Projects 1953 Buick Super.... 6 issues, little help?

Claymart: Thanks; I'm inquiring about that part today; to a few other sources. I totally agree, the ballast resistor should be a white rectangular component with pos/neg, and be bolted to the firewall. This part is a 1.5" diameter circular part, with it's own individual bracket. The bottom of the bracket sits on top of the ignition coil bracket, and both are bolted down into the intake manifold. Does this help root what this is?

 

If it was connected to the orignal coil it most likely is a iginion resistor ! That is a very early 12V car and somethings may not look like what was used later.

 

That sounds logical by where it's mounted but not having a shop manual and not knowing how this one is wired up just got me to thinking. And there's some added complexity to the wiring in this car since I believe the starter is actuated by fully depressing the accelerator pedal. Probably some extra switches or relays in the circuit to prevent the starter from engaging when the engine is running. If you don't have one already I'd say find youself a 1953 Buick shop manual.

Either way, by the way it's glowing orange it sure appears to be a resistor of some sort!

It likely is a ballast resistor for the ignition but the design and location of it caught my eye. While doing a bit of online searching I think I also saw mention of the fact that in '53 Buicks with V8s were 12 volt while the straight 8s were still 6 volt. Looking at it 60 years after the fact it sure seems like a hell of a way to build cars, doesn't it?

 

HAH! ClayMart is right, you beat me to it

now it comes back! I kept thinking 6 volt? 12 volt? yea I recalled that confusion long ago I installed a 53 special engine in a 39. I just checked it out and yes that was a weird problem back in the day. The 53 special is 6 volt! the whole system! So that kinda makes sense to these problems. Previous owner changed it over to 12 v.

gggg my old memory kept buggin me.

 

39cent: you're right about the 53' special... and my car is a 53' super, and was 12v from the factory. After my initial confusion, I always remember... 1953 Buick models: Special - straight 8 & 6-volt. Super & Roadmaster - V8 - 322 Nailhead & 12v. (and skylark of course)

After researching that mystery part I FINALLY FOUND IT! (and yes, you'all were right) It's a voltage reducer, 12v to 6v, the 1.5 ohm ceramic resistor was getting red hot.

Now, just trying to figure out what it was used for. (has to be a 6v component installed by previous owner, right?... any thoughts?) I know these are usually used for 6v to 12v conversion cars, but mine is factory 12v.

So, does this mean the prev owner replaced a factory component with a 6v replacement, trying to reduce voltage down from 12v to 6v? (wiper motor/gauges/blower/???)

Ok, back the grind... I might just remove the reducer, wire the coil the normal way, and give it a try. Update soon...

 

So far this is the only wiring diagram I've found that might be helpful. It doesn't specify '53, V8 engine or 12 volt but I think there's a good chance that it is. Just take it with a grain of salt.

It does show a resistor near the ign. coil and it seems to be logically wired to provide full battery voltage from the starter solenoid while cranking and reduced voltage from the ignition switch thru the resistor when the starter is disengaged.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j152/V8PunkRocket/56wiring.gif

If the lead from the distributor was on the wrong resistor terminal I could see the ignition getting the reduced voltage while cranking (instead of full battery voltage) and making it possibly hard to start.

 

Hey man, did you figure out the wiring yet?... I have a '53 Buick Super 56R and could shoot ya a pic of mine...if it helps! not new to the HAMB, but finally found my dream Buick a couple months ago and now the journey begins!

 

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Let me know if this helps...or if you need any different angles. Let me know if you need me to trace anything too. Good luck! Lets keep in touch!

 

When paper filters first came out they claimed they filtered the air down finer. This may be true but I don't think it makes a big diff to engine life unless you drive in very dusty conditions.

Main advantage of paper is, they are cheaper. Auto companies are always looking for ways to cheapen their products even by a penny. Going to paper filters saved them $$$$$$$. The fact that the customer would spend hundreds over the life of the car for replacements - hey that's their funeral.

Also, they were always trying to lower the hood and make the cars sleek, you can make a paper filter much smaller. On some six cylinder cars they even hung them sideways off the side of the motor, so you could do things you couldn't with an oil bath.

Paper filter also lighter.

As you say, the chance to make $$$$$ selling replacements was an advantage (to the car company) but that was not the only one, or even the main one.

Servicing an oil bath is so easy and cheap, and needs to be done so seldom, I don't know why anyone would bother changing to paper if they didn't have to.

They used to recommend servicing them every 10000 miles but if you drive on paved roads you can go 25000 to 50000. It is easy to see if you need to do anything, just lift the top off and check the oil level, and that it is not filled with dirt.

Use 50wt oil (except in below freezing temps you can use 30wt) 1 quart will fill 3 or 4 filters. Or about 100,000 miles of use.

 

Teddy: thanks for those resistor wiring pics... definitely helped me. Regarding parts, I could use sill plates for both sides... other than that I should be set.

Rusty: great info on oil bath vs paper filter... I'll post updated pics of the engine compartment very soon.

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I'm pretty sure that I don't have sill plates, but I will double check for ya! No prob on the pics, message me if u need any more on that or anything else! Happy holidays!


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