Looking for pics of the mounting of the rear radius rods(wishbones) and a tranverse buggy spring on a 35-40 Ford ch***is using a later model 9 inch Ford. Thanks in advance.
I know it's not a 35-40, but would the mount pix from the CCI roadster plans help? They used a 70 Charger rear, but not sure if it were an 8.75" or a Dana 60. Regardless, if you want them I can dig them up. Jay
Rod & Custom did a how-to article on installing a `57 chevy rear into a `40 ford coupe (tom medley's) using a stock rear spring and and `36 rear bones. it was in one of the quaterly issues...number 10...........1979 i have it and could scan it and email it to you i have installed a 8" granada rear in a `40 using the stock rear spring , pete & jake's ladder bars and spring hangers...sorry , no pictures
If ya don't mind. I have a set of the 36 bones so I thought it might look more asthetically pleasing instead of a ladder bar setup(which is what I have now.
Rockabilly, car show, tatoos, betty paige, where do you get your whitewalls? Maybe that will get some attention.
Thanks but that's not really what I am after. I have a 36 Ford that I am gonna mount a 57 Ford 9 inch under. I am doing away with the ladder bars and parallel leaf set up and putting it back to a transverse leaf using the stock 36 bones.
Root,,Speedway sells some weld on brackets to mount the spring,, then the wishbones can be bolted up with fabed up brackets welded to the axle tube (64 impala)that the bones mount to. here's a pic of what i did along time ago...Clark and 1096 didnt seem to like it though so maybe you shouldnt take my advice since im just a low buck do it at home kinda guy
I did the same as ****, Speedway brackets on the 9 inch with 40 rear spring..... mine have worked great.
I guess I should be more specific. I actually was wondering how it was mounted to the front of the late model rear end? I was thinking of building a plate out of 3/8" material welding that to the housing and bolting the stock bones to it. I was just looking for ideas on how my bracketry should end up looking like.
I was just working on mine tonight! I'm using the '36 radius rods on a 1970 Cougar rear end. It will be going under my stock 1935 frame with stock rear spring. I'm fabricating tabs to weld on the housing for bolting the radius rods up to. Seams like the simplest and cleanest way to go. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.
root, I think there'd be too much stress on the late rearend to mount the 36 bones/spring stock like... cut the hangers off, use the bones and mount the spring with speedway type mounts. but what the hell do I know?!?!!!
You can do it like you're planning, but the radius rods alone won't be strong enough if you're switching to an open drive setup. Two options are to add links on top to create a Satchel link-type setup (this is the best way to go) or use a torque arm.
I was planning on using the Pete and Jakes adjustable hangers and the stock bones. So you're saying that the torque tube shared the majority of the load? Thus the name.....Torque tube. Hmmm.....
I used 40 radius rods and spring without a torque tube. I made some bars that mount up high on the rearend and mount at the front of the radius rods. Basically , ladder bars . Another idea I have seen is to mount the radious rods with a hiem joint at the rear end and made the radius rods lower 4- link bars. Just something to think about. jeff
One of my good fellow hambers sent me an old article from R&C that covers it. Kent Fuller did the mod. Very interesting. I asked this question a while back and we had an in depth discussion that pretty much turned me off of the idea. But I have talked to some guys that used the setup and said it worked fine, so I am back to pondering the idea. I'll see if I can dig up the old post.
How does a Satchel link-type setup work? I searched the www , but noone seems to descbibe the way how the upper bars are set up?! Thanks Michael
Here's a copy of the old link. Some interesting reading in here. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22539&&showall=1
Ouchy, I read that when it was new, and it brings the headache back... Not to hijack, but as a side discussion... I'm planning to build a 26.5" wide T frame, straight from the CCI plans... using a 9" r.e. and mild 302... Planning on using the plans' hairpin radius rods for primarily aesthetic reasons. (straight tube on top, bushed/heimed to the frame rails) Now, to throw in the monkeywrench, I'm not gonna use a transverse leaf, but jag coilovers. I've already concluded that the coilovers have to attach to the REAR (er, behind) of the axle, to (somewhat) counteract torque. Now, these hairpins made of steel tubing will FLEX, unlike the cast/forged bones, correct? Will that be sufficient, or do I need additional (triangulated, even if slightly) trailing arms, or would that just introduce bind? Would a simple torque rod do better? The plans leave it with just the hairpins, but since I'm changing the recipe...?? Thanks, J
if the 36 bones have this mod, would they hold the torque instead of having to put something unsightly on the rear for support?http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=684320
"Cast/forged" refers only to the front tips and rear of original rear radius rods or wishbones. The "rod" part is simply folded and welded tubing which is then welded to the forgings. The only rear radius rod with a substantial forging is the 35-36 which includes the spring mounting eyes. In original form the forgings mount to eyeball shaped steel gusset gussets which are welded to the axle housings at an angle and are "full-circle around the housing. Brackets made to mount these forgings to modern rearends are often as simple as two tabs welded to the housings or some a two=piece duplicate of the original 360 degree mount plates. All you need to worry about with the Jag coilovers is that you have a Panhard rod or Watts linkage to keep the rearend centered. The hairpin setup will work fine.
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