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How would you set up my panhard bar?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NAES, Dec 27, 2013.

  1. NAES
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 491

    NAES
    Member

    Hey all, I'm finishing up the *** end of my C10 and need to fabricate a panhard bar and mount. If you guys don't mind chiming in on where you think I should mount it, I would really appreciate it. For now (and probably permanently), this will be a static drop but there are frame mods to allow bags if I ever wanted to go that route.

    I've done as much reading as I can find on the subject and I would like to go from the drivers side frame rail across the backside of the rear end and attach it to the axle tube itself somewhere outboard of the U bolts. This would give me a few degrees down when looking at the rear measuring left to right. And as the suspension fully compresses it shouldn't move the rear around too much.


    Springs are just setting on the frame, not bolted for now. As are the trailing arm pads. They'll get dialed as the rear end comes together. Shock mounts are going to have to be swapped I think.

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    I appreciate the help guys, NAES
     
  2. BobF
    Joined: Dec 30, 2004
    Posts: 232

    BobF
    Member
    from Poway, CA

    Sounds like you have the right idea. I always heard to keep it as level as possible and the longer the better to allow minimal lateral movement. My only real experience is our 28 A rdstr with coil overs to a Ford 8". I went from the p*** side frame rail down a little for one end and to a bracket I made that bolts to the upper bolts of the third member. It really isn't all that long and I've never had any sway problems, and I did this back in 82.
     
  3. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Thats a lot of axle hanging out there unsupported.
     
  4. 66tintop
    Joined: Nov 7, 2012
    Posts: 450

    66tintop
    Member
    from Canada

    Your set up might be a great candidate for a watts linkage , with the watts swivel mounted to crossmember and then the mounts on both sides of the axle housing, the nice part of the watts linkage is the roll center stays constant thur out suspension travel
     
  5. prewarcars4me
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,077

    prewarcars4me
    Member
    from Bhc, AZ

    Yep, thats going to have a lot of body roll.
     
  6. hdman6465
    Joined: Jul 5, 2009
    Posts: 662

    hdman6465
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You are on the right track. Keep it as level and as long as possible. Bolt on mounts are available for 68-72 c-10s that the ubolt holds on. Easy to fab a mount for the driver side. Try to set everything at ride height.
     
  7. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    as level to the ground as possible.

    Im only seeing the rear half of the frame that i understand isnt really "loaded" with your suspension, but that C notch being welded on top with no boxing scares me. Please say that the front half of your setup is boxed and stronger than the rear.
     
  8. NAES
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 491

    NAES
    Member

    Awesome guys, thank you. Ill look into the bolt on axle mount and fab the other bracket.

    The rest of the notch is tubing that p***es through the frame and is boxed and fish plated at all the joints so im feeling pretty good about the strength.

    NAES
     

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