So what do all of you do to stop the inside of the box from rusting. My '36 I painted with zinc primer before welding in the box plates, the '28 I didn't. The '28 is running plates with holes in it so I can get to the body/fender/board bolts, but I don't want it to rust from the inside out. First I need to get out all the rust from inside the boxed area (old rust plus flash rust on new metal), then prime and paint. What I was wondering is if I dip the frame does anyone dip it in primer?. I've heard of electro type primer bonding but not finding too much info.
High tech coating in Santa Ana CA powdercoated my frame with an epoxy primer before I painted it . Excellent coverage and has held up well for the past 5 years and 25K miles .
Hey Phil, They got into all the nooks and crannies?. I'm really concerned with the backside of the boxing plates.
I'm doing a Model A original frame right now. It was sandblasted and etch primed before I started on it. When I made the boxing plates I painted the back with a zinc rich primer as well as the inside of the frame. If you don't fill all the holes you can also treat it with a rust proofing treatment. BUT, my 29 Chevy tourer has been on the road for years in all weather conditions with out any paint or treatment inside the frame and shows no signs of rust. I live in Australia but I know California is supposed to be pretty dry. Are you planning to visit places that salt the roads in winter?
The way I look at it with the amount of use these cars get they will never rust badly from the inside out. The only worry may be the rust stains that could leak out of the weap holes that should be drilled in the low points of the inside of boxed areas. Bob
Provided you can still access the inside of your frame you could spray KROWN tm or a similar product in there. It is common to use in my neck of the woods on our daily drivers. The stuff creeps everywhere...you spray it in your doors or frame and it will creep up and out of every crack and crevice...excellent protection from rust.
Has anyone tried the Eastwood spray with the flex tube? I think someone mentioned two cans to do their A frame
Unless you are one year old and expect to live and own the car to the ripe old age of 100, rust inside the frame should never be a structural concern for you. Clean and paint what you can see through the holes.
undercoat.I live in Iowa, rust capitol of the USA. in a Ford dealership I used to work at, the washrack guy would use a 4' long wand that sprayed undercoat inside the frame and doors. it had a 90* nozzle on the end so it sprayed out the side of the wand. I am thinking of taking a cheep weed sprayer like home depot sells, the 1 gallon hand pump style, to do the inside of my already rusty 1939 Ford coupe frame. just a thought.
Napa sells a rust proofing unit for about $70,,kit includes the spray gun, 4' wand and two flexible spray hoses,,I have had one for 10 years.
If the zinc primer you used on the 36 was weld thru primmer, you used the wrong product for your application. All rust should be removed prior to boxing. Epoxy primer should be applied to with in 1/2" of the weld zone. After welding body wax can then be applied through access holes or drain holes. If you have existing rust, your best bet now would be a rust conversion or rust sealing product. This is on of the few situations I will use these products. Never on exposed ares where the rust can be removed.
I can speak up for the Eastwood stuff with the tube...I REALLY liked it. I don't recall how many cans I got, but it was one or two more than they recommended. I wanted to be sure it was coated WELL. Don't skrimp... Let that stuff pour out any holes you have on the bottom of the frame. That's how I knew that it was spraying good volume. Check out my build thread....I think I have some pics on there when I did it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I like to over think sometimes, but with the large holes in the boxing plates water and debris will get inside and rot. I like the hose with a jet idea, I spent time and $$ on it so I want it to last for the 3rd or 4th owner .
Do what you feel is necessary but by the time a boxing plate rots out well all be dead and nobody will be driving these cars. its the next guys problem. F#$k the next guy
My 38 Chevy and 49 Ford never had any rust proofing on the interior of the rails and are still holding the car up, like previous posters have said, the frame barring an accident will out last all of us.
Good! Why go to all that work to build a car, and skimp on something as cheap and easy, and basic as rust protection.
Perfect application for a cavity wax/rust inhibitor type product, short of a dip and or e-coat process you'll never really be able to prep those internal surfaces properly for a conventional paint system. Blow the frame out with the compressor and hose that **** in there, wipe off the excess after applying then again a day or two later when it's creeped everywhere and kind of gelled up (after paint of course). Sleep easy knowing that you're car will outlast you and bolts will come out easy instead of rusting and seizing up.
People use linseed oil inside bicycle frames to stop the rusting. You'd have to seal up the holes and rotate the frame around for a while, but it works. There's also a product called Framesaver that we use in the bicycle shop. People tell me the line about p***ing away before the frame rusts blah blah blah. Moisture leaks rusty **** out vent or drain holes. That's ugly.
KBS coatings has a new product out that is a creeping, waxy, oily stuff. I think they call it cavity wax. It is made for just this purpose.
I don't always agree with Adam but I have to back him up this time,,IMHO your over thinking this. HRP
I'm in the process of boxing my deuce frame and also wondered about the inside of the frame rails. I am using a pair of repo rails that are bare metal, the moisture here in Alabama has already rusted the surfaces so they need to be sanded and painted. I bought a couple of cans of Rust-oleum "High Heat enamel for the inside rails, and on the backside of the plates, it should hold up pretty well when welding in the plates. "Thinking inside the box!" I might also shoot some undercoat in after the welding is done....
The only problem as I see it with painting and then welding,,what do you think happens when you start welding in the boxing plate,,the excessive heat is going to blister and burn the paint off. The frame is not going to rust away during our lifetime. HRP
Any good paint jobber will have auto body cavity wax. If you feel you need it just spray it inside the rails. As said before, it will creep EVERYWHERE. You will find the stuff coming out small holes on a warm day so use it sparingly
Tcpglobal.com and eastwood both sell flexible extension wands for a shutz gun, these guns are used to shoot undercoating and bedliner. You could fill the shutz gun with thinned por15, or your choice of rust paint. http://www.eastwood.com/undercoatin...=54067667487&gclid=CLKe3e_M2rsCFWUV7Aodqm0Aog I like the U Pol gun that tcp gobal sells, the extension wands are on the site but you have to look around or give them a call. The eastwood set up looks pretty good, I've just never used it.
I put my boxed frame on a rotisserie. Poured thinned Rustoleum down thru the top body mount holes and flipped the frame around and around. Raised the front, then the rear.then drilled a 1/4" hole on the lowest point of the bottom frame rail for any water to drain out. Then thru the frame horns in the front, Took a long rod with a rag soaked with paint. Dragged it in and out. I don't know if I got every nook, but I figured water would lay in the bottom and there is a lot of paint in the bottom. Ago
One restorer I know just uses a stiff piece of #9 wire to push and pull a rag soaked in rustolium through body channels and boxed sections of frames.
I'm guessing, some of you guys have never had to repair a rusted out frame. Forget about rustolium. Epoxy, (before boxing)followed by cavity wax.(after welding) I've never known a professional to use rustolium for anything more important than a lawn chair.
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