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clutch has no pressure

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 33FDPU, Jan 8, 2014.

  1. 33FDPU
    Joined: Dec 22, 2013
    Posts: 24

    33FDPU
    Member

    I just installed a new T5 to my flathead.

    when I bought the truck it had a S10 T5 but we wanted to change the gears so I bought a new T5. it is identical to what I had other that the input shaft is 26 spline and the new clutch disk to mate it up. the thickness is the same as the old set up was brand new.
    the only issue we had was the gears and the slight noise it made when you didn't have the clutch depressed.

    it has been a challenge getting it installed but we final got it in.

    the throw out bearing was very tight on the pressure plate, so we took it out and adjusted it. we connected the fork to the slave and return spring.

    the peddle goes nearly to the floor before I get any movement out of the
    slave cylinder . fluid is full, no leaks, we never removed anything other than the fork and spring from the booster.

    do I have to bleed the system?

    can I test the slave and master?

    should the throw out bearing be resting on the pressure plate with NO pressure on the clutch peddle?

    I have a speedway adapter, correct pilot bearing and new throw out bearing from speedway too. T5 Camaro WC, with S10 Tail shaft. 26 spline.
    26 spline 10" clutch and old pressure plate.

    any suggestion is appreciated
     
  2. 33FDPU
    Joined: Dec 22, 2013
    Posts: 24

    33FDPU
    Member

    Nobody has any suggestions or comments?
     
  3. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,929

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    Hydraulic clutch probably needs bled. Or something in the movement of the clutch fork changed. The TO bearing should not ride against the clutch, there is a small spring that holds it away.
     
  4. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,684

    birdman1
    Member

    they can be a ****** to bleed. is the master cylinder higher than the slave? better is it is. make sure you have the correct size master cylinder to work the slave, too small won't get it. I adjust the throw-out bearing so it just touches the fingers. keep at it, bleeding is a bit time consuming.
     
  5. 33FDPU
    Joined: Dec 22, 2013
    Posts: 24

    33FDPU
    Member

    Thanks birdman and RMR

    I will ck and see if the master is higher, I don't believe it is.. think it is in line.

    just odd that it worked great when I took out the old unit and now it seems to shot..

    I'll work at it.. nothing is binding or different than before...

    THANKS AGAIN!!
     
  6. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,820

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Air in the system, and if the master is lower it needs to be pressure or vacuum bled to force the air pocket out.
     
  7. 33FDPU
    Joined: Dec 22, 2013
    Posts: 24

    33FDPU
    Member

    the master has a bleeder and the slave has a bleeder.

    going to buy a pneumatic bleeder today... what one do I bleed ..

    the slave? the Master or BOTH?

    THANK AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP
     
  8. gas pumper
    Joined: Aug 13, 2007
    Posts: 2,960

    gas pumper
    Member

    I have had good results by taking the slave off and letting it hang down with the bleeder in a better position and bleeding and cycling with it disconnected til the air bubbles all come out. Then hooking back up.
     
  9. DoubleJ52
    Joined: Jul 15, 2007
    Posts: 237

    DoubleJ52
    Member
    from Belton, MO

    I would bleed both to be sure all the air is gone.
     
  10. Leadsled51
    Joined: Dec 21, 2001
    Posts: 333

    Leadsled51
    Member

    I have a hydraulic slave and master cyl and for some reason it was a ***** to get bled. Thought I was doing something wrong, but finally got it. Just keep going till you get decent pedal. It should move fairly soon after pushing the pedal, not when it's almost all the way to the floor.
     

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