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6-4 Ford falcon with a 170

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Falconaz, Dec 28, 2013.

  1. Falconaz
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 20

    Falconaz
    Member
    from Arizona

    Hello I need help.... Lol.... I have a 1964 falcon with a 170. I can get spark to the dist and spark out of the dist. The engine will crank but wont fire. Plugs are new and gapped, changed oil, new wires, rebuilt carb, new gas tank and Can't seem to get it to start. It's been sitting a while. Any suggestions or pointers?
     
  2. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,846

    butch27
    Member

    Is it getting fuel?
     
  3. cmyhtrod
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 360

    cmyhtrod
    Member
    from ct

    Firing order correct?

    Got compression?
     
  4. Falconaz
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 20

    Falconaz
    Member
    from Arizona

    Yea we triple checked firing order and its correct. I don't know how or have the tools to check compression. We put 4 gallons in the NEW 16 gallon tank. It hasn't started pulling fuel on its own. Checked and replaced all the fuel lines. maybe the fuel pump? Wouldn't we at least get a fire with fuel down the carb though?
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2013
  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,525

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Replace the distributor with a Duraspark II and module. Even if you get the original to work, the design is inferior. The best singe upgrade that you can do to the Falcon-6 is an ignition upgrade.

    My little Falcon 144 climbs the hills of San Francisco, the Sierra Nevada mountains, all with ease, and cruises the freeway at 75mph, all day long.

    When I put in the modern distributor and ignition, it was like night-and-day. It felt like a 25hp. upgrade, to a 90hp. engine.
     
  6. Falconaz
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 20

    Falconaz
    Member
    from Arizona

    That's for sure on the agenda, we just want to get it started first.

    Thanks!
     
  7. kursplat
    Joined: Apr 22, 2013
    Posts: 295

    kursplat
    Member

    did you put fuel in the carb?
    try some starter fluid
     
  8. Falconaz
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 20

    Falconaz
    Member
    from Arizona

    Yea we put a little down the carb but that didnt help. How much would
    Be too much?
     
  9. stuart in mn
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,800

    stuart in mn
    Member

    Did you have the distributor out of the engine? If so make sure you didn't put it back in 180 degrees out of phase.
     
  10. Falconaz
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 20

    Falconaz
    Member
    from Arizona

    No we didn't have it out.
     
  11. kursplat
    Joined: Apr 22, 2013
    Posts: 295

    kursplat
    Member

    doesn't mean someone else didn't. i guess it wasn't running when you got it...
     
  12. Falconaz
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 20

    Falconaz
    Member
    from Arizona

    Good point...How would I tell if its in wrong? The vac on the side faces the correct direction.
     
  13. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,525

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The shaft, and thus the rotor, can be out-of-position, even if the housing is in the correct location.

    Disconnect the coil wire, at the coil.

    Rotate your engine until the timing mark is at 0º. Pull the #1 spark plug, and gently lower a piece of wire and see if you touch the piston, just a little in there. If not, give it another full turn, and check again. DO NOT DROP THE WIRE!

    When you can find the piston at the top of the #1 bore, with the timing mark at 0º, you have found Top Dead Center (TDC).

    Pull the cap, and see where the rotor is pointing. If it is not at the pole that the #1 spark plug wire is attached to, correct it.

    Once you have corrected that, the timing will still be a little off, but should be close enough to get it fired, and then set it properly, as long as nothing else is wrong.
     
  14. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,525

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The distributor drive gear also drives the oil pump. It does so via a hex shaped shaft that inserts into the gear, and the pump. Even without changing the position of that shaft, you can still put the distributor in 5-different ways that are not correct, instead of just one, like some other engines. Super fun!
     
  15. kursplat
    Joined: Apr 22, 2013
    Posts: 295

    kursplat
    Member

    also, if you filled the carb bowl, see if the squirters are putting a shot down the carb when you open the throttle
     
  16. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,008

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pull a plug, leave its ignition wire attached. lay it on the block and have a friend crank the engine. You'll be able to see the plug spark. also perhaps the squirrel is asleep in the wheel.;) Seriously though check for spark that way. I had a comet with a 144. Those ignitions, coils, condensors royaly ****.
     
  17. Falconaz
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 20

    Falconaz
    Member
    from Arizona

    Thank you everyone for the help. One of the first things we tried was checking the plugs by laying one on the block.... Checked 3 and all had good spark. We filled the cab bowl but it doesn't seem to be pulling out any of the fuel. So I don't think it's squirting any either.... I guess ill keep working there.... But I'm just a little confused... Shouldn't I at least get a little fire by pouring a little gas down the carb and cranking it over?
     
  18. 57Custom300
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,425

    57Custom300
    Member
    from Arizona

    A lot of good advise here. Yes it should try to do something when you pour a little gas in it regardless if it's 90, 180 or 47 2/3 degrees out. Makes me think it's something mechanical. Does the engine turn over normally or does it spin like all the plugs are out? Spins over too fast, may be a compression issue (timing chain, rings, valves hung open). Since you don't have the tools, here's a couple "shade tree" things to try. Put your hand over the carb throat and have someone crank the engine over. You should feel a vacuum/suction. No vacuum, internal engine problem (or a choked muffler).You could try the "finger in the hole" compression check, but don't actually put your finger in the spark plug hole or we might have to call you stubby. Use a screwdriver handle & rag to cover the hole & have someone crank it over. You should be able to tell something about the compression. You mentioned in the original post it sat for a long time. The critters didn't make a condo in the muffler did they?
    Where in Az. are you, I'm up in Kingman.
     
  19. kursplat
    Joined: Apr 22, 2013
    Posts: 295

    kursplat
    Member

    pull the coil wire first ;)

    as far as not knowing if gas is going down the carb, just look down it as you opperate the throttle
     
  20. A thumb over the spark plug hole will be adequate for checking compression.

    A timing light will be adequate for checking timing.

    In spite of all the upgrades you CAN do, these cars run very well as bolted together from the factory, as mine will attest.

    A quick spray of starting fluid is far better than dribbling gas down the intake: the starting fluid will evaporate much quicker, and won't be near as likely to wet the plugs.

    Too, if the plugs have been wetted with gas, you will not get the car started until they dry out, so, perhaps try the following, in the order suggested:

    Change the plugs out with fresh. They're cheap, don't you be.

    While the plugs are out, have someone crank the engine while you hold your thumb over any plug hole. Hold it tight, the compressed air should blow out with some good force.

    Now, hold your thumb over the very first (front) plug hole, and turn the engine over by hand. When you start to feel compression, stop. Look at the timing mark, and slowly turn the engine over in the direction of normal rotation ONLY, until they line up. Now, pull the cap off of the distributor, and mark the position of the rotor tip on the outside. Be fair accurate. Put the cap back on, and check that the number one (front) cylinder is in line with that mark. If necessary, change the plug wires to match. You may also have to rotate the distributor to align. Check the firing order from that plug.

    ***emble with new plugs et al.

    Hit the carb intake with a short spray of starting fluid, and crank.

    If it doesn't fire NOW, you've a more serious problem.

    Cosmo
     
  21. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Hey Falconaz, I just saw this now, and if I'm noy mistaken you are in the Phoenix area. If you can't get this up and rollin' give me a yell. If you are not too far away I'll cruise up and take a look for ya. 602 881 0175
     
  22. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,525

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Take the offer for help, man. Websites are cool, but the real-deal is where it is at. There is no such thing as an online community, just a bunch of dudes, sitting in front of computers, in their underwear. Get together!
     
  23. kursplat
    Joined: Apr 22, 2013
    Posts: 295

    kursplat
    Member

    :eek:
    didn't need that vizual...
     
  24. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,525

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's your brain.
     
  25. kursplat
    Joined: Apr 22, 2013
    Posts: 295

    kursplat
    Member

    true, at least i'm not using it right now ;)
     

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