Hi folks, a little help please. I have a '31 Chevy Sedan (Coach) running a pressure fed '53 235 with an old Rochester carb which, a**** other issues, appears to be made of cardboard (soggy as you like). So I've decided to go for a pair of two barrel progressive Carter/Weber 32DFTs (from Langdon's) served on a bed of duel intake Offenhauser. I have a couple of questions before going in; 1. Need I only attach the vacuum timing advance from just one of the carbs to my stock dizzy, or will I somehow have to attach both (I'd rather not do the latter!)? 2. Should it be relatively straightforward to convert the carbs' electric choke to manual? Thanks. T.
Hey there! There are several variations to answer this question. Your best best is to email Tom at info@langdonsstovebolt.com (note: new email address). He will advise on any potential issues or modifications that will need to be made on this setup.
I have a question, that i hope you are ok with me asking here. I could look it up elsewhere, but im new to early Chevy stuff. What years were Stovebolts and what year are Blueflame engines. I once owned (for a short time) a 48 Chev truck. It had, i thought, a Blueflame in it. I have not long brought a 34 Standard, with OG engine.
Heres a little info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_straight-6_engine Ultimately the term 'Stovebolt' is literally a 1/4-20 slotted bolt that was simplistic and used to build early engines. Typically the term reflects a simplistic design, and was not a proper noun used to describe engines. "Stovebolt Six" moniker was originally meant to mock the engine. But it gained respect for its durability and easy-to-service features in both cars and trucks. Advertised as, "A Six for the Price of a Four" in 1929 models, the "Stovebolt Six" was better, more powerful, and in the same price range as the previous year's four-cylinder Read more: http://www.superchevy.com/features/sucp_0010_chevrolet_history_part_x/viewall.html#ixzz2pjLwZxpI The 'Blue Flame" was a term created by GM regarding the concept of perfect combustion. In 1950, Chevy introduced a more powerful "Blue Flame" Six (with 235 cubic inches), and 300,000 Chevrolet cars equipped with "Powerglide" models were sold the first year...a record production year in which a whopping 2,108,273 Chevrolets were built! Now specifically regarding your engine, if you still had access to your old truck, you can research your engine using the casting numbers on the side of the block. But, short of knowing the size and year of the engine (as we can't ***ume that it was the original engine at this point) I guess it's an unknown. Hope some of the links I shard helped! Google is a wonderful resource Also, check out www.langdonsstovebolt.com/tech for more articles about the 6 cylinders. Tom tries to put as much of his knowledge as he can up there!
There are some great books by Bill Smith and Roger Huntington. Both were written around 1954, but still available as reprints. Both have similar ***les, like "How to Hop Up a Chevy 6"
Just received my copy of California Bill's 'Chevrolet GMC & Buick Speed Manual' from amazon.com They still seem to have some copies available in both original (expensive) and reprint (cheap). Haven't read everything but it is complete on rebuilding the early six. This and Tom Langden should get any six built. Built a stroked 250 using Langden parts and advice three years ago. Currently have just about everything together to build a 261 powered 32 Bantam coupe altered using 53 Corvette induction. wuga
Thanks for the reading list gentlemen. I've discovered, the vacuum from one carb SHOULD theoretically be enough. However, in practice this may not always be the case so I might as well hook 'em both up and be done with it. I apparently won't need a choke but rigging up a manual one is possible if need be. The parts are on order chaps. I'm going in!! A quick addition to the origins of the Stove Bolt name. Chevy began using their OHV inline 6 in 1929 and as well as using the slotted 'stove bolts' for the engines' pushrod covers, the cars themselves, particularly the interior were COVERED in the things (my '31 certainly is!). Indeed, virtually every visible exterior/interior bolt was a stove bolt thus, so I've read so it must be true, the engine's Stove Bolt name is at least as much to do with the car it was originally designed for as it is the engine itself.
hey T, i had a 56 gmc truck with a 270 liner and i built a log intake from exhast pipe and put two holley 94s on it. also i took a hei dist from a 80s 250 liner and inverted the drive gear. that combination worked very well. if you want to see pics go to salvagerz. com and then big mike. hope this helps. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hi. I am in the process of doing similar to my 46 chevy Stylemaster Coupe. I am taking a 1956 235 and installing a 264 grind cam, a Clifford dual water heated intake with 2 of the 32-36 two barrell Webber carbs, shorty tube headers & duals & a few other ***orted goodies & a 355 ring & pinion. If the water heated intake does not work out for the chokes it will be no problem to weld a half coupling to the exaust manifold & drill thru header & run an exhaust heat line to the manifold for more heat if needed. Patricks has a great page on recognizing just which engine you have in relation to whether it has the full oil pressure system or not. Without going back & referencing that info I might be putting my foot in my mouth on some or all of the following comments & that usually tastes like I stepped something real bad. - If you are not positive about the full oil pressure system (I think up to 55 only the 235's with powerglides had this) you can look at a few things. From memory if it has the plate on the block below exhaust manifold for the oil filter it is an oil dipper. Also from memory the valve covers for the oil dippers had the 2 studs on top and the pressured systems had the 2 bolts on each side??? I probably should go look before posting this but I am sure I will be corected if wrong. My mechanic I am buying the rebuilt 235 has been ill & work on the 235 is at a standstill for now & hopefully I will get the stripped timing gear on the old 216 done this week so I can get it to the body shop for full installation of all new window rubber & door weatherstrippng. Then at least i can get back to driving it. We have a bunch of shows, parades & cruises,etc coming up down in here in Texas & I can do that with either engine for now. On the va***e advance I plan to use a Tee and feed from both carbs and I have a new fuel pump with vac***e that I will run the line to the vac***e ***ist shift to for more va***e. I already have electric wipers but if using va***e wipers you will get better vac***e without that dang wiper pause if you feed it to the fuel pump. At leat with the vac***e if you don't like what you get you can easily change to something else. Good luck with your set up. Jimmie
Thanks for all that Jimmie, particularly the vacuum advice. Sounds like you have a good set up although I am a bit puzzled over a couple of things... Given the heated intake system is to aid fuel vaporisation, how will it affect the chokes? How are you managing to squeeze two 32-36 DGV Webers on there? I've always been lead to believe they are better suited to a single carb application on these motors? I'm by no means an expert, just always keen to get alternative perspectives and learn new stuff. Good luck with the Coupe Sir and thanks again for your input.
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