Hi, I am in Houston Texas and the feed stores tell me they never heard of sulfated mol***es. Where down here do you guys get the stuff? Thanks.
I just use mol***es dry horse feed I bought at the local co-op or Tractor Supply. I don't know about the sulfated part, but just regular mol***es feed works, albeit slow.
O.K. I have a feed dealer calling for it and they called their their supplier and he does not know either! All they sell is a 1 gallon mol***es container for deer. Would that be the same? Thanks
O.K. No one here in Houston has any clue if the liquid feed stock mol***es has sulfur in it. I can only find a 1 gallon bottle and nothing in bulk 5 gallon pail. Does anyone know for sure? Called 5 feed dealers today! Thanks Don.
The feed mill i get mine from(liquid) has it delivered to them in bulk and sell it by the pound, you have to have your containers or pay extra for theirs and if you have never head the term as slow as mol***es, you'll soon find out what they mean
O.K. Finally scored!!! Found it at Heiden Feed & Supply Co. off FM 1960. They get it shipped in large bulk store it in a huge tank and I brought 5 gallon pails. Yes they sell it by the pound but way cheaper than 1 gallon containers. And they even knew it was sulphered mol***as. Thanks to all again.
Hell No. Going to pickle a cowl for a 1930's race car. It is a 1919 Overland cowl with the front doors welded to it. Tail section is a couple of Ford hoods with metal in between it. Seats got shot up but solid. Going to see if the mol***es really removes the rust. I drove 1900 miles down here to get some of this miracle juice!
Don, you can get mol***es in gallon jugs at the Agway farm store in Altamont. Just bought some for cleaning some orange fuzz gears. Works very good, I used it in 7-1 solution. Key is to be patient and let it soak for an extended time period.
I called Altamont last month before I came down here . They did not know if their Mol***as had sulpher in it! I will check with them when we get back up North. I have to soak a cast iron quick change I just bought and it is a bit rusty. I need to locate a 6 spline lower shaft for closed drive shaft for it as it was missing when I got it. Thanks
Came down for a wedding and see family so I tried here in cattle and horse country. Also found the belly leather to make cup seals for the hand pump for pressurizing the fuel81 degrees the other day. Single digits at home.
its going to work awesome, i found that it likes to be in a warm place. I put the part in the container and i pour the mol***as right on the part. then i add the rest to the container i really don't have a ****ific mix of warm water to mol***es its almost 2 parts mol***es to 1 part water. have fun, experiment to see what works for you, you can't hurt anything with this stuff.
I tried the unsulfated type when I could not locate the sulfated stuff. I mixed it as you and put it into a crock pot and let it cook. Yes it pulled the rust off slowly from a pair of pliers left under a seat. Cleaned them right up. Hope the body panels react the same. Need to create a container to dip the cowl in. ***ume I will have to keep rotating the cowl to get it all. Possibly a plywood tank lined with poly and a cover but will have to wait until weather warms up. 10 degrees at home now!
O.K. I found the sulphated mol***es and mixed it up 3;1 ratio and put it in a 55 gallon plastic drum. Left several rusty small panels and an old steel gas pedal in the solution for three weeks. Pulled them out today and washed them off with water dried them and used a wire wheel on them. WOW Cleaned the rust right off to nice shiny steel. Put a coat of primer on them and now ready to go to work. I thank all of the Hamb guys and gals out there for all the help on this. Now I need a way to do large parts!! Thanks to all, Don.
I've never looked specifically for sulfated mol***es; didn't even know there was such a thing. always just used whatever mol***es the feed store I happened to go to had... dry or liquid. I've even used mol***es from the grocery store. all with great results. now I'm stuck using other methods after odor complaints from neighbors and (more importantly) the wife.
If the mol***es is too slow try electrosis(sp?)method.Works good on iron&steel.Either way you've got to rinse good or parts will flash rust.White pickling vinegar works good on smaller parts.
electrolysis is what I usually do now... cheap, easy, reasonably fast compared to mol***es. I use citric acid on some parts, too. neither of the above methods produce the putrid odor that mol***es did... but mol***es was great for "set it and forget it"... gets in all the nooks & crannies, can let it sit for ages without worry. can't let stuff sit in citric acid too long, plus have to neutralize it very well... electrolysis is more or less " line of site " meaning those nooks & crannies don't get cleared of rust without some additional work edit: to keep this on topic.... is sulfated mol***es better? safer? somehow different? curious now...
I used store mol***es: "Brer Rabbit"! Worked like a champ, just left my rusted Merc crank in for about 12 days. Pulled it out, rust scale just peeled off with a putty knife. Lost my '39 pedals, looked all over...at the end of summer (last) I cleaned out my mol***es drum...A pair of '39 pedals on the bracket & shaft came out, they looked new. I thought Karma had exchanged them for unfettered random acts of cool... But they were my lost ones. Nothing's cool....
any tips on keeping the odor down? i miss using mol***es and don't much mind the odor myself, but with the wife being pregnant she smells EVERYTHING...
the sulfur is to inhibit fermentation. otherwise you'd distill a batch of rum from it after you've soaked your car parts
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