I'm looking to convert the front brakes on my 53 chevy to disc, while retaining the Kingpins. Dropping the spindles would also be in my interest if there is a kit available that does both. Who's already done this swap? Who knows someone who has? Which Kits work well? Which ones ****? Some require machine work on the spindles, some don't. How much machine work is required? Whats the best bang for your buck and who sells them. Any feed-back would be greatly appreciated.
[ QUOTE ] I'm looking to convert the front brakes on my 53 chevy to disc, while retaining the Kingpins. Dropping the spindles would also be in my interest if there is a kit available that does both. Who's already done this swap? Who knows someone who has? Which Kits work well? Which ones ****? Some require machine work on the spindles, some don't. How much machine work is required? Whats the best bang for your buck and who sells them. Any feed-back would be greatly appreciated. [/ QUOTE ] Well Shheeit man, Hows it going Torr. Good to see ya on the HAMB. Lemme know when the Kings are back down here in Texas. I have a couple of shows waiting for ya. Here and Austin.. Slick done anything to the caddy? well bro.. take it easy.. still got the Boston ****box? Neal0o btlltw
I used a pair of the Speedway repop '49-'54 spindles that have the machining changes from stock. Since I was using them on a very light T roadster I opted to use Pinto/Mustang II rotors and Metric GM calipers. I didn't want the calipers out in front of the spindle like the bracket kit they sell does, so I built my own brackets to put them behind the spindle and down from center a bit. Made for some challenges in fitting everything in but they work well based on initial shake down runs. On your full body, heavier car you should probably consider the larger 10.5" or 11" rotors (whichever they are), like Speedway's other kit uses, for the better braking torque. Hope this helps in your decision.
Neal, Good to see you on here, Slick has the caddy running amazingly well for as long as it sat. The mill is running pissah, and he bolted up a complete new exhaust system. All he needs now is to fix one flat, and unbind a throttle linkage problem, then he's back on the road. As for the "****box" it is still sitting idle while we all still debate as to street legalize the thing or just make it a full on drag car. How's your Ford doing? Thanks everyone for the input, I'd still like to hear some more opinions before I decide though, Anyone else?
Can you tell us more about this warning? I just got the ECI setup used! I got a problem with the lower caliper pin not clearing the tie rod end. I can get the pin in if I remove the tie rod . But who the hell wants to do that! I have a 53 upright and spindle with the deal , I have installed this on a 49 chevy using its stock steering arm, I dont know there might be a problem there! This post has been dormit for for some time, looked like a good place to bring this info up!
I also used the ECI. Went on well except it was kind of a ***** to get the bearing adapters on, but that beats the hell out of having them machined. No problems with the tie rod end, but I'm using stock spindles right now.
Thanks for the warning info. It looks like I could place the caliper at the front and avoid this clearance problem, how is yours mounted? We dont have any instructions!
I bought the complete ECI kit (included rotors, calipers, etc.) and it was very easy to install on the stock spindles and front end. My only problem was the drivers side plate didn't mount quite right which caused a bind with the pads on the rotor. I drove it anyway thinking the caliper would level itself and the pads would wear down. I dis***embled last weekend to find the brake pads were down to the rivets and there was some serious groove action in the rotor. I tore it down and ground down the lower ear that was causing the bind. The wheel spins freely now (it didn't spin so easy before). But I'm not sure if I totally cured my problem. Other than that, I was very happy with the kit.
Dude, take the tie rod off. It's easy. or, you can try to unbolt the steering arm. Just two bolts. You should go with the machined spindle option, or the pre-machined. The reason is that the others increase your track width (they don't tell you about that). So be sure to ask. I put my calipers on the back and used Chevelle calipers and rotors.
Im really trying to stay away from removing a tierod every time I need to get in there. Im going to move them to the front of the rotor, bleeders up! We just got a package deal from a guy! 53 uprights, rotors,calipers,pads,hoses,kingpins,STOCK CHEVY spindle with a adapter on it,eci caliper plate, MII bearings. nothing is really installed yet, missing some kingpin parts! We have no master cyclinder installed are any brake lines! What you mean "increase your track width" how so? How do I check for this?
Yep. When I originally installed the caliper and realized there was a problem, I called ECI and the tech said that is was just an issue with spacing. Running a feeler guage and examining the wear, it seemed like the bottom of the bracket (that little ear that has the single bolt) was kicked out just a tad too far. I tried shimming the top bolts with a washer to straighten it, but the tolerances were too tight and it pushed everything over too far. So I ground it down a bit on the ear and it seems to have helped because slipping the caliper on with new pads was much easier this time around. I couldn't bring myself to spending more money on a new rotor since this one is practically new (except the deep grooves). So I don't have a definite way of knowing that my problem is solved except my drivers wheel isn't getting nearly as dusty as it used to and the wheel spins with little effort. The p***enger side has been perfectly fine. The track width means the wheels are pushed slightly out further than stock with the bearing adapters. I think it may be a 1/4" difference absolute max. Never understood why people care about that so much. It's worth it to run modern bearings, in my opinion. I have lowered my car a good bit to tuck the wheels and I'm not seeing any effects (no rubbing) of the wheels being pushed out.
I would think you could check the pad again for even wear! I measured from the uprite to the wheel mounting stud and get 6" on the new setup, on the old did the same thing, got 5 1/4" so the distance has increased 3/4" using the rotor! Do you have your calipers to the front? We did a test swap last night, moved the caliper to the front, No clearance problems there. Will have to figure somthing out on hoses though!
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