Zinc additive or not, yes or no

I know there's been a lot of discussion on this and I did search it. I wonder if I could just get a yes or no answer to this? Do I need to start adding zinc additive to my engine oil in a '86 Ford 302 with a flat tappet Comp thumper cam that I been running for 3 years with no problems and using straight 30 HD engine oil? Yes or no please Thanks

 

Some will say Shell's Rotella T has enough zinc in it, some say Chevron's Delo has enough also...I personally wouldn't feel safe running off the shelf oil without an additive with the exception of like a Brad Penn, Lucas that advertises added zinc.
Not enough PPM (parts per million) will eventually eat up valvetrain components.

 

You're asking for an answer you're never going to get.

I say it doesn't hurt to run with the zinc, better safe than sorry. I really believe it matters most during break-in and especially if you're running heavy valve springs.

 

I don't use Zinc additives just Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil that has 1400 PPM of Zinc and 1300 PPM of Phosphorous. Using an additive along with an oil with ZDDP already in it can result in too much ZDDP which can cause just as much damage as not enough ZDDP. I'd like to think an engine oil manufacturer with a staff of chemists and engineer's can figure out the correct formulation better then someone just dumping in a bottle of additive.

 

...........................I agree, but I was going to weigh yesses withe nos totals and go from there, hasn't worked so far. I installed the cam and adhered to Comp's instructions and grease and used suggested break in 3 years ago and probably over 10 g's mileage. Runs like the day I installed it. Seems to me it might not be necessary. My concern is, have i done undue damage without additive? Thanks

 

Agree 100%. Valvoline VR-1 (my choice) or other brands with higher levels of Z/P are much better than adding additives, and cheaper!.

 

Yes with high performance engines with high valve spring ratings. No with stock flat heads. My rebuilder showed me some push rods from new Corvetts that were wiped out and I have trouble with my 327 with higher spring ratings than stock . Just my experience. I have an eclectic collection. Jim. T.

PS : I now use Brad Penn 20 / 50 in my 327.

 

What about just running a synthetic like Mobil One?

 

Another vote for Valvoline VR-1 here. I've been using it for quite some time with no problems.

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any motors with flat tappet cams need zinc it's best to use oil that all ready has it Brad penn VR-1 etc even motors that none roller rockers need it just took a motor apart all the rockers and balls were galled and making a tic-tic noise

 

Thanks gentlemen, I'll buy oil with zinc in it and stop being such a cheap shit. I should be "mixed" right and certainly can't harm the engine.

 

YES=PERIOD!! only way to do without is a late style roller type motor!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Brad Penn 10W30 here.

 

Here is your answer...

http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0702_pitstop_zinc_oil_additive/

 

Not all Mobil 1, Rotella or Delo have the high Zinc levels as newer Diesels have catalytic converters. Some do some don't.

 

Modern oils are complex formulas...Lube engineers caution against adding additives that may not be compatible . High zinc and some detergent packages do not blend well.

Use a dedicated high zinc oil like Brad Penn for example

 

Ya that's what I use in my car 20w-50 VR-1. Why? Because Brad Penn or the other specialty oil brands are not stocked in my area

 

Valvoline VR-1 Racing. I run 10W30 in my Falcon. The rod has roller everything, so it runs synthetic.

Again, VR-1, because none of the alternatives are stocked in my area.

 

I work on vintage (flat tappet) cars for a 9-5 living , and EVERY car gets Brad Penn oil - period . They NEED the zinc , so they GET it .

**We use Brad Penn , but you can use whatever zinc-rich oil you want - just use it .

 

How do you guys think it started getting stocked here?....I asked for it. Special ordered cases for about a year... Now they stock it because of me and some others ordering it frequently. Parts stores don't carry stuff they don't know their is a demand for.

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I have been asking for years. The market here is just too small for specialty oils.

 

Gotelli

 

after 3 years with no problems why change what you have been using?

 

Add my vote for VR-1, use it in my Y-Block.
FYI: it comes in regular and synthetic

 

I simply use SAE 30 HD, wandering if it's sufficient or slowly causing premature harm?

 

By now there's no question about the benefit of using engine oil with a high Zinc content in flat tappet engines. Why on earth would you use something else????? I'm with everyone else about having difficulty purchasing Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs locally. Valvoline VR 1 is readily available.

 

All oils have been modified over the last few years. The 30 weight you buy now is nothing like it was 10 years ago.

Good idea - will check it out

 

Add a bottle of blue STP with an oil change. It under $3.00 a bottle......cheap insurance. Says it contains ZDDP.

 

It's my understanding the red bottle of STP that's been discontinued is the one that had the ZDDP. A good article on ZDDP is here on the web "Judging the truth about today's oil "
www.highperformancepontiac.com. A lot of good info that's easy to understand

 

We have a few blue bottles sitting on the shelf at work , they also say they have ZDDP in them - but is it enough ?? Who knows ??