I wanted to find out if any one makes this brake pedal set up without the clutch pedal? I'm asking because I would like to run that master cylinder. I believe that is 60s chevy truck. Thanks for any help.
Cory at Rjays speed shop is who made that setup you have posted. Give him a call he does custom stuff and it would be very easy to do it with just one pedal.
If you want to run that master cylinder but only one pedal, what are you going to do with the unused side of the master cylinder? One bore is for the brake and the other one is for the clutch.(as in GM and IH)
thanks for the help. I did not realize that one side was for clutch and one brake. I thought it was one for front and one for back brakes and people were able to use one side for clutch.
I personally don't like the aftermarket brackets. Last weekend I went and searched a U-pull it junkyard, and got the pedal and bracket from a later Elcamino(same as the Gmetric cutlsas, malibu cars) and the throttle pedal for the 42 Chevy I am building. Then I will get a booster M/C combo aftermatket to finish it out
Ordered one from Cory a couple days ago, will be installing in a '34 Ford P/U, 351 Cleavland and 5 speed. Had it shipped un ***embled with not yet bent pedals. Will be modifying the ***embly by centering the brake pedal in between M/C bores, using one bore for the front disc's one for the rear shoes. The clutch pedal will be moved over to the left a couple more inches and used as a cable operated clutch release sense there is no room under floor with motor set back and stock "X" member. Pedals bent to customers liking. Merry Christmas!................
Cool. What's the reason for splitting the bores for front/rear brakes? And are you planning to actuate both with one pedal?
Yes, one pedal for both bores, pedal centered for hydraulic load hoping that the bore with the valving will work with the rear "shoe" wheel cyl. and the one without will work the front disc's. With a 1 1/8" bore on each I may have to "fiddle" with the front's with proportioning /stand off valve but willing to experiment if need be to make it work. If I use adjustable rods I may be able to adjust timing of brakes just like the dirt track guy's!
JFYI, running side-by-side (racing style) master cylinders has two disadvantages; complexity...and higher pedal forces, with up to twice the efforts over a single or normal dual master, depending on pedal ratio. Something to think about.
Well I didn't see it any diff. than pushing one manual dual in line Corvette M/C with one pedal but I am shooting from the hip here so maybe that will be a factor will see........ I do have the luxury of lengthening the brake pedal ratio so we will see what happens.
There have been several posts on this application in the past, try searching using the term balance bar.
Don't you guys in Wa St just love the fact that some guy will be ridding around in a car with a patched up, unproven braking system, hoping it will work. Best hope he is not behind you in a panic stop situation.
I have a setup with 2) M/Cs one front one rear. You better scale down your M/C size to 3/4" or your pedal will be too hard. Mine works well with 3/4' masters each and a 6to pedal ratio with out booster. Ago
I apologize to tobyflh (OP) for taking his thread off course but maybe the info given by others has helped! ago, yep bore size is my only concern at the moment, glad to hear your's is sorted out and working "well".
My twin 3/4" M/C have a balance bar like a race car so I can adjust brake bias front to rear, same as a proportioning valve. This is the second car I used this system on. Ago
I just can't see spending $100 for something that I spent a whopping $12.90 for the brake pedal and bracket and a throttle pedal at a junk yard. It won't take much work to modify this bracket for my application
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