I am home for the holidays and have a couple of days to work on my ongoing project 59 buick. I have been several years trying to get it ready to paint. I did not want to leave it in patina as some has suggested. I want a late 50,s early sixties mild custom in shiny paint. I have done all my body work ,took complete car to metal,epoxy primed, and have two coats of primer that I have guide coated and sanded down. I am about to put the third coat of high build primer on and block again. Probably all I'll get done this time in. I went to local so called parts store to get some dewaxer/degreaser. They don't carry it any more. They do have acetone and it says to dewax and degrease. Will it work or will it hurt the primer thats on the car? I am trying to get ready to paint over Christmas holidays. Thanks TP
I think they mean to use to REMOVE wax and grease. I'm no car painter, but I use Acetone as a GREAT rattle can paint remover. I'm almost certain you don't want to rub that stuff on your paint. But, like I said, I'm no car painter.
Acetone will and does remove paint. I used to like to use paint thinner (not mineral spirits) but it'ts been outlawed here in "The Red State of Kalifornia" I tried grease and wax remover but don't really care for it. I was wondering if Denatured Alcohol might work.
I thought it was a little hot to use. Do they not make a dewaxer degreaser anymore? I want to wipe my car to make sure nothing as got on it before I re-prime.
The denatured might work, don't know. I'm hoping a painter will chime in. I know good old soap and water works also,but dang it's cold. Guys from up north and scandinavion rodders will laugh. It's wet and 38 but thats cold to me. LOL!
I went to three auto parts stores in the area. Trying not to get in the traffic and go to paint store in town.
My local O'Reilly's sells de-greaser cloths that come in a package. I use them to wipe down stuff when I rattle can. I can't remember seeing anything in a large can. Maybe you need to go to an automobile paint store.
don't use the acetone, x2 on alcohol, there was a thread on here about using glass cleaner, do a search
You've done all this work and NOW you're gonna cut corners? Go get the right stuff, at the right place. Good luck.
Yeah, I did a search and was not successful. Me and the search function never work out. Trying to avoid the trip to town and the traffic sux due to all the construction. . May have to bite the bullet. Hi-lo used to carry it but the 18 year old that I ask had a deer in the headlight look when I ask him if they had any.
At this point in your process you don't really need a wax and grease remover UNLESS the surface has been seriously contaminated. Instead use a fast evaporating cleaner like PPG DX 330 which is better suited and DESIGNED for removing residue BETWEEN COATS and as a final wipe before color is applied. Don't risk screwing up previous prep work with chemicals intended for other uses. Follow the directions. Buy from an auto body paint supplier. Luck, John MY MISTAKE HERE.... PPG DX 330 is wax and grease remover. I should have said PPG DX 320 in the above sentence.
PPG/Ditzler DX 440 wax,grease and silicone remover. Of course you will have to go to a real automotive paint store to get it.While your there get some lint free rags or towels to go with it. Dont use shop rags.
Acetone is basically fingernail polish remover. It makes a great adhesive remover too. It won't be nice to your primer. NAPA has always carried WG remover in gallons here. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Wax and grease remover is formulated to remain wet for a short time causing contaminants to float so they can then be wiped off. If sanding residue and finger prints etc. is what you want to remove the heavier bodied, slower drying wax and grease remover is overkill and may actually penetrate the surface. That's why I suggest a fast evap solvent. John
I agree with everyone who is correct! Get the real thing and use it. Grease and wax remover is cheaper than a respray. Been painting for 30 years, and teach it now. Don't take shortcuts and don't take bad advise. Good luck!
Dupont makes a product called prep sol, also final wipe. Go to town and find a real paint store,and listen to them.
Wasn't trying to be hardcore, but EVERY time I try to cut corners, I make a BIGGER mess, that's even HARDER to fix. I have MILLIONS of examples. Proof? Ask me why I have a new front brake line. Cutting corners.
"I agree with everyone who is correct" ..... me too. , and should you decide to use the acetone do it BEFORE you get your manicure and nail polish!
Eastwood has it!! I know you will have to wait for shipping! Auto paint store for sure has it!! Good luck!! Pete
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=837559&highlight=paint Be damn careful about the acetone. I wouldn't use it for a wax and grease remover
Dupont Prep Sol 3919s is a wax and grease remover. For decades Dupont recommended their 3812s fast dry Enamel Reducer (not acrylic enamel reducer) for final wipe and sanding residue cleaning after sanding between coats. They may have a substitute now. John
Be very careful with acetone (MEK, methyl ethyl ketone) it's a very dangerous chemical. And do not use it to degrease primed body panels. As others have recommended go to a automotive paint supplier and purchase the product designed for your purpose. Again as a warning MEK when absorbed through the skin goes directly to your kidneys. Years ago the film industry outlawed it's use to clean film when after years of exposure film editors were dying. Just FYI, be very careful with chemicals.
You have gotten good answers, but I will add some additional comments in case someone is searching later. Acetone is very aggressive. I found out the hard way that it can actually strip powder coating. Way too harsh as wax and grease remover. The solvents I like best are mineral spirits or VM&P Naptha, the latter of which is a faster solvent. VM&P is generally available at your local hardware store and is one of the strongest solvents for cleaning wax, grease, oils, tar, sticker residue, etc without causing any damage to paints. It generally won't cause any damage to fine finished paints, plastics, etc. and is a great solvent to have around the shop. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ok, so I ended up making the trip to the paint store. Told the paint rep. what I was doing and he suggested. JX 101 shopline. I guess he knows that I'm cheap. Told me to wet a lent free cloth and wipe then immediately wipe dry. What do you think? If the shopline isn't right I can return in the morning and get the Dx 330 or Dx 440. The reason I am thinkinfg I need to do this is,it's been at least a month since I last primed and block sanded. It has been in my shop[ detached garage]. Some activity in the shop but I have a sneaky lizard that tends to take a dump every now and then and it ends up on the car.
I was just joking with you Fred. I didn't think you were hard core at all. I'm thick skinned. Thanks to everyone for the advice. I used to paint motorhomes and a few cars years ago. Now I have Old Timers disease and can't remember shit! Thanks again.
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