Help with lowering 54 chevy truck

My buddy has a nice, original 54 chevy truck.

He would like to know what the easiest, cheapest(i.e. least expensive) way to lower it.
The rear is a no-brainer, but what is a good way to do the frontend, without MII, or subframe.

He wants it to ride ok, which I told him may not be an option. But he wants it lowered alot.

Thanks

 

pull 3 leefs out of the front, cheapest easiest way.

 

Cl***ic performance products offers a 3 inch drop axle, not cheap or easy but it will leave some suspension travel and will be easy to go back to stock if he ever wants to.

 

im in the same situation with my '56 truck. Looking for the cheapest, easiest, best riding way there is. IM sure all 3 of those dont go together . Taking out 3 leafs will amount to how much of a drop? How bad will the ride be? How are the mono leaf fronts?

Grumpy, does your buddy plan to flip the springs in the rear?

 

Doesn't Posies sell a set of dropped springs for these trucks?

Anyone have experience with this?

Thanks

 

I would not waist my time on alternate methods.
He can buy a whole M2 setup for around 1200. Pm me if you need a source for setup.
He's not going to believe the difference.
I went through the alternate routes before on my 50.
Hard headed and cheap as I was. Stupidest thing I've ever done.
Finally after driving it for five years i threw in M2 and always wondered why i put it off.

 

Eaton Spring can make the springs for you. Tell them what you have and how low you want it.

http://www.eatonsprings.com/

 

'63 to '87 C-10 front suspension is practically a bolt-in, isn't it?

 

MII front end is easiest and cheapest in the END. If it were a open wheeled truck then I would say keep the straight axle but it's not and you won't see much of it so go with a MII. They ride much better, easy to get parts for because everyone and their sister has one, easy to lower, etc. Get a kit from something like Fat Man's or such and they come with instructions and shows you exactly how to put them in.....
Good luck!

 

I run a 4 inch dropped axle in mine. I think it cost about $375 to have the stock axle dropped. It's not hi-tech or fancy but it get's the job done for now. The mustang II is probably the better option in the long run if you want a better ride, air bags, etc. It's all what you wanna spend.

 

RSG - What did you do for the rear out of curiosity?

 

Thanks for the info. A MII is out of the question now. $400-$600 is max budget for frontend right now.

And Isn't there a place that sells already 3-4in dropped axles for these?

 

Before I decided on a Firebird clip, I was contemplating the same problem. It would appear that you can mount the stock axle on top of the springs. A flat mount plate would have to be fabricated and welded to the bottom of the axle and longer U-bolts would be needed. By removing the stock rubber bumper, you gain back all of the clearance to the frame that you lose by putting the axle on top. Caster would have to be set when the mount plate is welded on. I haven't tried this method but the theory looks good. One way to find out.

pigpen

 

You can use a 73-87 to get the disc brakes and it is almost a bolt in but its to wide, even if you use off set wheels, it still sticks out of the fenders. Its the easiest IFS if you can live with the tires slighly out of the fenders. Its easier than an MII.

I used this IFS on a 58 3100, narrowed the rails in the front and it looks ok because its a wider fender to fender truck.

I have seen where someone has narrowed the subframe but that barely gets you what you need to be in the wells.

 

see my above post

 

Well if a MII is out of the question then get yourself a S10 ch***is. Will work with a little modification and mods on the body mounts and that's it. You will have lots of options for a S10 ch***is too for the front and back and if you keep the original 235 or whatever motor you have then you can use the S10 rear end, etc and probably find a late 80's one for pretty cheap at a junk yard with a total **** body.

 

Monoleafs will get it down some and still ride decent.

 

Rob,
I have 2.5 inch lowering blocks in the rear.

-Rich

 

My truck was setup with the axle over the springs when I bought it. There was only about an inch between the axle and the oilpan. The pitman arm and draglink were severly out of alignment too and it would bind on the tierod when I would turn. You need to modify the frame and mounting of the motor to make that work. I s****ped that whole setup and just had my stock axle dropped. I had to modify the steering slightly but everything else works much nicer.

Dave Mann at http://www.roadsters.com/welcome/ did my axle. If I were to do it again, I would only drop it 3 inches as opposed to 4. The scrub line is a little too low with the tires (205/65/15) I'm running on it now. Like I said before, the MII is probably the best way go but the dropped axle is the simple (traditional) way to do it without having to hack up your frame or limit your options (MII) in the future.

 

Good info...

 

How does flipping the front springs under the solid axle work out? Is this doable?

 

Mono leafs from Cl***ic Performance.

http://www.cl***icperform.com/Store/1947_59_Trucks/4754CTFR.htm

 

Thanks. I am aware of those, just looking at alternative ways.

 

I knew there was a reason that I went with the Firebird clip. It must have been ESP. Thanks for the info.

pigpen

 

i ran a 3 inch drop axle and had my leafs de arched. dropped it about 6 inches in front. the bumper sat about 4 inches off the ground. look's real good, but rides like ****.

 

my friend has a '67 chevy van with the same similar set up in the front. it sits low enough to drive but not on the ground like bags will get you. i am probally going to flip my axle in one of my trucks and get a dodge dakota set up from industrial ch***is later for my other truck. its a work in progress