im gluing a wood inner structure into my gl*** 34 ford.. any suggestions as to the best adheasive? ive been told 3 products: 3m 5200 loc***e pl premium and AMAZING GOOP all construction adheasives. not sure how good they are.. or should i just use bondo as a glue and stick them in. there will be screws holding them also but i want them to be in there primarily with the adheasive. any suggestions?
The problem with resin is it bridge a gap. These wood parts don't fit exactly perfect so I wanna use like a caulk style glue to bridge the gaps Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have also been told to use the 3m 8115 panel adhesive, I used it in my build thread to install the steel cowl cent .. I was told ,by a auto body dealer, 8115 was the same as corvette panel adhesive with a 4 hour clamp time instead of 6 Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Boat builders use a product called "Core Bond" its made to bond wood to fibergl***.. check your fibergl*** wholesaler..thick like bondo and needs a catylist
Duragl*** is better than Bondo, It has small fibergl*** strands in it. Only use something recommended for fibergl***, I would not use Goop. Resin it not the best glue. If you can get in and bridge the wood and fibergl*** with fibergl*** mat and resin it will reinforce the bond. Like a cove. The strength of fibergl*** comes from the the cloth, not the resin. If you build up multiple layers of mat, tear the mat instead of cutting it. The torn edges overlap and tie into each other. A clean cut will make a hard edge. Ago
I would use the 8115. I've used it on a lot of parts and for thi exact purpose. When I was working in the body shops the 3m reps always told us if in doubt use 8115 as it will bond and stick to every everything that's prepped right
I think I'm going to go this route. It sure worked on my cowl vent. I hate dura gl*** .. It was recommended before for the lamination of inner and outter skins and it popped off like it was a suction cup. And it was prepped correctly Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Be careful bonding fibergl*** to wood,I worked with a boat builder for a while and he always emphasized lay down some extra gl*** mat where the wood will be adhered.. His though process was that wood bonded directly to a flat piece of fibergl*** would draw the gl*** and create a noticeable wave. HRP
True. You might want to take a look at the WEST SYSTEM epoxies. It's a two part epoxy that can be mixed with their micro fibers to create a slurry that will give you a good bond. Control the thickness of the mix with the amount of micro fibers you use. West Marine can fix you up with everything you'll need.
Thats very true! one good thing is how i fit the wood inside, its nearly impossble to glue on a surface that can be seen from the out side. and basicly i have everything screwed and bolted in, but i was the panel adheasive to fill the voids and seal it up. thank you HRP I looked a WEST, they make a hell of a product. that is my second choice over the 3m 8115 adheasive
I used a product called Sikaflex 221 when I built a gl*** '34 in the nineties. I think it is still available from marine & aircraft suppliers or on line. Google it. I was told that you needed some flexibility between wood and steel reinforcement & the gl***. This stuff is mighty strong as I discovered when I wanted to part a piece once. I had to use a hammer & chisel & it still ripped the gl*** in places! It's also great for bonding brackets to gl*** - just scuff the gl*** first to take off the shiny surface.
I looked that up and along with many other companies I'm being told it's more of a sealant then a strong *** clue.. Maybe they are just covering there behind if it doesn't work right. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Its no problem, you have to put micro baloons in it, so it gets more like bondo and you can fill gaps with it. This is the way we repair surfboards if the have large dings you have to fill up.
I would use Pro-set toughened epoxy, ADV-176 and ADV-276, two parts, it will bond wood to fibergl***, it does not cure brittle some flex remains,gap filling gell dispensed from a gun,Jamestown distributers is a good source as well as West marine, we routinely bond high stress boat parts with this product only with out problems, have for over two decades, if you use another product be careful what you wipe the surfaces with some of the compounds mentioned will never cure in the presence of certain solvents.
Sikaflex 221 worked for me but make sure the surfaces are degreased (panel wipe) & scuffed. Also lay a wavy excessively thick bead as it needs to have plenty of thickness and leave the excess adhesive that squashes out in place without wiping it. A very thin sandwich is not as good so it's better to have quite a big gap between the timber/metal and gl*** fibre parts being joined. I used everywhere and it held up for the nine years I owned the car.
PL Priemium Construction Adhesive with Polyurthane. I used it on all my structure bonding on my roadster. That was 5 years ago, (the last 3 on the road) and nothing has moved.
Pl premium is a urethane based construction adhesive, will stick steel to concrete so don't know why it wouldn't do what you want it to!
I would use epoxy resin with a filler such as wood flour,micro-fibers, micro-balloons, etc. prep by rough sanding the gl*** and precoat the wood with straight resin/hardener, then apply the thickened epoxy mixture Follow mixing ratios closely,measure,don't guess Clean up with vinegar
Update: I went ahead and used 3m 8115 panel adhesive .. And man on man is it strong. Summit has it for 38$ I did the entire wood kit in my car with one tube. We clamped it and within 4 hours it was hard as a rock and couldn't move it one bit.you could flex the fibergl*** but not the adhesive. Works for me! It's nice having a gl*** car with an entire wood structure inside Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
i wanted to wrap up my conclusions after experimenting several different products and actually having this project done. what i have found: corvette panel bond: awesome stuff! very hard to come by around here and its pricey as hell, but its perfect for this aplication 3m 8115 &8116 panel adheasive: (same product, different time delay) same as corvette panel bond. it will basicly stick to any clean preped surface.. it dries hard, but soaks into the poors of the wood and the gl***. it also will bridge, or fill a gap if needed. i also used it to glue steel into my gl*** car. its a perfec all around strong *** adheasive that you never have to worry about coming apart! i highly reccomend using this stuff for anything and everthing PL Premium: this is a fairly decent glue. it takes a while to set up and cure. Once all dried at a warm temp, it is fairly hard, it wont let the parts your adhearing move, but it will still flex if needed. it takes alot of clamping to make it really hold well. but it does work and it works good. its not a good idea for things that you cannot get clamps on. it will not bridge, or fill a gap. the outter laer of glue will dry before the inner. its not designed for that type of use. Liquid nails: Dont waste your time. im not even going to comment as to why fibergl*** resign: it works. its a paint in the ***. even with a filler or balloons, its to runny and it not designed to get deep down into the poors of a material and bight in. i wouldnt recommend trying it. its easier to just buy the correct product and being confident that it will hold for ever. duragl***: is terrrible.its designed as a filler to stick to the surface of a rough material. you can sandwhich duragl*** between steel and pull it apart fairly easy when its cured, same goes for two pieces of fibergl***.. the resin jelly is better that the actual duragl***.. i was told that this is what has been used to glue outter panels to inners, there is no way in hell it holds! no way! tried it. relased the clamps and it fell apart bondo: bondo works suprisingly well. with the proper prepped surface, its very hard to seperate the materials.. its bonding particles are small enought to really get down in and hold tight to about anything. the key with this is to mix it soft. make it take a while to cure. this keeps the bondo from getting brittle and just popping apart. bondo doesnt like to stick fibergl*** to steel. but if you rough up both, spread a thin coat on both materials, let them cure competly, then go back re scuff it up and add more bondo and stick them together, its impossible to get it back apart. it works very well. its just a longer process than other adheasives need. POR-15 seam sealer: or any seam sealer, fuzor or POR, not a good hold at all. over time it will dry like a rock, but its made to keep the weather out of a seam weld or something of that nature. its bonding strength is not very strong. it also is spoungy if it doenst dry all the way through. and it will bridge a gap, but it will stay somewhat soft. well fellas, my car is all done, with 3m 8115. and i couldnt be happer. it bonded steel, wood, and plastic to fibergl***. it worked great! i just wanted to share what all i have learned so if anyone else is in question, this may help there process.
Thanks for all of your info. I'm sure it'll be helpful to others. I've worked around boats a fair amount (my other moneypit) and have found anything with polyester resin (commonly called "fibergl***") including Bondo does not bond well to much of anything - period. However, epoxy resin based products give good results. Epoxy is essentially an adhesive - polyester is not.
Really do appreciate the "wrap up" on all your testing ! Your build & all the info you provided will be a legend on the Hamb . Many Thanks.........
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