oil around spark plugs flat head

I would do a full oil change, but start with maybe 1/2 quart of MMO to start. I imagine you will also be burning a little bit until the rings get unstuck and stuff, or leaking. As the oil gets burned or leaked out, just finish adding the quart, then do an oil change with fresh oil.

From MMO website

How much MMO do I add to the crankcase?
Marvel recommends replacing between 10 and 25 percent of your motor oil with MMO. For example, if the crankcase capacity is 5-quarts, add 4 quarts of your favorite motor oil and one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. If you get your oil changed at a “quick-lube” facility, bring a quart of Marvel with you and ask them to add it to your engine in lieu of one quart of traditional motor oil.
Can MMO be used with synthetic motor oils?
Yes, MMO is compatible with synthetic, semi-synthetic blends and regular types of motor oils.
Can I use MMO to replace all of my regular engine oil?
No, you cannot use MMO to replace all the oil in the crankcase. The maximum amount of MMO to be used is 25% of crankcase capacity.

 

Thanks for the infor

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With that much oil on the plugs broken pistons are a possibility. I would at least do a compression test wet and dry or maybe just take the head off and look inside.

 

i dont think nothing is broke theres not a knock,tick, or nothing sounds like a new motor just the smoke

 

You're not going to hear a tick or click if there is too much clearance somewhere. Do the compression test and it should maybe guide you towards the problem.

 

Those old Chrysler flatheads are foolers. They can start and run quietly when in an advanced state of wear. This is one reason people think they are not powerful, they can be worn out and give no sign.

Compression pressure should be 120 PSI on all cylinders. Anything below 100 is cause for concern. But as long as all cylinders are the same or close to it your engine is not too bad.

I will bet none of your cylinders have the full 120 and some of your cylinders have no compression at all.

 

ok thanks ill see where i can take it to get checked

 

If you can pull plugs, you can do a compression test. Go buy a tester, read the directions, and get er done.

 

yep thats what im gonna do

 

Carquest to the rescue again....

 

Yep yep lol

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Looking today the smoke isn't coming out of the exhaust there's a small pipe beside the exhaust manifold face the ground that's where most of the smoke is coming I put a quart of mmo in it

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Blow-by...........

 

That's your road draft tube. Before the PCV systems the cars have on them now, the crankcase oil vapors would be pulled out this tube as the car went down the and into the air and roadway. If the vapors are of a significant amount, you've got some internal wear or damage from the rings or valves, or both. In one of your previous posts you said that the oil was black. Either it hadn't been changed in a long time, or it's loaded with carbon from blow-by.

 

Its been sitting and hasn't been drove in a long time .......the spark plug with the most oil around it or today I saw bubbling around bit was the last one closest to the firewall

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Also I have autolite plugs some told me that I should only run j series in this car

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If you're seeing "bubbling" around the spark plug, the plug isn't fitting and /or seated properly. Back to the very first suggestion you were given!

My '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383

 

People on here are giving you all sorts of excellent suggestions and you seem to be looking for some sort of magic elixir to cure the problem. If you have oil ''bubbling'' around the spark plug, you have a problem. I don't see anywhere where the compression test was done. Do that test and then let us know the results or get someone to do it for you.

 

I'm not looking no magic elixir to cure or fix anything I'm just asking questions to see the most common way or best way to fix my problem I'm a hands on person and I like doing things myself that's why I have been asking telling what's going on I know the compression test and I'm doing that this week but I was think more in the area of I got the wrong plugs

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Without checking an application chart I have no idea what plug belongs in that old flathead Mopar and I don't have a chart to cover it. However, I do know from personal experience with an old '37 Plymouth my Mother made it thru the WW2 years and beyond with that they will run forever. That one was the first car I ever drove and used oil so bad that we had a gas station saving used oil from oil changes on customer's cars who changed often, and we poured it in that old Ply. for years and it just kept on keeping on while appearing to be "spraying for *****ers". Finally it jumped time, quit, and became yard art and a storage shed.
I can tell you for certain that no spark plug is gonna fix that engine, and neither is MMO or anything else but a rebuild. Quit wasting your time and money on gimcrackerey and start finding someone to do it for you, because you don't, Im sorry to say, appear to have the foggiest notion of how to DIY the job.

 

Oh I know I can't rebuild a motor or anything crazy like that but almost everything else I can this isn't my first car or only car just my first 50 model

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I just wanted to reply again and re***ure you that you don't need to consider a complete rebuild at this time. the MMO will loosen up anything that is stuck if it can be unstuck without tearing down.

The reality is that an engine with a lot of years and not a lot of time running is going to get stuck up. Since it's the farthest back cylinder, I would suggest that the p***ages that allow drain back to the oil pan is slow/clogged. MMO will break down that sludge and let oil drain back better.

I repeat the rule of least invasive method first. Continue heat cycles and driving. Clean the plug as it fouls. I would not consider doing anything else until you have run at least 500 miles on oil and MMO and an oil change. It probably wouldn't hurt to put an engine flush treatment right before draining the dirty oil.

After the MMO clean and maybe engine oil flush treatment, THEN consider checking compression. There might be damage internally but I wouldn't bother opening it up until you have done much less invasive work.

Small steps, buddy.

 

My 318 Poly in the '62 wagon also has some serious blow-by. Got it running after sitting a couple decades and right off an exhaust valve stuck wide open. Had the heads done thinking that was worth a try. Been running MMO in the oil and gas for 1,000 miles - still lots of blow-by - spits up 1 quart of oil every 500 miles. So looks like bottom end will have to be done. She does not smoke out the exhaust really though.

I am running Shell Rotella T 15W/40 diesel engine oil in the Poly and the 472 Cadillac in the COE. Also tried Castrol 5W/50 cl***ic car oil, but I saw it first hand it create leaks in both engines (synthetic). So went back to good ol' dino Rotella T - still high in zinc - and priced right.

Here's what MMO consists of:

 

Thanks a lot that's what I'm gonna do for now still haven't took it down the road yet waiting on a part before I can do that but I have been letting it run for about 30 mins a day I'm gonna put different plugs in it to see if they seat better and try another oil change. With the couple times I've let it run the oil is already getting a little dark

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Thanks for the info

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I would think a compression test would give you a good idea as to the condition of your pistons and rings. Not uncommon for these engines to break the top rig then the piston above it, and keep running nice and smooth. You need to dump the champions and get som AC 45's or maybe one or two heat ranges higher than those. Do your compression check then hook up a vacuum gauge and see what kind of reading you get.

Do you get a lot of vapor out of the oil fill breather after running for some time??

 

nope just smoke light smoke out of the exhaust...and 3 of the 6 plugs have alittle oil..the worst is the one near the firewall

 

If I had the car, I would drive it and change oil a few more times. In the past, I would have used Valvoline racing oil in a straight 40W because it cleaned extremely well and would not foul plugs. I don't know if the modern multi viscosity version works as well. If it doesn't foul the plugs in a short time, it can't be pushing a lot of oil. The rings could be stuck and a couple cylinder walls might have had some rust because some valves were open when the motor sat so the rings might not seal as tightly. It might get better as it wears in. If it gets worse you can deal with it then.

 

Thanks

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got some champion 592's plugs today what should i torque them too