how do i convert stock model a front suspension to disc brakes?

I guess I didn't say "register" to actually mean "register", probably should have said to locate.

 

If I am using '37-'48 spindles (round or square) on a "A" axle, do I need the hubs to run rotors on it, or do I just use rotors that have bearings?

Pat

 

So the next question I have, what grade steel is used to make the adapter? Or would a machinist already know that?

 

The disc brake set-ups that I have put on use the late model rotor/hub combo with a bearing spacer on the spindle snout. And you usually have to switch the races in the rotor/hub to the ones supplied with the kit.

 

Actually "I" knew what you meant, but I wanted to clarify so it wasnt repeted directly from someone who doesnt understand. I know YOU know the difference, but others, not so much.

Mild steel is fine.

 

Anybody bothered to point out yet that disc brakes don't work with a mechanical brake system?

Oh, wait, some genius just gave us example 1,367,981 why old threads should auto-lock after 6-12 months of inactivity.

 

ThankyouThankyouThankyouThankyouThankyou!

 

Have you checked speed ways prices. You may end up with more in your fabed unit.

 

Yep! I did some research since the last post and going this route will be a bit more labor and creativity intensive but it'll be a fraction of the cost. Autozone/Napa whatever your preference even keep a bunch of the parts in stock. Shouldn't be long and I'll have a fully functioning front end for cheap! I can figure out the looks later.

 

Thanks, I just wanted to find out, if one way was better, or preferred over the other.
I most likely will make the mounts, and spacers myself, and buy the right seals, and bearings.

Pat

 

So I've made some progress since the last time I posted here. I know it's been awhile but I've been working on other sections of my build while I accrued the parts for the brakes. So far I've only taken pics of how the spacers and bearings fit with the brake disc. It looks good and spins nice when and the clearances are good! I'll post more when I get the brackets finished.
The spindle threads are longer now though since the set up is different and the castle nut goes below the hole for the cotter pin. Can anyone give me advice if I can drill a hole further down on the spindle, or use a nylock (with a tabbed washer against the bearing) or if I could use a spacer? As always I appreciate the direction.

 

Usually use a spacer (like comes with some disc brake kits) under the keyed washer; but once when the dust cap was too shallow to fit I drilled a new hole and shortened the end of the spindle a little. Never count on a lock nut on a spindle. Curious why you left the factory grease seals on the spindles.

 

Those metal lips at the base of the spindles? They're attached. Do people cut them off? Or are they pressed in? I thought they were part of the spindle.

 

???

 

The grease rings are just pressed on and are easily removed with a small chisel under the outer edge.

 

Wow, I ask a similar question a year ago and get my *** handed to me, gotta be traditional they said, discs aren't. So..........

 

So let them build their stuff their way. This is my car. But if you sir are still asking how to go about it I have some more pics of the process and little considerations I've run into. Happy to share! Pm me and I'll give you my personal email.
Rich B: You're brilliant!! I'll knock those ****ers out this weekend! Thanks for the info!

 

Bob, I work offshore and work on my 30 ford when I am home. Been building it out of all old original parts. I like your disk brake ideas I didn't see what bearing and race you used just wondering if you still have that in formation. I put a 40 ford flat head V8 in mine and would like more stopping power

 

If your Model A is stock and you intend to leave it pretty much that way there may be two problems. You had better double check that the stock wire wheels will fit over the disc brakes and if they fit the disc brakes will throw dust all over the wire wheels. If cost is a consideration I would go 1940-48 Ford brakes. If the budget is larger I would go the reproduction Lincoln Bendix brakes. You can get an adapter to run the stock wire wheels on either of these set ups.

Charlie Stephens

 

Do the spacers need to be press fit?

 

Yes.

 

Thank you. I made one spacer today on my break at work and will make the other tomorrow. This info was great.

 

It would be interesting to hear what went wrong with your conversion to drum brakes.

Charlie Stephens