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Project Barn Burner: 1960 Chev truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Saskrodder, Apr 2, 2013.

  1. Saskrodder
    Joined: Apr 2, 2013
    Posts: 4

    Saskrodder
    Member

    Hey guys, newbie here looking for some tips & tricks with a build... I purchased a 1960 Chev 1/2 ton Short Box Step Side this past summer off an old farmer in the area. I've always had a soft spot for the "eyebrow" hood trucks. The truck isn't in the best of shape as the floor needs to be patched and some welding needed to be done to the rear fenders but I'm not worried about that as my goal is to build a "shop truck" or "rat rod" style truck. My job is a week on week off type so I want to build a cheap, low budget, Do it yourself project.

    The plans for the truck are to swap out the original straight 6 for a 350 with a 5 speed manual trans.

    I'm looking for some tips and tricks on lowering the truck to a nice ride height without air bags. I'm all for swapping out the front end and rear end for a newer style. Is it as easy as cranking down then torsion bars and cutting the rear springs a bit?

    Thank you in advance for the input and advice!!

    Jordan
     
  2. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    You might want to remove the double "R" word from your post, they are heavily frowned on around here. Do you work in the oilfield?
     
  3. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,022

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    I've got a '61 Suburban that I've lowered a couple inches--crank the T-bars down up front and have it realigned.
    out back, you have to buy new springs because they're pig-tailed on both ends and can't just be cut.
    I THINK there's jeep springs that are a bolt-in and lower them... do a search here, and you'll find it.
    The front suspension is very expensive to rebuild, though someone finally made new ball joints that aren't $150 each, so the cost has come down considerably.
    I'm going to redo mine with dropped spindles at some point... but I've been saying that for the last 60,000 miles.

    Have you found out why they call it a "Knee-knocker cab" yet? :D

    -Brad
     
  4. clemsoncrewman
    Joined: Jan 22, 2009
    Posts: 501

    clemsoncrewman
    Member

    Brothers Truck Parts is running a sale right now on all of their lowering parts. 3" drop springs in the front and 4" drop springs in the back sits nice and you can do it for less than $200 right now. Pair that with some 215/75r15's in the front and the same in the rear or 235/75r15's in the back for some rake.
    The Jeep springs that Brad54 is talking about are the stock Wrangler TJ springs. Good for 4" in the rear. Pretty soft though.
     
  5. junkman8888
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 1,070

    junkman8888
    Member

    Greetings! The best option for the money is to replace the torsion bar front cradle with one from a '73 or later pickup, they come with disk brakes, power steering, use cheaper rebuild parts, some have front sway bars. Drop spindles are a better choice than lowering springs, with drop spindles you can retain the stock suspension travel and you don't have to use longer bolts and lots of shims to get a proper alignment.
     
  6. mashed
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,474

    mashed
    Member
    from 4077th

    Find yourself an S10...
     
  7. robber grin
    Joined: May 26, 2003
    Posts: 464

    robber grin
    Member

    Hey Jordan - Welcome to the H.A.M.B.

    I love these old trucks and we have a 62 shortwide big back window "in the works".

    I love the early hood as well and have been trying to get my truck where it at least rolls so I can make room in my garage for some big panel work.

    I grabbed a 61 hood off another hamber but it will need some work in the corners / braces.

    I went with the 78 front clip with 3" drop coils and 2 1/2 drop spindles - but as you can see there are a variety of options as well as opinions on what works the best.

    Let us know what you decide and how it's going - pics are always cool too.

    Best of luck-
    rg
     
  8. peter schmidt
    Joined: Aug 26, 2007
    Posts: 660

    peter schmidt
    Member
    from maryland

    Love those trucks square body crossmembers are litteraly allmost bolt in for easy disk brakes and front coils or crank the torsion bars and make up some drop blocks for the rear you will have to get longer u bolts made up from a spring shop or buy them online or you could allways buy drop rear springs
     
  9. Saskrodder
    Joined: Apr 2, 2013
    Posts: 4

    Saskrodder
    Member

    Lol sorry forgot about the double R word! Whoops! And yes I do work in the oil field at a rail car loading facility.
     
  10. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,367

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I thought so from your week on/week off schedule. I shoulda looked at your avatar. I've got the 2 weeks on/off deal down here, drilling for oil.
     
  11. sntos63
    Joined: Nov 6, 2013
    Posts: 33

    sntos63

    Congrats on your 60 apache! What I did with my 63 C10 was put a '71 C10 front crossmember (hub to hub, swaybar, booster, steering arm and all) in it.. Drilled a few more bolt holes and it fit right in.. The '71 rear end also bolts right in.. Used 3" dropped spindles, 1.5" dropped springs up front, and 4" dropped springs, 2" blocks in rear... ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1389473916.611817.jpg
    Hope this helps.. Any old C10 '71 to early '80s suspension will work... Long as it's 1/2 ton..


    TRADITION NEVER DIES!
     
  12. mashed
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,474

    mashed
    Member
    from 4077th

    Saskrodder's last activity was in June of last year.

    Don't think you're much help.
     

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