Just blasted some small parts....now what?

Just had a local outfit blasted (low press using gl***) some parts that need to be taken care
of before the rust eats thru. They do offer...will spray bomb using Eastwood zinc
phosphate. Of course not sure how much or adequate coverage
they apply!
Need advice on next step to protect or finish?
They are items such as window garnish mldg, dash plates, most anything I can spray bomb.
Most do not require any bondo, etc... paint to basic colors
What products, type and order do I use.....ie. Will either use Eastwood, Napa
or other common off shelf can

 

Try some Rust Block. It is available at Harbor Freight & Sears.

 

What are some tips from the pros?

 

Pros use a compressor and spray gun, and apply automotive paint. And they usually do the small parts last, and don't clean them up until they're ready to paint them.

 

I wipe/spray with Ospho and let sit for five minutes. I then wipe off excess and cleanwith lacquer thinner. The phosphate coating will protect for a long time. It does not hide as paint would.

 

I wipe the parts down with a metal prep,,this removes any sand dust and oil from your hands,,a inexpensive rattle can primer can be found at NAPA or most any automotive parts house,,duplicolor etching primer.

This has worked for me for several years.. HRP

 

Ding ding ding... we have a winner!

Unless it is a 2 component product it is nothing more than laquer and it will fail and offers no good protection. You mine as well just go right to color and skip the rest of the steps.

Using an aerosol product for a foundation is like building a house on mud or sand. It may last for a while, but it will fail.

Over blasted parts you should be using an epoxy first. Let cure, then move on in the process.

 

+2 for avoiding spray bombs. Pros rarely use any coating in an aerosol can. Oh there's a few exceptions, like bumper cover black, but rare.

 

I never professed to be a pro but a gentleman locally that has been doing high end paint jobs for years taught me the rattle can trick,,no it's not for large stuff,,with that stick to the correct spray equipment.

He also says NEVER use lacquer thinner as a prep,,it leaves a residue. HRP

 

Just to be clear, my statement was not directly meant for you. I hope you didn't take it personally, I don't think you did.

Like you said, on some small spots, ok, I can see that. But how often do we see here on the hamb guys telling others how to blatantly do something incorrectly. One guy may say they do it on a small part, the next is doing his whole car with aerosols. It makes me shiver.

I am a technical rep for a major paint brand. I see these failures daily. It doesn't matter what paint line is being used, what matters is the process is being done correctly for long term quality results.

I have a guy local to me that spent 7 years rebuilding an all steel 32 five window coupe. He started the process on the body with a cheap 1k aerosol etch primer. Then used a high build surfacer on top of that. When the body work phase started and some sanding was done and they went to bare metal in a few spots what do you think they found underneath? Rust. He continued and painted the car. Mark my words, it will fail and all that time, money and energy will have been for nothing.

That is what bothers me.

 

True.

I painted cars for 6yrs at a good shop using only top-quality materials but I must confess I used Martin Senour 99a black in a spray can once for a firewall (long story)....I was CONVINCED it would turn out like **** and wouldn't last. Took my time for prep work and hell it looked decent and held up fairly well...hahahaha, I still shake my head at that.

12yrs later I soda blasted and re-painted that same firewall with Sikkens base/clear and it looks much, much better, but you get what you pay for.

 

I'll take a slightly different approach. ***uming that your parts haven't turned some ugly brown already you can protect them with aerosol cold-galv, available near everywhere in several slightly different colors/textures dependent on brand.
I have used cold-galv spray as primer under many different paints including blocks, heads and such. It will stick real good to media blasted surfaces.
No, it is perhaps not the best for show quality finishes, but it is good for getting into small cracks and crevices and places where a spray gun is too big. It runs thin enough to seep into spot welded seams and laps.

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