Register now to get rid of these ads!

Headlight Bar Dropping Tech

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tinmann, Jul 26, 2012.

  1. tinmann
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,588

    tinmann
    Member

    In an effort to get the ol' chikken kooop on the road next year, I'm trying to take care of all the little details. The funky ol' headlights I bought years ago at a swapmeet looked a little too high in the air.
    [​IMG]
    So I built a headlight bar dropping jig. The ones I had seen in my research left a little too much to chance.
    [​IMG]
    The bending end only has one of the bending mandrels in place to begin as I wasn't sure where the second one should go yet
    [​IMG]
    The other end will be unbolted from the jig when the heating and bending starts. You can see that I've etched some measurement increments in the jig for reference.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. tinmann
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,588

    tinmann
    Member

    The cloth you see taped onto the bar is to protect the stainless centre section from getting discolored with heat. This spacer will ride under the headlight mounting cup so that bar doesn't droop with heat. The angle on the spacer matches the angle of the cup so that I can easily check that angles don't change either.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Bring on the heat......
    [​IMG]
    .....and pull
    [​IMG]
    .... and pull more
    [​IMG]
    and before I go crazy and pull too much or too close to the mounting pad, I'd better check that those goofy bend mounting bolts can still be installed.
    [​IMG]
    It was too easy so I made an adjustment to move the mandrel closer to the pad.
    [​IMG]
    And bend again
    [​IMG]
    When I was sure it was bent far enough, I measured the other end to the jig so I could have a ballpark target to shoot for on side B.
    [​IMG]
    Setting up the second mandrel
    [​IMG]
    The bars I've looked at have a tighter radiused bend near the mounting pad and a more gradual radius near the headlight, hence two different sized mandrels
    [​IMG]
     
  3. tinmann
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,588

    tinmann
    Member

    Drilling a hole through the mandrel base into the jig so it can be bolted into position.
    [​IMG]
    and heat
    [​IMG]
    and rather than pull, I push now to get the bar back onto the jig
    [​IMG]
    My measurements etched into the jig told me my first attempt was a 2 1/2 inch drop.
    [​IMG]
    But looking at the centre line of the bar and the centre line of the jig told me I had actually stretched the length of the bar by a healthy 1/4". Not cool.
    [​IMG]
    So, I slotted the second mandrel and removed it for a sec while I made the initial bend a little tighter.
    [​IMG]
    repeat the second bend and I now had a true 3" drop and....
    [​IMG]
    the centre hole lined up.
    [​IMG]
    the non-business end is right on 3" below where it started and the bolt centrelines are where they should be.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. tinmann
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,588

    tinmann
    Member

    On to side B, which required a different spacer for the cup to ride on to avoid the dreaded heat droop.
    [​IMG]
    And when I finished to heat and bend routine as before, the mounting bolt holes can very close to being spot on. I did have to install a little cheater to make it perfect though.
    [​IMG]
    Once I had the tension on and the non-business end bolts in place, I re-applied the heat to the business side to help it relax and keep its proper length and shape.
    LIke a kid Christmas morning, I had to see if my efforts would pay off.....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    It's official, I'm in love!!
    Thanks for looking in.....
     
  5. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    Great job and thorough explanation!
     
  6. Deuce-Merchant
    Joined: Dec 1, 2007
    Posts: 326

    Deuce-Merchant
    Member
    from BC Canada

  7. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,491

    verde742
    Member

    Looks Great,
    Next might try what I did: I cut right at the holes that holds headlite, and put the short pieces on the opposite fenders, then bent them down, and welded back to cross bar.

    "More than one way to skin a cat, no matter, the Cat won't like it."
     
  8. cody1958
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 834

    cody1958
    Member
    from wichita ks

    Great work!! i like the change
     
  9. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,586

    117harv
    Member

    Great tech., thanks for taking the time to document and post...well done.
     
  10. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,644

    Crankhole
    Member

    Nice, thanks! This is on my "Things to do" list for my '29.
    Subscribed for later reference.
     
  11. tombstone
    Joined: Jan 15, 2006
    Posts: 527

    tombstone
    Member
    from sk.canada

    THANKYOU !!! Very well done ... great tech article !!!
    looks like you nailed it !! :D
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.