hey there, ive found myself here brousing advise in the past but never had the need to post until now so im a newby,, i dont have much expertise just more of a find a way to get it done the best i can kind guy.. iv been plagued w a nightmare ****** swap, off and on for couple years sinse i bought the truck.. i bought my 66 chevy c10 2 years ago in florida and drove it up to RI.. it was originally a 6cyl w 3speed on the column. it was converted to the floor shift before i got it, as well as having 308 gears in the rear so it cruises well on the highway. when i bought the truck it came w a bed FULL of extra parts.. including a borg warner T5 5spd (non world cl*** i think it is from a 91 chevy s10). the previous owner of the truck bought the 5spd & planned on swapping out the saginaw 3spd in the truck for the the obvious reasons (5spds, ratios, overdrive, syncros, top loading etc) ..so at my earliest convenience i bought, what was suggested to me as the "right clutch kit" (a chevy s10 v8 10" conversion clutch) i got the truck on jack stands and swapped out the ******.. all went fairly well.the clutch kit bolted right up to the flywheel the bell housing went right back on & the t5 bolted right up to the bell housing. AHHH NICE IM ALL DONE RIGHT ?! LOL ..w the shifter installed & the truck not running it shifted smoothly into all gears, but as soon as i started the truck up and tried to shift it, it would just grind and not go in any gear?! i adjusted the lever/fork throw to the max and had my brother check that it was actuating the clutch plate and it has plenty of throw but its still grinding as if the clutch is still touching/hanging up on the flywheel? in one weekend i didn the job 5 times.. taking the ****** out checking it all and putting it back in w the same result.. i was so frustrated after 2-3 days that i reinstalled the old clutch and 3spd and drove the truck for 5 months as it was. before the winter i tried doing it all again..& again & again.etc.. the truck was on jack stands for 3 months..i have done the job 10 TIMES on my back in the driveway w the same result. i then had a mechanic friend do the install and he also had the same result. so guess what? after probably 100 hrs of back breaking work, im back running the truck w the old clutch and 3 speed and have been driving it this way for a year but the old clutch has been basicly toast sinse i got the truck i truly dont know how its still working.. at this point i dont want to buy another clutch for my 10spline 3 speed, when i already bought a new clutch kit and flywheel for the 5spd setup..and even if i ended up buying the wrong clutch for the 5 speed i would rather buy the right one for that than a new one for the 3speed .. please, any advise would be apreciated, even though the clutches look the same (except the obvious change from 10 to 14splines) im ***uming i have the wrong clutch pack but that is just a guess. .. as i said i was told i needed to buy a clutch kit to go w the t5 ****** so i was told to get a chevy s10 v8 conversion clutch ( as if i were putting a 350 in the s10) so if ther is any specifics someone knows about the 10" clutch disc specifics of the late 80s-early 90s borg warner t5 S10 compaired to the 10" clutch specifics of my 66 c10 that would be causing the my issues.. thanks much for any input and advise..Troy.. happy holidays
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=482069 Take a look at this thread on the 67-72 truck forum. It may help.
First, and most obvious would be that the disc was installed backwards and the hub springs are rubbing the flywheel bolts. Does the disc move freely on the transmission spline? If the transmission was sitting in the back of the truck, there might be some rust on the splines or the splines might have some wear from the previous disc hub which might have rested in a slightly different position. The disc needs to slide freely on the splines. Make certain the splines are clean and use a little graphite lube on them. Another thing that can happen is the disc could be bent. Installing it without a transmission jack can lead to the transmission hanging on the clutch disc until the transmission is bolted in bending it slightly. If the kit came with an installation tool to align the disc, you could put the disc on the splined shaft, put the pilot bearing end of the shaft in a drill chuck, clamp the drill in a vice, turn the disc by hand and check for run out or wobble. Is the pilot bearing the correct size? If the transmission input shaft is too loose in the pilot bearing, the shaft could wobble which would rub the disc on the flywheel or pressure plate. If it's too tight in the pilot bearing, the pilot bearing will turn the input shaft. If the input shaft bottoms out in the pilot bearing, it will turn with the pilot bearing. You could try shimming the transmission back with a washer or two.
the clutch you have is ok. get a 3/8 spacer made to go between trans and bellhousing. usually cost about 20 bucks at a machine shop. splines on t5 are not as long as splines on three speed trans so clutch cant travel enough. also measure front bearing collar or retainer on t5 versus the one on your three speed, usually you have to cut the collar so it wont bottom out on the clutch hub. you could also get an 11inch clutch for a 4.3 that will bolt up to your flywheel in case you wanted a bigger one. but the 10 inch one will work fine with your six cylinder.
Contact SNARL here on the HAMB. I think he has the thin spacer you need and he's a great source of info for swaps into Chevys. Some folks have used a die grinder to shorten the collar/bearing retainer AND lengthen the splines on the input shaft (but a spacer would be better).
Check out the modifications I made to make it work.. Go to my thread "T5(S10) transmission install in 1929 coupe".. I think it might be helpful...
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