I just put a Saginaw 4sp in my 57 Chev replacing the original 3sd OD. I changed the drive shaft splines to fit the transmission. I now cannot put the drive shaft in. It is too long. It is into the trans as far as it will go. Both trans are the same length--about 22 inch. The only thing different other than the trans is that I put in 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks. Does any one know why this drive shaft won't go in? gto57
My first guess also, as there are different length slip yokes. If the current one is "bottomed out", I'd try taking about 1/2-3/4 inch off the splined end, and smooth/finish the cut end off; a hacksaw and angle grinder, along with some small files for the splines should do it. I have, in the past, had to shorten a slip yoke, and it had no apparent effect, but, one was the front shaft of a two piece driveshaft (no slip effect involved), and the other in my old FED, Powerglide to Olds rear setup (again, no slip effect involved). I know they make extra long slip yokes that are marketed as "cut to length", and sold for off road type uses. I think the lowering blocks do have a "little" to do with the problem, but it may be so minor that it's not the full reason for your issue. If you are too cautious about cutting the slip yoke, then redrill the pin locator holes on the spring perches of your rear end housing in order to move things back a little. Butch/56sedandelivery.
Man, that was a long time ago, but, we use to cut about an inch off the yoke so it would slide in enough. Not sure if thats your problem.
The front yokes come in four standard lengths from GM and others are available in aftermarket. As a rule of thumb you want about 1/2" clearance between the trans seal and the u-joint and no less than 2" of the yoke inside of the trans with the car at loaded ride height.
I'd set the car at ride height, put the yoke in all the way into the trans, pull it out about 3/4 to one inch, and measure the center to center distance for the U joints. Then get it shortened. I just had to do this on my 57 suburban after swapping rearends. cost about $85
It is the same length. If I could get the rear universal jt to mesh and bolted in, it may be alright. THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE INFO AND THINGS TO TRY. THIS IS A GREAT BUNCH HERE AT HAMB!! gto57
THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE INFO AND THINGS TO TRY. THIS IS A GREAT BUNCH HERE AT HAMB!! gto57 <!-- / message -->
I would drill a hole in the spring saddle on the rear like Butch 56 said. You can go 1" and the yoke will go in and out. If you just get it in you will have problems when you are moving. An added benifit is the wheel will be centered in the opening better. Pat
boy , everyone these days seems to want to do things the hard way. listen to squirrel. don't try to reinvent things or mickey mouse it. check what length you need and shorten if necc. may have other issues but moving the rearend is not the answer. keep it simple.
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