Question about ignition

I am in the process of rewiring my plymouth with the e-z wire kit in an attempt to convert to 12v. (The wires were shot anyway.) I mounted an alternator and got the wiring to the point that I could start the engine. It fired right up with no problems at all. As I continued the wiring process, I was testing some of the circuits with the key in the ACC position (the engine wasn't running) when I heard a "pop, sizzle" come from the engine compartment, coupled with a horrific smell. The coil had blown up. This brings me to my first question: Does it make sence that this happened? I am obviously new to working on cars, but I didn't see that coming.
I found a 12v coil at Pep Boys that resembled the 6v coil that I blew up. The problem is that the engine won't fire now. All the fuses are fine. My second question is: What else have I screwed up that is keeping me from getting spark? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Time for a fresh set of points and a condensor too!! I think I'd also toss a ballast resistor in there if you don't already have one. Sounds to me that you curently have it wired with +12v "sitting" on the coil in the ACCESSORY position. (the coil should "see" FULL power when cranking (by p*** the ballast resistor) and then drop off to 9 volts or so AFTER it's started (in the RUN position) since you're now running you power THROUGH the ballast resistor. Sounds to me that you had it sitting there cooking the coil while in the "acc" position - points generally DON'T like that. I ***ume your coil blew up since it was 6 volt AND sitting there with power while not running. That's my guess anyways.

 

It sounds to me like you have the ignition wire connected wrong. The whole purpose of the ACC key position is to disconnect the ignition circuit when using accessories while the engine is turned off. The coil should not be hot with the key in the acc position. The ignition wire should be connected to the run terminal of the switch.

 

Thanks fellas. I will give that a try. And Tommy, to correct my first post, you were right. The switch was actually in the run position.

 

HemiRambler; Excelant advice. If Toe-Knee Is working with stock early Plym. componets I doubt there is a 4 pole cyl in the system. This is necessary to get the full 12v during cranking then back to 6-9v for run, I would encourage him to get a 4 pole Ford type cyl. and add it to his system. The lack of a Ballast resister was most likely the cause of the problem.
The Wizzard