question for mopar guys

I am picking up a bone stock been in a barn for 20 years.. 1935 plymouth pickup on Wed. Original paint from the original owner. His wife is selling it to me since he died a while back. Don't know much about early Mopar. What motor would be in it.. and are there any hop up parts for it. Thanks, EVILT

 

Its prob a stock inline 6 flattie and "hydro" trans. They make cool rods. There are some resto shops into the early mopar engines, however, I'd drop an early Chrysler, Desoto, or Dodge Hemi if you wanted to stay all Mopar. I've got a 34 Plymouth Coupe, and parts are fairly easy to find. Look up Coach & Ch***is works and PLY-DO for some parts catalogs. Its up to you if you wanna retain the parrallel leafs or early coil spring suspension (varies depending on model...PE,PF,PD etc) I'm switchin to a "trad" Ford style front setup. Just so it doesnt ride like a modern jeep. LOL Several of us here on the HAMB have early Mopars. Look up some of the older threads. Levis Cl***ic has a really nice 33 Plymouth Coupe going together and several others. Hit me up to talk more mopars!!!

Hey if you dont want it mabye I'll take her...

 

I want it.. Just don't know much about em.. It does have leaf front end.. I saw dropped axles for them. I also have a 27 chrysler coupe that I am building with a Desoto 276 hemi. Are there any hop up parts for them? How reliable are those 6 bangers? Thanks,EVILT

 

Hey,

The Mopar flat head six cylinder engines didn't change much from '33-1959.
Many saw service in fork lifts, long after overhead valves were standard
order. They are not screaming horsepower engines, but split manifolds and
cams, and aluminum pistons are available. They sound great with twice pipes.

 

Plydo lists aluminum heads, split manifolds, dual carb intakes, but didn't know if it was for this early of a flathead 6.. Thanks, Jason.

 

I have a friend who picked up a 37 ply p/u awhile back It has a flatty six and a 3 speed ******. he is planning a stroker 340 for it pretty tight under the hood for a hemi tho. They have good lines Good luck with it.

Dawg

 

'35 Plym stock engine is 201 c.i. in '42 Plym went to the 218, then in '54, to the 230. If you go flathead six, get a 230. It's worth the extra cubes. You can get a 218 and put a 230 crank and rods in it.
I have a 230 in my car with dual carbs and split exhaust. Finned head, cam, ignition upgrades soon. I like it.
I have a spare trans and spare 230 parts if you need 'em

 

I can pick up a 318 and 727 for nothin out of a running plymouth ******* .I might decide to go that route instead.. not lookin to build a fire breather..just a good tunning shop truck...EVILT

 

LA motor with a six pack, early mopar double dip tube axle. Move the spring perches and/or use lowering blocks to drop it a little, I like it! My brother's been lusting after one of these for several years now. Modern shocks and new springs to replace the originals, late model power steering, if you do your homework setting it up, it should ride like a dream and still haul like a pickup. Go for it!

 

The 230 out of an early fifties car is approx 130 hp and a direct bolt-in. The bigger series six (Chrysler/De Soto/big truck) is a little longer; bolts to ****** and do cut-'n-weld to front mount to install. Looking at old Motors manuals, I saw that the HP on the 230 got a major jump when it went from approx 7:1 to 8:1 (like 20% or maybe more).

There are heads, cams, and manifolds available. Somewhere. There's a 241 (big series) available in my 1/2 car garage. Someone handy with a hole saw and welder could make his own header, and intake to take three vintage VW carbs or something like that.

I'd guess a good running six in a light car with 9:1 compression and multiple carbs would probably drive pretty good. I know that a tired 6.75:1 218 in a 3200# '49 sedan is pretty slow. But it ran with wristpin knock wouldn't die, even with daily Seattle commuting for a few years.

Don't know about any fluid-drive trannies being available in mid-thirties. I thought they were later, but am open to correction. Have heard a couple old-timers say that the old top-loader trannies in MoPars shifted really well compared to GM/Packard, Ford, of same era. Haven't done 'taste test' myself; so it's hearsay.

 

I agree with what OCF said, good real world stuff. I also think you probably have a regular old floor shifted three speed stock, or the truck has been mod'ed
If you decide to ditch the 201, I need the con rods

 

My big plan for the truck is to drop it a little bit and get the original gear goin'..drive it for a bit and then do a motor trans swap on it so I could flat tow one of my other cars..(27 T or 27 chrysler).. Do you think the 318 and 727 would be ok for this.. It is gonna be a closed hood car..Thanks, EVILT

 

If you already have the 318 run it if you have to buy wn engine go find a 360 it will fit anywhere the 318 will and you have the extra cubes.

Dawg

 

I was debating about running a 318 or 360 in my 37 Plymouth delivery. After hearing the discussion of each, I decided on the 360 to get the extra torque for hauling parts in the mountains regions of the country.

 

Drop the six and 3spd. and ditch the hood sides. STUFF a 426 HEMI with a 6pack and a 4spd. GET IT!



OK so a HEMI would be kinda big

Let me know if ya need a hand on Wed.
Can't wait to see it.

 

If you've got the 318/auto combo, use it. If you're just looking around, try finding a 1990 3/4 or 1 ton pickup with a 360. 90 because the 360 should have the taller lifter bosses for a hydrallic roller and it should have a non electronic controlled 518 overdrive automatic. I think this was the only year this happened. With the 360 freshened up and cammed into a torque monster, the hydrallic roller and overdrive automatic would still give halfway acceptable fuel economy. That said, you would probably want to toss the TBI as they were problematic. An aftermarket aluminum manifold and the 4bbl carb of your choosing would address that. I still think the sixpak idea would be perfect on an early mopar, but probably major dollars unless you were really lucky, (as in win the loto lucky). Oh, odds are if you have found a 318 in an "A" body it has the 998 version of the 904. The 727 would have more likely been found in the 3/4 and 1 ton pickups and vans, just a thought.

 

I've heard that this stuff is gone & they're not restocking it.

 

The 318 and 727 are mated together and were just pulled out of a running driving car..I don't have a line on any 360's...The 318 I can get complete with the trans for 300 bucks...Thanks for all the input. I will post pics when I pick it up on Wed. Thanks, EVILT

 

Any more input...Should I keep looking for a 360 or will the 318 be ok...Thnaks, EVILT

 

FWIW for those staying with the flat 6, the guy who made the stuff for PlyDo still makes it. Here is his info:

http://phillipsperformance.com/

 

For what its worth, I had a 318 in a truck of mine and put almost 215,000 miles on it. It still ran like a champ. I havent had any personal with the 360 but have had some friends that swear by them. From my personal experience my little 318 was one of the most reliable engines I ever had. I put on a dual plane and a 650 carb, added headers and drove it forever like that. Good luck with what ever it is you decide. Be sure to post some pics of the truck when you get it. - Dustin

 

Depends on if you plan on using the 35 as a pick up and pull or haul heavy loads with it.

If its going to be empty or near empty with an occasional towing thrown in, then the 318 with a small 4bbl, dual exhaust, and a small cam will work out just fine.

If you are planning on using it to haul stuff or pull a trailer/car, the 360 might be a good move. The 360 is a low end torque motor designed to pull around the big land barges of the early 70s and still meet the then new tougher emmission standards. They work well in pickups and with a small torque style cam can be made to perform better (in my opinoin) then a 340. The extra cubic inches will reduce your gas millage by about 2-3 mpg over a similuar equiped 318 but will have a bunch more torque.

Of course, the ultimate pulling power and torque would be a big block. A 383/400 are good load pulling motors that Mopar made millions of. If your pickuop will be used mostly for towing of carring a heavy load, a 383 can provide more torque and can deliver better gas millage then a 360. A 383 Mopar has been around since the late 50s. The amount of load and the amount of time it will be loaded will have a big impact on what motor I would recommend. Mopar made a lot of good motors besides the Hemis and the 440s.
Gene

 

I have a new truck to use for heavy towing. I plan to use this truck to pick up parts and for running around town..I'm thinkin the 318 might be my best bet from what I have read, unless someone can tell me diff. Thanks, EVILT

 

Use the 318 Torqueflite if you had a chance run and/or drive it before it was pulled out of the car and you are sure it runs good. A decent cam and a 4bbl and a set of headers will really wake up a LA motor, but if it runs good, use it like it is and get your car running. If it doesn't, find a pickup donor with 360 (more torque with a little gas mileage penalty), a lot of times you can find one in good mechanical condition thats been trashed or rusted out for cheap. Later down the road with the above mentioned mods with X or J heads could make the grin factor spread ear to ear. Later model swirl ports or the 360 heads (same as 73 340) would be almost as good, also. Because it's overshadowed by 340's and 360's, the poor little 318 is like Rodney Dangerfield. Don't let it fool you just because it does everyone else.

 

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ZOMBIE POST ALERT!!!!

C'mon, did you really not even LOOK at the post dates on this thread....??

If you need parts then use the cl***ifieds.

.

 

Use the 318/727. I had a couple new cars with that combo and the only problem was the stock carb.

 

Yes.....it's an old thread, but I MUST clarify things as there was never a 1935 Plymouth pickup. They started making Plymouth pickups in 1937....NOT 1935.