I built a '58 Chevy pickup for my dad that I finished a couple of years ago. We flipped the front axle on top of the leaf springs to lower the truck, and we mounted a mid 70's Chevy pickup box outside of the frame rails actuated by a small drag link that was parallel to the frame rails. Because of the angle that the drag link was at, and the short (8") length of the drag link, the steering was very erratic. I figured there had to be a better way, and cross steering was the answer. I have used cross steering on numerous straight axle vehicles with great results, and this one turned out great as well, the steering is nice and smooth with no bump steer or twitchiness to speak of. I was on my own as far a a pitman arm was concerned. The steering box I was using used a pinch bolt to tighten the pitman arm to the sector shaft. I turned the pitman arm round on a lathe, and TIG welded it on the inside of a small piece of 3/8" wall thickness 2 1/2" O.D. D.O.M. tubing. The pitman arm was then welded to the tubing and gusseted for strength: The steering arm on the right side spindle is a Speedway Motors bolt on piece that I shortened, and re-drilled for the 7 degree Ford tie rod taper. I also welded on an extra tab for strength: The drag link is a piece 41" long x of 1 1/4" O.D. x .120" wall D.O.M. round tubing with Ford tie rod sleeves welded in:
That's an interesting way to do it.... The 4x4s use that steering box with the clamp on pitman arm. the 2 wheel drive trucks have a normal one with splines and a nut, and you can clock it every 90 degrees very easily. They were used in the 70s and 80s.
This box was indeed off a 4 x 4 truck. I found it easier to fab up a pitman arm than to get a box with the bolt on pitman arm. I would have had to bend the pitman arm and shorten it to clear the frame as well for this application, so custom made was easier.
The pinch bolt on the pitman arm appears to be rubbing on the bottom of the frame. Is it just the angle of the camera?
It's close, but that is actually as far as the steering goes. I had to slightly machine the head of the bolt for clearance.
After a full day of driving the truck yesterday, I am proud to announce that the conversion was a 100 percent success. There is no hint of bump steer at all, it is like driving a completely different truck. I gave a buddy of mine a ride in it and he said, "Yeah, I am definitely going to install a clip in my '57 like you did." He had no idea that the old beam axle and leaf springs were still under the truck.
I'm just trying to make a blue print in my head of how your cross steering set up is configured. If I understand the cross steer correctly, you have a tie rod running from your pitman arm across to the lower front mount on the p***enger side wheel and then another tie rod from the rear lower mounts on either side? You wouldn't by any chance have a picture of the entire thing from side to side would you? And did you use a stock tie rod with ends for the lower tie rod? I tried to send this to you in a PM but your inbox is over flowing.
Drive 'em, I suggest a lot of times that a cross steer setup is a good diea. I am not sure that the its not trad fellas can say much, my '38 Ford is cross steer from the factory. That has no bearing on anything in this thread, it is just information. Got a question, I can see that it is a saginaw box, is it the same box you originally used with the drag link setup? And why was the pitman arm an issue, was it a size/clearance issue? Looks good and clean by the way and you have proven that it works. Good for you.
would you happen to have a picture of the bracket you made to fit on the p***enger side spindle for the upper tie rod to mount to?
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