This is my Gerber, Spurgin / Giovanine, Mr Model T and Jimmy B inspired T. Basically its going to be a chev 4 powered 26 T roadster Gowjob. I have been messing about with chev 4s for 35 years so the T Chev combo suits me to a T sir. The chassis build is one day old and essentially a mock up to see if everything will fit. So far all looks good but the rear end is going to be a little tricky with transverse spring, brake rods and radius rods all needing space. Also, being right hand drive, the right side of the motor is a little cluttered with exhaust, ignition, pedals and steering all vying for space.
Yes the very same chassis - better late than never. It has been built numerous times during REM but I finally have time to get this thing ready for a Waihi Beach dustup (but possibly not this year).
Ingredients: Am trying to keep everything pre 1930 but there may be a few pre war parts on the motor / engine. From back to front 26 chev diff & torque tube, 25 chev gearbox, 27 chev block, 23 Olds head, 1926 whippet radiator. Front wheels are 27 T wires which will eventually be on 27 chev spindles, 27 chev steering box, 28 Pontiac steering wheel, & probably 28 Model A wires on the rear a la Mr Model T. I am toying with the twin SU's but they are not quite period but carbs are always a compromise - I have a nice wee SR winfield but haven't found a manifold to suit so still undecided. Tappet covers are 25 chev and distributor will be 28 chev.
The body is ready and waiting and currently sitting on a 26 chev chassis that was my original idea but the T chassis just makes more sense being lighter and more accommodating of the roadster body. The magpie items include 1916 Cadillac headlights, gauges are all 1920s Austin (Smiths) Austin 7 seats etc. Well that's the plan - hope I can make progress to keep some of you interested.
What a great looking project! I have a set of lever arm shocks and some other bits leftover from a 1931 Chevy. I'd be glad to contribute them to this project if you want to cover the cost of shipping. Ed
Thanks for the very kind offer Burger. At this stage I am looking at using 1920s Austin friction shocks - They should look ok cleaned up and perhaps some repro Hartford transfers. Kume
Thanks JW I have been collecting parts for this project for about 5 years but its only been in the last 6 months I felt I had everything I needed to make a start. Kume
Kume, what a great project, love the direction you are taking, the simplicity of it is great and parts sourced from multiple sources is the true spirit of pre-war Gow Jobs. I am glad my postings have in part given you inspiration for your build. Another Chevy banger rod is always good.
Wow, this is going to be a great build. Do you know Russ Tee on here? Hes into the early engine combo thing to, and comes from our quake capital. May be worth having a chat with him.
Thanks Mac I think the twin valve covers only came out on the 1925 chev but they fit all the chev 4 heads and the olds head obviously. They are a lot nicer than the standard loaf tin. Kume
Yeah, I missed a pair some months back on Ebay- AND a set o Hasslers that went uber-cheap!!! Anyway, you have a fantastic start- REALLY looking forward to seeing your progress
Well, I like the different drivetrain choice. It's always nice to see a new twist on things instead of the same old same old. Looking forward to more. Cliff Ramsdell
Great project, that '27 T Roadster body looks like a real nice one. You just motivated me to do something on my Bobtail project. Bob
I was just thinking that, looks like a super nice body to start with. I like the plans, looking forward to seeing more.
The body was in pretty good shape but still needed quite a bit of work in the usual places. And of course no boot lid so ordered one from Howells and it arrived within four weeks. Unfortunately it wasn't the best fit - out of square by a bout 5mm but it is in keeping with the rest of the build.
Some progress made on the mock up over the long weekend. Motor in final position and body position moved 2.5 inches back to provide room for the three port head and to line up the rear wheel arch with the slightly longer chev drive train. This should also allow me to use a Model A hood.
I thought the diff would be the hardest part to mount to the T chassis but is proving reasonably straight forward. The spring has to go over the diff to avoid the chev mechanical brake rods so some kind of laurel style brackets will be required. The chev and T spacing between the backing plates are the same so no problems there. Model A radius rods tie in perfectly with diff backing plate flange rivets and opening up the radius rod web should avoid the chev brake rods. The Model A radius rods also line up nicely with the universal joint.
Fan blade is pretty tight but I think I can modify the pulley. however the crazy top tank on the Whippet radiator will need some mods to get a top hose connected. The Whippet radiator sits at exactly the right height for the T cowl when seated in the T front cross member - perhaps another reason why they were so widely used. The Model A bonnet should work with a bit of trimming.
Thanks Kiwijeff There have been a few ford chev combo builds on the HAMB over the years but I think most modify chev chassis's. Some have put Model A motors into T chassis etc but I could be the first to try and fit a chev 4 into a T chassis. I finally found Russtee from shaky town not to be confused with Russ Tee from the US. Looks like he has a fine stable. Cheers Kume
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