I found an aluminum flywheel for a sbc and was thinking I could use it on my four banger Chevy ii engine with a t5. Can I? And for the life of me I can't remember what tooth count I need for a 153 and a t5
Yes you can, just have to use the bellhousing for whatever it is you are using, 153 or 168 tooth. Now I am not sure if all the 153 blocks were drilled for 3 bolt holes for the starter, if not you will only be able to use the 153 tooth or drill and tap the block for the offset hole.
To be fair I plan on using a late model 3.0 forklift block and it has one piece rear main seal Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Do you think the aluminum flywheel will have the "drivability" of a heavier flywheel behind a 4 cylinder?
I wouldn't do it on a street car; a light flywheel doesn't absorb the firing pulses like a heavy one does and you'll feel every cylinder hit. Great for a race car, not so good on the street. I used one on a big FE Ford in the early 70s, and while the 'instant revs' was fun (if I wacked the throttle once or twice, that would usually scare off any street racers), the vibration under full cry was brutal; I was always chasing rattles/loose fasteners in that car.... And this motor was fully balanced. Fewer cylinders, more vibration. There's a reason why Harley twins have 35 lb flywheels...
We put a 2nd design L88 in a buddy's 66 Chevelle sometime around 70. He'd come up with a new aluminum flywheel in some trading and decided to put it in during the engine swap. The car had a 3,36 axle and wide ratio Muncie. With the aluminum flywheel it was near impossible to start off smooth and not jerky. And once the car was moving it was about as dangerous as a ****ed gun. Poke the throttle at 50mph and you'd be crossways in the road if you weren't real careful. And just plain forget driving it on a wet road. Changed it back to a cast iron flywheel after about a month and that got rid of all the squirrely driveability problems.
Yeah, I didn't mention that. The FE had a pretty heavy reciprocating ***embly so wasn't really touchy on takeoff (mine was a 4-speed car too), but you couldn't just stab the throttle with abandon or it would smoke the tires. You had to exercise restraint when driving it.... It needed much bigger rear tires, but that would have killed it's 'sleeper' profile.... My wife at the time made me sell it, she was afraid I'd end up a greasy smear somewhere. That car still holds my personal record for the number of times the p***enger seat got peed on.... LOL!
It sounds like I had better just get a cast one something tells me that the alloy one would shake the car apart and rev to the moon. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
inertia of a heavy flywheel makes starting from a dead stop by keeping the rpms up when releasing the clutch making for a smooth start.
Not so fast; IF the alum flywheel is not any less than 2/3rd's the weight of the stock flywheel then i would personally go for it. Or at least try both and compare.
Your low 1st gear in the T5 and 4.11 rear are what saved you. Put a muncie in it and a higher gear and you'll be swapping back soon. If the OP were putting this engine in a T bucket or something crazy lightweight then he might be pleased with it though.
There will always be people standing in line to tell you "You shouldn't try that". Once in a great while they might be right, but more often not.
My thoughts exactly. Depends on the intended use of the car for sure, but lightened drive train components usually conjure visions of big revs and mega holeshots. it will be interesting to see the results.
Willie, I can't remember- what ARE you putting the 153 in? Thanks, Bill PS- Great to see you back on the HAMB Pn'B!!!
Its going in a 1928 model a sedan on duece rails with a t5 and a quickchange gonna be pretty light and it will be the 3.0 liter version of a Chevy ii Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Mac, Thanks. Will, Most of the GM bangers don't make a lot of zot down low. The heavier flywheel would help you overcome that. That said, what you experience with lightened flywheel, or any other lightening to your rotating ***embly is quicker response to the throttle and quicker drop off of revs when you shut the *air off. I personally like a lightened lower end, but it is not for everyone, you have to drive it. If you are going to run a lightened flywheel you are going to want a low first gear (I think the T-5 gives you that). If you are not running a deep gear what you will experience is going to be like a land speed car, you are going to need 5 miles to get it up to speed. Does that make any sense? *shut air off=close throttle
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