Power Steering for stock '41 chevy car???

Only advise I have is find out every thing about a rack conversion. Especially tie rod geometry. Pump steer is a very problematic thing that happen's with such conversion's. Just my 2 cent's 41.

 

Yeah, Johnny, my ignorance of racks is extensive! However, a successful rack installation would sure solve the tight clearance on the driver's side of a 350. That would be a good thing!

Surely someone has done this on a '41-'48 Chevie.

 

Well, after all the thoughts, experiences and suggestions you guys gave, I decided to go with the Saginaw 605. We are in the process of installing a 350 Vortec, all syncro Saginaw 3-spd Overdrive, '56 Chevie 3.55 rearend and a Saginaw 605 power box. We moved the 605 back and extended the pitman arm and will be using rams horn manifolds. I'll let you know how it all works out.

Thanks, guys,
Gaither

 

^^^^^ Looking forward to the future post's.

 

Good post. I have a 41 Chevy special deluxe.i think my shocks went bad. I can bounce my front up and down,which doesn't feel bad on flat roads.when I drive on streets that have dips it feels like I am bottoming out.i was considering changeling to tube shocks.has anybody done this.i was happy with ride before the original shocks went bad.

 

This whole thread and nobody suggested using a '54 Chevy power steering unit?

They're not the easiest to find, but it would be a 100% bolt on swap.

As for the guy who bumped this post instead of making a new thread, why not rebuild the existing shocks.

 

Well, guys, time for an update. We went with the Saginaw 605 (rebuilt) with a typical GM pump (rebuilt). Used a Ch***is Engineering engine mount kit with the left mount offset to the front. Of course, the pitman arm had to be modified using most of the Saginaw arm and part of the Chevy pitman arm. The 605 is about 1/2" behind the left engine mount. It took some trial and error but we wound up with the pitman arm about 1" longer than the 605 arm. This drives OK but anything longer made the steering much too quick. Using the original steering wheel and column, we are using one U-Joint. We made an adjustible tie rod for the right side just for the convenience of it (orig was not adjustible). It has been interesting, to say the least. It didn't help that the first two pumps leaked and the first 605 leaked. Murphy's Law has prevailed! However, todays road tests were very satisfactory.

We did what we did from scratch (the hard way). I just learned 2 on the early Chevy parts folks have a bracket for using the 605 on '41-'48 Chevys and will even modify your pitman arm for you. 'Wish I had known this before we started! That would be the best way to go.

FYI, we used '60 Corvette spindles and front brakes. Works well with the '56 Chevy rear brakes.

Thanks for all of your advice and input.

Gaither ('41 Chev)

 

A friend of mine just updated to a power Daewoo R&P in his 46 Oldsmobile that bolts in using OEM idler arm and steering box mounts. He cut column and machined a 3/4" DD end to utilise an intermediate steering shaft. He bolted on flat plate onto R&P (As centre steer from memory) to replicate OEM geometry. Uses OEM Olds inner and outer arms. Perfect as he runs OEM front suspension with kingpins. He also upgraded to later GM discs brakes at the same time.

 

I see you refer to early chevy parts folks,is there a website for them I have several gm boxes ,would like the bracket you say they have .thanks in advance..speaking to po of the car I bought said he lowered front 2". I believe he may have done it with heat. Will start from scratch now.

 

My apologies if I bumped tread.saw a post that looked like it pertained to my problem.Joe