'52 Plymouth - rear brake upgrade/rear end swap

Hello!

I'm going to start getting my '52 Plymouth road-worthy in the next few weeks, and part of that job will be a brake upgrade. I plan on using Scarebird's conversion to get discs on the front, but I'm not sure as to what I should do for the rear. I'm not sure because I found a company that makes disc conversions for '35 and up Chrysler cars, including my '52 Plymouth. It's at www.tsmmfg.com. If I can retain the original rear, convert it to discs, and swap in a T5 for the 3 speed, is there ANY reason I should NOT use the original rear?

My understanding is that it's got a 3.9 ratio, which will work well with the OD on a T5. I have ZERO experience with Chrysler products from the 50s, so I don't know if there are any inherent weaknesses or drawbacks in the original rear end.


Are there? The drivetrain is bone stock and will get, at most, a mild warm over with a cam, dual carbs, milled head, and exhaust, and that won't be fore some time to come.


I hope not, because if I can get away with a brake swap on the original axle and use a T5 to make the car highway-worthy, it will save me a ton of work.


Thanks in advance for your input.


Chris

 

Forgot to mention - this disc conversion kit also has a provision for a parking brake setup 'cause it uses Eldorado calipers.

Chris

 

I'm running the stock rear in my 48 Plymouth and have had no problems. I have a 4.10 gear, but also have a 53 model Borg Warner OD transmission and it runs great on the highway with the 4.10 I can still do 65-70 all day.

Slightly warmed over 57 model 230 rather than the stock 218 which also helps, but I ran all the same "Speed" equipment on the 218 with the exception of the aluminum head and it would cruise at 65 as well.

 

If you're retaining the flattie (think you said elswhere you are) the only drawback is the P-I-A of getting drums off of the tapered axle, vs a modern axle. 66-67 C body is supposed to be a direct bolt in & many Big 3 axles fit with a spring perch relocation.

 

the C body is to wide.

 

George -

Yeah, I'm aware of the brake drum issues, but I figure with a little bit of emory paper and some anti-seize, I could probably keep them from getting horribly stuck after the first time.

Chris

 

You need the correct puller and a BFH.

 

Some are, but, the 66-7 is a bolt in on the '41 Plym & the 41 is the same width as my '48 & '60....

 

Bad Idea....... the tapered fit is part of the mechanical link between the axle shaft and hub. Doing what you propose will transfer all the load to the axle "key" stock and that was never intended to carry the drive loads by itself.

If you are familiar with machine shop equipment, larger drill presses, lathes and mills, you know about Morse taper tooling. Same principle with your rear axle/hub joint.

If you want easier to remove hubs, change the rear axle as recommended
above. Also, the Eldorado calipers you are thinking of using are troublesome. An Explorer rear end offers everything you need and want, i.e. disc brakes, drum style parking brake (in the rotor hat) and is widely available in 3.55 and 4.10 axle ratios, many with limited slip....and they are cheap to buy.

 

George,

I think you mean B Body, but you would still need to move the spring perches.

 

Nope, C Body. A buddy of mine has one in his '41, dropped right on.

 

X2.........while the "C" body itself is fairly wide, the axle is not. Look at one and you will see the wheels set inward quite a bit. A friend of mine used a rear end from a "C" body of the era George recommends in a '38 Dodge build and the width was good.

 

Drum to Drum a 65-69 C Body and 65-70 A100 Vans is 61 3/4 inches

Drum to Drum a 68-70 B Body is 60 1/8 inches

Drum to Drum 37-48 All Mopars is 60 inches

Drum to Drum a 70-71 Imperial is 59 3/4 inches

Drum to Drum a 64-67 B Body is 59 1/2 inches

 

I tryed a 65 dodge and it was to wide Iused a 77 volorie / diplomat rearend and had to put new pads but picked up an inch on both sides.

 

Would you be able to just use an s10 rear end? If you are using the trans then the gearing should be correct in theory, right?


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I used a rear out of a Diplomat/Gran Fury. It fit perfect with a simple spring perch swap. Check it out in my build thread:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=762258&page=3

 

Has anyone answered this yet? I have a 49 2 door deluxe and an old s10 laying around.

 

An S-10 2 wheel drive axle assembly is too narrow for your '49. An S-10 4 wheel drive axle is wider. But, in both cases, they do not match your front wheel bolt pattern.

Sometimes trying to use parts you just happen to have "just laying around" can be just the ticket....other times they lead you astray and you would be far better off in the long run by acquiring the correct parts for the job at hand.

 

There's actually a number of mopar & Ford axles that will work with a spring perch relocation. I have a 9" out of a 73 Mustang in a '47 & one out of a '77(?) Ranchero in a '60.

 

Overall it's probably cheaper and easier to go to the boneyard and look at the Explorer /Mountaineer 8.8 rears. They are the right width.

Find one with discs ('97 up I think) and if you are lucky, newish brake hardware. Eliminate that leaky old rear, keep the same bolt pattern.

 

^^^^^what he said.......

I have measurements on my webpages if you need them.......


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