Projects Official Rough Bodywork And Paint Job Thread, Post Your Pics

I really don't like to do the filler work, I can, and know how, just can't stand doing it very long. All of my cars and trucks have been home painted with a Harbor Freight spray gun and cheap enamel paint. The cheap stuff usually lasts about 3 years, then i do a little more body work and another paint job. Usually after the 2nd or 3rd time they start looking pretty good.

 

I can relate to the body work too, can do it, but for months/years/decades on end, with a car in pieces nope, maybe someday. What type of enamel do you use, how do you tin and mix it, how do you shoot yours on? Vehicles look good....

 

I just found 2 gallons of acrylic lacquer automotive paint I had, 1 gallon royal blue, 1 gallon plum purple. Besides the odd spraybomb, have never used acrylic lacquer topcoats, primers, but never painted with this stuff personally.
Yay or nay, no labels on the can, but was given paint by a Buddy who knew it was lacquer. I did a test shoot on some panels a few years ago, I know this stuff dries wicked fast, and smells like lacquer thinner, maybe it is some type of old Dupli-color stuff, or could be quality stuff too.

 

i say use it , if it sux , change it....

 

I got tired of the red primer and shot my '55 Dodge in one afternoon. Used Rustoleum Satin, shot it on with a cheap Walmart utility spray gun in my yard...under a tree. I use my truck to haul lumber, gravel, sand, etc. as well as to go to the local 'cruise-in's'. The paint doesn't have to be perfect...just not yet.
Steve-

 

not sure what it is though, no label on can, smells like lacquer, dries fast, what else could it be?

 

Nothin wrong with that, like the truck, but am partial to 55/56 Dodges..

 

Well, mix a little with lacquer thinner, if it shoots , blast it... , if it don't , make other arrangements...lol , if at first you don't succeed , try again , if it don't work , offer money....lol

 

Found some other paint i have too, Armor Coat Rust gloss enamel, shinier n $hit. It is made by Tremclad, owned by Rustoleum corp for Canadian Tire stores. So basically alkyd enamel, add hardener and reduce for spraygun. i did a dash a few years ago, just as shiny now, and cannot dig nails into it. This stuff is real low budget 25 buck$ per gallon

 

I did the body work and shot this one in single stage urethane in my garage. Body was really decent so the only work was replacing the floors from the toe board to the tailpan and fixing some minor rust in the headlight area and rocker panel. I did it with the frame off though so I could paint the frame decent. Don't remember how much it cost me but I did it about 8 or 9 years ago and it was in the hundreds including all the materials I used.


Wow, I just found out that if you upload photos and then preview the post....it erases your photos and you have to do it over. Learn sumptin new every day.

 

Definately a long way from show quality... I sprayed this a year or so ago. First time I'd ever held a paint gun, and I got a little light on coverage in a couple of places. No flow checks though.
Like the o.p., I live on a dirt road, and this old truck spends most of its time on dirt, looking for fishing holes. That, and I drive the fire out of this and don't want the worries of a mint paint job being damaged while it's at Walmart or the hardware store. I can't afford professional paint and body anyway..
I think I have less than $100 in this- $50 for a gallon of swap meet black semi gloss, and the rest in tape and supplies. Kinda matches the old truck...looks good from 15 feet, and is worry free. It gets scratches or fades, I'll do it again.

 

That's the way to "do ere" 5-oh.
Just doing the final sand before shooting on the paint. I used Home Hardware Rust Coat grey primer, supposedly the resin is alkyd/urethane blend, not sure though.
The primer in most of the truck is been on for a while but some only a few day.
I am hitting it with 320 and 400, this stuff sands like a dream, nice dry powder. It is sanding just as well as all of the 2 k urethane primers I have used.
I did shoot this stuff on with a 1.4 tip, primer thinned 25%, if it was shot with a 1.8 tip, could go on pure, and build a higher film build.
not for everyone, but is working for me.
I even tried some lacquer paint over this primer in a small spot, did not phase the primer

 

this is my 3rd car ive done paint/body...have some prefessional friends that have guided me along the way..still very much a rookie!

Fresh paint from this week in my garage...single stage Valspar (pretty cheap stuff). Will wetsand and buff this week

 

Painted cab today, Rust Coat enamel, 8- 4 medium speed reducer-1 part acrylic enamel hardener.
It is super warm here today by our standards, my shop was 76 degrees, this paint flashed super quick, not the norm. I had trouble with dry spray on 2nd coat, had to add more reducer, and make it wetter as i sprayed. More details to follow.

 

Looks good. Good color choice

 

I painted my '40 in my driveway

 

I just finished painting my '41, also in the driveway

 

looks good there, got some friggin clarity loss on the 2nd coat, but hopefully it will flatten out more as it dries. The elcheapo hvlp gun, didn't help much either, okay for primer, but last time I try this trick with it. Time to buy a better topcoat gun.
I laid down a fair amount of paint, so could compound this baby and make shine like glass, but what for a rough truck for working around the farm, and the body is old and wavy. She is cleaned up looking though....

 

Okay at 72 hours after shooting on synthetic enamel with gloss hardener, paint is hardening up quite we;;
I also had some overspray on engine and oil bath filter(i forgot to cover). the air filter, was covered in blue overspray, got a rag soaked with lacquer thinner and cleaned off. This did not phase thei black rustoleum paint I sprayed on there about a year ago. I then used polishing compound to shine it up///

 

looks real good!

 

Our local "farm" store is a Farm & Fleet. I used their "Anti-Rust" oil based enamel (used to be about $20/gal, now around $30) thinned around 10% with Mineral Spirits, sprayed through my cheap Harbor Freight gun. Takes days to dry. Thin paint, runs, drips, sags, dirt, bugs and about anything else that can go wrong with a paint job is included for free. One look proves I'm not a painter, but they look great in pictures and from 10 feet away. I might have $100 in the total body and paint job, counting filler, sand paper, paint & thinner. I own a DA, an air file, an air compressor, and a paint gun, and pretend I know how to use them. I really don't care what other people think about my paint jobs, i paint my stuff for me, and if i become unhappy with them, I give it another try. Gene

 

Flat six fix , I was wondering if you know where there is any 51 -52 dodge panels I need a rear taillight assembly ,if you or any one now where there is one that would really help out another Manitoba fargo guy .


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This is my first full paint job. I did it by myself in my garage. Built the rotisserie too.





My current project is a '60 Seneca. I'm having a new engine built for the car, a dual quad 318 poly stroker and wanted to do some freshening up before the motor gets dropped in. One thing led to another... I now have the front clip disassembled and everything from the firewall forward has been soda blasted. I pulled the dash at the same time for restoration, and to make it easier to rewire the car.

 

Here is my Plymouth with a quickie Mop N Glo....

 

Use to be bare metal, now it just has horrible black paint...