.......Got playing around at work with the turbos on the cats (big v-16's all most 5000 cubes) and got talking with the other motor man about the wastegate and decided to see if a homemade one could be made from s**** we had lying around.......after a couple of hours of playing with pipe sizes and testing off the intake ports of the big cat i came up with a design that would be easily produced from parts at a hardware store..........parts were ***embled in this order from the intake....one small/ low pressure air regulator (a 1/4 ball valve worked but might move under vibration)....one 6"long 1/4" diam. pipe......one 1/4" T .........one guage on top (we need a smaller guage ours wouldn't read under 5 psi)..........one 1/4" to 1/8" reducer..........one 4" long pipe 1/8" diam. .........one 1/8" to 1/2" reducer.........one 1/2" checkvalve.......... By reducing the mid pipe size between the checkvalve and the T the checkvalve didn't blow early and held psi at 8psi before it started to leak air out....by hooking it up to an air line and playing with a regulator it would bleed out enough pressure to stay around 8 to 10 psi................. ....useing a larger pipe between the checkvalve and T would cause the check valve to pop at a lower psi..............a smaller pipe between the check valve and the T would cause it to blow later........as much as 15 psi........ .....i am still at work and have about a week and a half left out here and going to do some more testing on pipe size and length(haven't done a lot of testing on pipe length).........i know where a small turbo is and try it out on a car when i get home...........any other hamber dream up any other mods to this set up............
No, But I've been scheming for years to use a Buick Grand National turbo in a Slant 6 Mopar Powered Roadster using a Cortez Motorhome Sidedraft intake, 5.0 Mustang throttle body and the EFI/Ignition from a '82-'85 Batch-Fire, M***-Air 3.8 Buick V-6. All I need is some JB Weld and a Half-Off weekend at Pick-N-Pull.
For a computer have you looked at a MEGASQUIRT system.......you can get them for under 200 dollars and program them with a laptop.....can't remember the web address ........try typeing MEGASQUIRT into a search engine.....if you can't find it i have the addy in a book in my room........
it releases extra boost pressure on turbo/supercharged engines typically when you quickly back off the throttle and the throttle blades snap shut. that's why the ricers make that annoying squeak when they shift. they get extra loud wastegates, or blow/popoff valves.
Actually it releases pressure to limit the amount of boost to the system. I haven't bought one in a while, but a good quality adjustable wastegate doesn't cost that much, does it? ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" It's been so long since I've had ***, I can't remember who gets tied up.
....It's not that they cost a lot..........just trying to see if i could "junkyard" one..........it works ok.....but i want to test it out on a turbo on a v-8 i have at home........i know where a small turbo is and going to try to adapt it to a 75 302 i have lying around.........just for a little experiment........haven't had the chance to try it out on an engine with a varied load.......... AND by the way.........the type of checkvalve i used is the flat disk type that is spring loaded.........not the ball type.......or the door flapper type ....if anyone else is playing with the same thing..........
The reason I said that is...you can seriously screw up an engine by putting too much boost to it. If you've got a spare engine to experiment with then of course have some fun. Don't know how much you know about these things... A small turbo on a 302? What's it off of? In order to get a turbo to work right, it needs to be matched to the engine. Are you running carb or FI? If carb you'll need to pull through it, or build a box around it to pressurize the entire thing - then run a pressure feed to the fuel pump to overcome the carb pressure. Lots of variables to consider when putting s**** peices together. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert funny!
Ill be doing a blow through setup on my 66 stang coupe. Ive got quite a bit of knowledge on this subject. The wastegate releases exhaust from the primary pipes into the downpipe to limit the amount going into the exhaust housing on the turbo. A blow off valve releases pressure in the charge pipe when the throttle plate closes so it cannot double back into the turbo spinning is backwards. If you do a blow through setup, a double pump holley works best. You have to modify the metering blocks and power valve for boost. You also need to change the br*** floats to the black solid plastic float(forgot what kind of plastic they are made of) Your fuel pump will need to be able to flow the amount of fuel needed. the aeromotive A1000 is a good choice. You will also need to use the A1000 regulator so you will get the needed amount of fuel for the givin boost you are running. Thats is just basics. There are many other factors needed to have a reliable turbo setup on a v-8.
While not a wastegate, there is a guy on the Stude dark side that turbo'd his Champ six flathead Stude engine and put on a neat boost limiter. He limited the boost on his Champ six by installing an inline filler neck with a 16 pound radiator cap. Worked great... Jeff (sometimes simplicity can be elegant) Rice
I know how to set up for boost...........have helped several friends set up there supercharger on 3 gen mustangs...........it is a low compression (7.5) 302 (someone put the 69 cc heads on it) and have time to play with it....... with smaller turbo i know the boost levels won't be that high.......going with a larger wastegate and test and tune with 93 Octane(with booster).....can retard the timeing with a MSD 7AL-3 i have saved up for my 69 mustang drag car.......just moneys been TIGHT with me lately.....been trying to build a new house........family has outgrown the 3 bed room i have.........if it works out i will put this setup on my 86 roller motor in the shop.........at least i will know the systems limits....you can only learn so much from books.....the only true teacher is experence..........another odd ball project i have done in the past is useing an old CO2 bottle(large) to pressure up a pvc pipe 90 deg i had put on a over sized carb..........had a tube going to the 90 with a cable controled valve in it.....had a flapper valve on the side of the 90 to **** in more air so car wouldn't die if the BOOT from the bottle with regulator ran out.......worked out ok.........i could fell the car had more power but never had a way to confirm this..............if this don't work i may try to refine this system..........i have it stored in my shop...........if i can work it out it would work good on the drag strip or for other quick stoplight action.........
That would be my screw up........i thought it would bleed off the pressure from the intake size.........that is where i have been testing it........trying to get it where it blows at about 5 to 6 psi........not a really serious project just something to keep me busy while i save up enough money to get the rest of the parts for my 34 coupe.........i want to do it right.............and you never know........i might come up with something worth a **** i can run on an "undercover" car..............
The radiator cap trick is used in place of a waste gate -- a "poor man's" blow-off valve. I've seen setups with two caps on the air tube between the turbo and carb. Have to be able to get rid of enough volume, and the radiator cap deal only has a little 1/4" ****** to bleed air from. I've thought about a home made setup (blow-off valve) too, but a lot simpler than yours. Just a T in the air tube (about 1") witha flapper valve on it. I picture something like one of the bigger valves on a saxophone. You just need a way to anchor a spring on it. Stiffer spring, more pressure. Finding springs of varying stiffness and in the right steps might be a problem, but I'm considering a low pressure setup (5-10 psi). I'm not really concerned if the blow-off is at 6.5 psi instead of 5. One question for the turbo gurus -- do you need both a waste gate AND a blow-off, or can you have one or the other? I know one is needed at a minimum. One of my ideas is to run dual small turbos on a V-8 -- remote mounted. I know I'll have to match the turbos to the engine to get the best results, but I'm like Model40-770 -- this is for experimnetation at first, and I'm not concerned about getting max power from it. The plan is to start with a pair of Chrysler 2.2L turbos (or similar) on an AMC GEN-1 287 V-8, blow thru EFI (not sure if I'll go port or throttle body injection yet). The turbos will be on the end of traditional headers with no more than 24" between collector and turbo. The car will be a 61-63 Rambler American (about the size as same vintage Falcon/Chevy II). The rear foot wells will be cut out and "flipped" -- instead of sinking down they will come up to make room for the turbos. Turbos will be angled in and turned so that the exhaust will dump will be straight and exit right in front of the rear tire. Intakes will turn up and gor through the floor into the body for air. Air tubes will also come up into the body and run across the top of the driveshaft tunnel then under the dash and through the firewall to the engine compartment. Since I don't have to worry to much about flow in the intake, it will be a home made rig looking similar to two log exhaust manifolds. Tubes will be welded to a flange on the head and curve up toward the center, where two tubes will be side by side pointing back to the firewall. If I can get a 2V TBI setup big enough (2.5"-3" openings), I'll mount that on the end. Otherwise I'll use a pair of 1V TBI units. Of course I can use throttle bodies and weld injector bungs in the tubes close to the flange. EFI will just be easier to work with than a carb. I'm only looking for 400-500 hp... I've been thinking about a similar setup for my 63 wagon (it's EFI now, modified Jeep 4.0L), with just 4-7 psi though, and mounting the turbo further back. It would be more like a standard Squires Turbo Sytems (www.ststurbo.com) remote mount.
wategates are on the exhaust side to byp*** the turbine to keep from over spinning it....they also limit the boost made by the turbo. a blow off valve will release excess pressure. these are normally plumbed to manifold vac so they can open when you shift to keep from stalling the turbo when the pressure wave bounces off the throttle plates. <---- has a blow through carb turbo in his fairlane on the little falcon six in it. no fancy box just a plain carb bonnet (came off a propane truck)
And what you built is a "boost controller" and its going to work like ***. It just limits boost/va***e to your wastegate so it wont open and u build more psi. I tried some home made one before to and they dont dial in worth **** and spike really bad. Just buy one there so cheep.
a friend of mine built his own for his twin turbo datsun 210, when they let off it sounded like the f*ing jetsons going by (funny ****)
I've helped build several systems & none of them had a blow-off; just a wastegate (adjustable). The system you describe above sounds like it will have a LOT of turbo lag. Headers are not really nessasary with a turbo; you can just run tubing from stock manifolds to each turbo (right next to the engine). ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Get a new car for your spouse - it'll be a great trade!
You can compensiate for turbo lag by haveing a jet aimed at the exhaust wheel........when you want to spool up quick just hit the valve on a co2 bottle (yea i have used air for a lot of ****) tried this on a t-bird with 2.3 I-4 that car lagged bad..........never had the turbo off..........as far as hooking up a supercharge i have that in the bag..........just going to have to do some more studying on the exhaust side...........
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