so i have a major concern, my oil pan is low, real low, can i use a circle track oil pan instead of a stock? i know i will have to replace the oil pump pick up, but are there any problems with running a circle track oil pan??
If "low, real low" is less than about 5", that's not low, it's broken pan, unwound drain plug, stupid low. That doesn't happen to guys who know how to build cars so it must be a car you bought and never inspected before you bought it, yesz? Search for "scrub line", then inspect your car and see how much else you have to change to be safe.
I run one on my 33 ford coupe and it works just fine, it actually holds more oil than the stock pan . Speedway has them and the pickup for cheep ...
A circle track pan would work really well if you made only left turns. I would think that a roadrace pan where the sump is on both sides would be the way to go.
Cold and Harsh is a Chicago speed bump with your sump's name. And it WILL take it out without trying. Raising the engine/trans is the best option, and like many 'best' options, it's the hardest. Cosmo
My (late) friend 10 years ago, 32 roadster SBC die-cast aluminum oil pan with drain plug on bottom. We pulled in a gas station and he hit a raised manhole for filling underground tanks. Ripped the drain plug and the back of pan out and dumped all the oil out. (flat two job). Ago
if the pan bottom is too close to the crank you really wouldn't need a pump as it will be in the oil and the windage will throw it on the parts like a big briggs and stratton . raise the motor .
Google scrub line I'd raise the entire frame from the ground and then channel the body back down to where you have it.
Please tell us more about the wrong tie rod. I've always wonder how front tie rods can be setup to work correctly or can't they???
Ding ding. I agree. It's a sedan, you'll have the room. Channel it and maybe go to a non dropped axle?4"
I suppose they can, though you never see it in this case. Where the tie rod connects to the spindle should be "outside" width-wise of the kingpins. So you could draw a straight line from the center of the rear end to the tie rod connection point and intersect the kingpin. That's Ackerman. EDIT: Here's a nice diagram I stole off the internet. You can see it references normal spindle location, but I think it displays how you would do it with the tie rod in front.
You'll still need the sump/pump to send oil pressure to the top end of the engine for your valvetrain, camshaft, etc... I'd be fine with 5" clearance. Most low Hot Rods don't have much more than that and do fine. The engine doesn't look like it sits lower than most other Hot Rod setups. Fab a skid plate under the pan if you're worried. X2 on moving the tie rod to the rear of the axle (for asthetics alone-this isn't a Fad T). Manage the brake flex lines. Lose half of the spring leaves. That's a lot of spring.
I did the same thing when I built my T bucket in the mid 70's. I set the engine so low that with the wheelbase and engine setback from the front axle the pan would come right down on a speedbump at anything over a crawl. I think we repaired the oil pan on that one twice and maybe more times. I'd vote for raising the engine and trans a couple of inches even if it met less room on the floorboard.
Raise the engine. The joys of running a setup that is constantly coming into contact with the ground are not ones you want to enjoy.
You'd need to bend the steering arms nearly to the brake rotors. With spring behind set up, suicide perch and a spring hanging below the bones there's not much room behind there for a tie rod. You'd need really deep drop steering arms and then the tie rod will be the lowest part to hit anything. What's gonna happen when you bounce the tie rod off the ground? Who knows which way you'll go but you won't be happy.
so i will be raising the motor and trans, but what is actually the problem with the tie rods? it sounds like conflicting opinions,
notice the inside wheel turns tighter to make the turn....with your set up the out side wheel will turn tighter....
In a slow moving vehicle or a drag car ...doesn't really matter...on the street it may affect the handling to the point it is scary to drive....
i think i tried it that way and for some reason it wouldnt work, i will check again tomorrow and see why
That's kind of backwards. The further from straight ahead or the more the wheel is turned the more problems you'll have. Parking lot maneuvers are comical at best. Things are squealing pushing skipping not turning and fighting to stay straight. A right turn off a light is worse than a left. A nice 20 -25 mph sweeping turn will chew the tires up and spit them out like a wet fart. Probably not notice on the highway, but that nice 25 mph curve entrance/exit ramp will give you plenty of trouble. 100 plus mph in a straight line with good caster won't bother you at all.
I can see from here, the spring is occupying the space where your tie rod wants to be on the back side. You can make it work out front but you'll need to get with Ackerman's plan at least much closer.
4 1/2" is what I have and I've never hit anything. I also watch where I'm going. Sometimes. It's called "driving". My tie rod is also out front and no problems yet. I drive my car just about daily. Is it "ideal"? Nope, but it's not a new car either. If the roads where you live are full of speed bumps, that you race over, go ahead and raise it.
My T has about 10,000 miles on it. The pan has 4 1/2 inches clearance. Knock on wood I have never had a problem. I do go slow over speed bumps but I have never bottomed out. It does pass the scrub-line test. The oil pan is one from Summit that has a skip plate on it. Protects the drain plug from spinning out and adds some protection. The tie rod is in the front and I don't have steering issues. The Ackerman seems to be fine. The steering arms are Total Performance flipped side to side. These pictures have been on here before with generally positive comments. Close-up: From the top showing proper Ackerman, inside wheel has tighter turn:
The Jalopy Journal
