Thanks Bct I cant take credit for the panel work. It was done by a local legend Terry in Mount Maunganui who did an amazing job of fixing the few rusted areas while keeping the overall patina of what was a very tidy original body. The un-restored finish is largely inspired by Bugsy and Mr Model T's builds. I know its not everyone's cup of tea but with good sound panel work it gives me (or someone) the option to give it a decent paint job in the future. Kume
You will get better idle and low end response if you incorporate a balance tube to connect the two inlet ports, between the carbs and the head itself. Take a look at any stock engine that has dual SU's and you will see what I mean. If you don't want to fab up a manifold, you might be able to find one with the correct distance from port to port on the head (3 port is the same spacing as '28)--If you cant there two options. One is to find one with a longer spacing and cut a piece out of the balance tube, then have it welded back together. The other is to find one that is too short, cut the balance tube in the center and reconnect the pieces with a piece of fuel proof hose. I've seen both ways done--the welded job is much more workmanlike--but the hose will get the job done. I've subscribed to this thread. Between Mac and I, we're going to keep an eye on this --looks very good so far. Herb K
Thanks Herb Yes I have been on the look out for a suitable inlet manifold - I notice they typically have a large diameter balance tube. Shouldnt be too difficult to fabricate something. Failing that I will use a Winfield if I can source one of those Neal Jern manifolds he makes for the chevy head. I do like the look of the twin SU's though.
Thanks Bugsy Your roadster has been a significant influence on my build. You seem to be finding some really nice accessory parts lately. My latest purchase was this calorimeter - I like the exposed mechanism over the mercury thermometer - very steampunk. Kume
Good stuff here! It looked really nice on that Chevy chassis too! I wish you were closer as I would take that chassis of your hands for my T. Please keep the updates coming!
The T body is a relatively easy fit to a stock chev chassis but the latter is much heavier than a T chassis and the rear buggy springs on the chev chassis make it look all arse. The T roadster body is heavier than a 25 , 26 chev roadster body depending on what type of wood was used in the framing. Fitting the chev running gear to the T chassis is proving to be quite straight forward.
Hi Mac They are 1 & 1/4 inch - From what I understand this is about as big as you want to go but I am open to suggestions. I have a pair of 1 & 1/8 SU's but I think they might be a tad small. I think the inlet on the Olds head are 1 & 3/8 .
I just looked at the Hambs SU thread and I see you were going to run 1 & 1/4 SU's on your chev 4 - did you get around to it. Not much info around on SU's being run on early bangers. Dont know anything about car in pick below? Kume
Oh, if I only had the time, the room, and the $$ Right now, I need to get the '56 pickup on the road (my current daily had 280K miles), then try to find seats for my dad's '28 Dodge (LONG story), THEN will come the '28. I do have the SU's, and will try them on the running engine. Have also considered a Winfield, Zenith 8810's, motorcycle carbs, etc... ALL pie in the sky until the new daily is on the road.
I ran a set of 1 1/4 SU's on the C4 in my avatar car. Performance was fine (higher compression, cam, 3 port head, inserts, pressure oil and counterweighted) but after a while, I didn't feel that they looked vintage, so swapped them for a large updraft off of a forklift with a flathead Chrysler (Plymouth) 6. The SU's gave more at high revs, but since there is virtually no competition events for bangers around here, the updraft was perfect for everyday driving. I sold the car to a gearhead who gave me the old " Just the kind of car that I always wanted" story, who then took it to Hershey, and flipped it for profit. Probably the new owner has pulled the engine to put a small block in the car--the mistakes we make--but the space that we have is a finite thing, and always overflowing. Herb
Thanks for your input Herb. Based on your experience with 1 & 1/4 SUs I think I will give them a go. I agree they don't look period but they have been in common use since the 1920s so as long as I don't use a plastic laden pair from the BMC era I might get away with them. Sad about your Chev - that was a real nice looking roadster. I sold my running barn find 28 chev truck a few years back fully expecting some twit to restore but was pleased to see it in a VVC mag over the weekend looking unchanged and in use. Picks below are as it was when I sold it. The wooden Colonial cab was standard as NZ didn't get factory cabs on chevs until the 30s.
Kume, did your truck have the BIG Chevy 4 engine (looks like it)? Herb, REALLY sorry to hear about that car getting flipped!!!
Mac I have heard talk of the 'big chev 4' but motor in my old truck was identical to car motor but with cast iron pistons and 4 speed box. I think engine number defined the truck motor but i wasn't aware of any other differences. The NZ 1928 truck had 4 wheel brakes but retained the 1927 sheet metal.
Mac; To the best of my knowledge the big (224 vs 170cid)engine was only used 1919-1923-in the Royal Mail roadster, Baby Grand touring and the 1 ton truck. When Oldsmobile dropped the 4 cylinder, and went to a six in '24, that was the end of the big four. Incidentally, only the '23 1 ton had the 3 port head, although Olds had used it earlier and by '23 the BG and RM were gone. Kume; As far as I know, '28 big trucks here still had the 2 wheel brakes. Herb
Herb, Don't forget that those Kiwis do things differently down there- they may need front brakes to compensate for their toilets flushig backwards Now, if someone could just share a good picture of a 224 for reference/comparison...
Yes Mac - we are on a slightly steeper part of the planet heading down to the south pole so 4 wheel brakes were thought advisable. The flushing effect only affects carburation - updraft carbs in NZ work the same way as downdraft carbs in the US Herb I could be trying to sell coal to Newcastle but I am pretty sure the 1928 LP came out with 4 wheel brakes - they don't have equalizer bars like the passenger cars but use the same front axle. The earlier (1927) LM was rear brake only. Kume
Different but I like it,after being here for 35years I still get asked about the dunny flushing backwards.
well nearly two years, one divorce and two house moves later - some progress, albeit tiny. Front end and engine mounts sorted. 27 chev hubs on T axle works nicely. Second T cross member at front holds chev front engine mount. Decided to z the chassis slightly and drop rear spring, chev rear axle installed with model A radius rods . Another rear T cross member installed to take chev brake idler. Roadster subframe modified slightly to fit over everything. Not much suspension travel at rear but enough for my purposes. Andre Hartford's going on all four corners. Hoping 6 inch drop will look subtle.
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