Features Doing Falcons Right

Good input here. Thanks for that. I'm taking from these comments that the stock setup with beefed up components is preferable? Weight is my biggest concern which is why I'm not inclined to go with the MII setup. This is a drag race app with goal weight of 2600-2700 lbs.


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Not sure why that weight would rule out the Mustang II stuff, but I think you got it otherwise. Don and I have gone back and forth with the Mustang II vs. stock modified conversation, and I know he is firmly in that camp. I have driven and installed a couple of Mustang IIs under Falcons, and under dozens of other hot rods, and done properly it works great. YOU DO HAVE TO DO SOME SORT OF DOWN BARS TO THE FRONT FRAME RAILS with a Mustang II unit in a Falcon though in my opinion.

I have to admit that I was going to do a plotted "map" of the stock/Shelby modded Falcon front end vs. the Mustang II about a year ago, so we could see which had the superior geometry, but life got in the way and that never happened. With having to put my Ranchero together this spring, I will take time to do it at some point.

The weight you are contemplating is not too far outside of that of some of the later more equipped Pintos and Mustang IIs that the suspension originally came from, so from that stand point it'll work just fine. Installed correctly, that is.

Don's thoughts are correct too. The stock front end under these cars can be made to handle very well, and with the disc brake kits out there, stop very well too. The only problem is the shock towers for those of you guys wanting to do V8s in these cars. Maybe a coil over conversion on the front could be employed to allow a down sizing of the towers, but I have never personally done that, so I can't say.

Either way, as Don said, I don't see a major advantage to the CCP type front end kit. All it is doing is getting rid of the strut rods, which as Don stated can be used to your advantage greatly for these cars.

 

I agree that an MII can work right and have done many of them as well, my current 37 coupe has one. BUT I do not think they gain anything in an early Falcon/Mustang unless you absolutely need the shock tower room. With coil overs you can gain a couple of inches in shock tower room, it's a fair amount of work, but not all that bad - I wish I had pictures of the Mustang I did years ago, but alas I don't.
I also know that the MII is heavier than the stock suspension set up, mainly because of the crossmember. The stock early stuff is pretty light. Remember that many of these cars were dragged raced with stock suspensions and did just fine. Just make sure you keep the alignment dead on, especially toe as they have a ton of travel that changes the alignment a fair amount as it cycles through, and run a really good set of drag shocks (ie; light on extension and heavy on bump damping)

 

Exactly! I think if I was to do a drag race mostly type car I would stick with a stock front end and narrowed towers.

 

The shock towers are almost a non issue for my setup. It would be nice to have a little more room but not essential. This car needs to run 4.60's 1/8 mi. That means 1400 HP. It also means very little front suspension travel. Maybe 2" extension from normal ride height but more likely 1" on a good track. Wheelie bars are not allowed in the class so I will be relying on limiting front end travel to keep from climbing to the sky. I guess I need to refocus on making the factory design work. The MII is too heavy due to the crossmember.


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That's a solution, looking for a problem.

I can see no advantage over the stock design. If you are street going, just upgrade the stock stuff.

If you want to limit droop, use the limit straps that the off-road guys use.

 

MERRY CHRISTMAS to all of my fellow Falconers!

 

Back at'cha!

 

Anyone know how much to cut on the front coil to get the drop of 2 inches on a 62 that is stock mechanically?

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Depends on the year and the engine, as well as the condition of the springs. Probably 1 full turn. Less if they are already sagged a bit.

 

Cool... thanks! Its the stock 1962 170 ford-o-matic.

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I cut a coil and almost a half out of my wife's 60 with a 144 and 1" lowering blocks in the rear.

 

1.5 coils max.

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Im running stock 13 inch wheels, I was thinking that 2 inches would be the max, but I am unsure.

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If the are original springs, I would start by cutting one coil, and see what that does. You can't cut less.

I have a '60, running 560lb. springs (.620 wire) for a 65-66 Mustang, with a full coil removed. It is 2" lower, and I run short front bump stops.

If you drop more than 2", with a soft spring, you might strike the stock stops, on the rough stuff.

While you are in there, do the Shelby control arm relocation, too. It will make it handle better.

 

Going to be buying some 4 lug spoked wheels, the guy assures me they were on an early mustang.
The problem I hav is that 3 are the same and 1 is different. I may be able to roll them without it being too noticable but would like to find a match.
Can anyone identify the wheel?
The one on the left is one of 3 and the one on the right is different.
Left has 48 spokes and right has 44.
Any ideas?

 

Unless you're going to show it, probably nobody will notice but you.

 

Yeah that's what I figured. But it will annoy me. If I can find some skirts that look good that would be best.
But still want to know what they are so I can keep an eye out for one.

 

Cool wheels. I don't have a clue.

Floor shift continued:

I took some primitive drawings and dopey cardboard templates to Virginia HAMB'r and mad skillz fabricator ClutchDumpin'Dan.

He came up with a mounting bracket that'll put the shifter where I want it without too much pain and heartbreak. Crappy phone pic of test fit:



After some threading, paint and hardware:



Finished bracket, mount and shifter:



Reducing the cover bling via semi-gloss black:

 

Lookin' good Al.

 

Nice work on the shifter.

 

What all is needed to delete the column shifter stuff?
And where can it be found?
I'm gathering parts to start on our '63 (with wisdom learned from these pages).

 

Crowen:
I've gotta' automatic column shift; dunno' what's needed for a standard shift conversion.

Find these parts from a floor shift Falcon or Mustang:

C3DZ-3790-A extension, steering column tube
C5DA-3511-A steering column collar
C3DZ-3517-A Steering column bearing

I lucked out and got a complete 64 Mustang steering column tube to strip for parts.

 

I tack welded my shift arms to the tube, and cut them off flush. I then cut off the lever lug on the column, ground the edges smooth, and roughed up the hole. I tucked a little screen at the bottom of the hole, and filed it with JB Weld, of the quick variety. A little painters tape held the middle epoxy in, until it cured. After a few rounds of epoxy, I sanded it smooth and panted it. It is like it was never there.

 

Quick question... Will Crown Victoria components bolt into a 60-63 falcon? I'm more curious than anything, as I have been seeing it being used in all kinds of cars and trucks and just wondered.

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Not even close. The CV's width is 9" wider. Besides, why would you want to, even if it fit? All the miles-deep Mustang aftermarket stuff fits the Falcon, and there was nothing wrong with the stock design, save for what you can fix by drilling 4 holes.

 

And those 4 holes are the best single modification you can do on an early falcon. The difference is like night and day.


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^^^Truth^^^^

 

Cool... cures that bit of curiosity. Thanks gents.
Happy New Year to all of you.

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