Sunday think there's a show Saturday

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Thanks I'll keep you posted how it turns out lol

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I'm also looking a rear driver drum the guy that got the other one off bent it up bad I need a new one

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

if you were closer, we would come over and loosen it up for you

 

Bwhahha yep I heard about the shooting the hub story lol

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

perhaps you need a bigger hammer?

 

No **** right lol

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Never would of thought to look local - storage case and all.....



I see that Mac on eBay didn't sell and is still available for anyone else looking for a beast of a tool:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/hub-puller-brake-drum-puller-NOS-by-MAC-/331060034441?vxp=mtr#ht_21wt_924

 

Yep next day shipping free I couldn't turn it down

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

The first times I pulled the drums off of my '56 Plymouth and '55 Desoto, I used a hub puller similar to that posted before, but it's got a hex drive on the end to use with a 3/4" socket and impact gun. Instead of wailing on the drum with a hammer, I'd tighten the puller down to keep a decent amount of pressure on it (keeping the axle loose but threaded on to keep the drum from flying off, as has been said before), then heat the center of the drum up with a torch until the drum popped loose. It's worked like a charm on the most stubborn of drums. I also make sure to clean the axle and inside of the drum where it goes up onto it to get any rust, grease, or dirt off, and every time I've pulled the drums off later to service or check the brakes it's been a little less of a pain to get them to come loose.

 

Cool thanks for the info

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I think you will find its anti-climatic. Mine sure popped of easy with the right puller, but was expecting much worse from reading threads here.

 

those drums freeze on the taper shaft pretty good some times. the puller should do the job if not add a little heat as you turn the puller handle it should pop.

 

Did the brakes and axle bearings/seals on my 54 Chrysler about 10 years ago. Man that was easy and hard. The left side came apart with just my pulling on the drum and the axle too. The right side, not sooo much! I used the 3 legged puller, and after pounding the hammerhead tight and applying heat to the center of the drum I was just about ready to quit, and I hit the axle nut once with the sledge, and it finally came off. The axle shaft was even more difficult. I built a puller that would use the axle nut to pull the axle shaft and bearing. After 3 days of hell, I put an 8 foot piece of pipe on my breaker bar and tried it one more time. Believe it or not it broke loose. After getting it apart and having new bearings installed on axle shafts, I started to re install the parts, only to find out that Bernbaum sold me the wrong wheel cylinders. He refunded the money, and I ordered from Kanter, which fit fine.

I have the same setup on my Hudson Superjet, and Willys Aero-Eagle. I don't even want to think about how bad that job is going to be with those.

 

I picked the puller up today does anyone have a driver rear drum

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Popped right off thanks for all the help

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Dude - Jack stands...

 

There's one on the other side of the jack

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

The right tool for the job!

 

Had a similar problem on a customer's '49 Plymouth. I ground down and punched out the rivets, one-at-a-time, and tapped the hole. Then I pulled the guide pin, and tapped that hole, too. I replaced the rivets with ****on head allen screws, and the guide pin with a cut off bolt. Now the drum can be removed without pulling the hub:

 

I didn't know if I could repair my drum because its seems to be almost impossible to find another drum

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Yeah, they are getting scarce. I have been telling my DCPD customers that Ford 8.8 swaps are in order, at the first sign or rear axle/brake trouble.

 

Dude that is funny as hell!

 

Looks like that rear is set up real nice - and such simple brake spring design. I would be keeping it for sure. How about some pics of the whole car?