Oil Additives?

Hey all.

I have a 1948 Chrysler Windsor, all original. My oil seems to get very dirty, very quickly. Like total opaque black after just a few 100 miles. Considering adding something like BG Quick Clean or Seafoam to the crankcase (following instructions) before changing the oil this season. Any thoughts?

Another side question-I have some smoking (blow-by?) and have been adding stuff that thickens the oil and helps seal the rings with good success. Will running the Quick Clean or similar product make my ring issue worse by cleaning everything out, or better by allowing everything to seat better, or ?

Can you tell I'm a bit of a novice...?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks-

 

what oil do you use now?

 

Decent reading here: http://partsblog.olathetoyota.com/4...on-guide-what-different-oil-colors-represent/

It's not so much the color, as it is the consistency. I add Marvel Mystery Oil at every oil change.

 

I had blow by on my truck and someone told me that maybe my valve seals were bad i changed the seals but havnt fired the motor yet.

 

oil is supposed to turn black as it suspends the dirt and carbon in it , the newer cars the filters and engines run better ( cooler) and are tighter and sealed ( no draft tubes ) plus use better filtering ( full instead of bypass ) so the carbon/dirt problem isn't as bad . has the pan ever been taken off and washed out ?? or the crankcase flushed ??? if not your wasting your time . as it will develop a layer in it . and the detergents will stir it up , and if the car used non detergent oil ( which was common back in the older years) , you will be stripping the layers of the stuff off the bottom of the pan with a detergent oil .and using a additive or cleaner will only loosen it up more and plug the screen on the pick up .

the filtering system is a bypass type and only cleans a little of the oil not all of it as it taps off the gallerys and then dumps it back in the pan , vs going thru the filter then on to the engine components.

IMo I would drop the pan and clean it .

 

As other people have said, your best bet is to pull the pan, pickup, and tappet cover. That sludge can completly destroy a motor if you're not careful. Clean everything up with either gasoline or carb cleaner. You may want to change the oil pump, depending on where it is located, but at the least clean out the oil passages.

As for additives, I've tried a lot of them in various different motors and haven't seen much difference. I use rotella diesel oil in most of my vehicles, driven a lot of miles with it and haven't had any issues. For the blowby in the motor, you might want to look at a pcv system from the tappet cover or breather to the carb base or air filter housing. Can sometimes look ungainly, but it does work. Good luck. -dd

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Sludge is a problem in many engines and I find many engines have it to some degree.

The big question is how much of a problem do you have and this is something that most guys simply guess at by looking at the breather cap.

There a number of excellent products on the market that can each help in their own way. What I mean by that is it's possible you only need a can of either Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone added to you oil to help with the problem.

If the engine is completely full of sludge and really plugged up those products won't really help very much and you will need to remove the value covers, intake and the pan to really help the engine.

Again the problem is trying to figure out how much of a problem you have so I always try and start with the simple fixes first and if that does not work start removing engine parts.

I have read so many articles and stories on which type of oil to use for old and new engines and what weight oil is the right weight and there are so many different opinions on this one subject you could fill a book and still not know any more then when you started.

It's a very confusing subject and everyone has their own opinion of what works best for them.

Jimbo

 

Bob is the oil guy is a website that covers all sorts of this stuff. Used oil analysis. Different filter comparisons with factual results. I don't remember the site just punch in bob is the oil guide in google and it'll be the top. Hope this helps

 

If it is a Chrysler Windsor it has an oil filter and it is probably a full flow filter (one of the first cars to have this feature).

The filter is in the can on the left side of the engine. Look at the pipes that go to it. If they are 1/4" ( the size of shoe laces) it is a partial flow. If they are 3/8 ( the size of a pencil) it is full flow.

Either will work, either will filter all the oil. The partial flow filters the oil very fine and takes about 15 minutes to do all of it. The full flow filters all the oil before it goes to the bearings but does not remove the fine dirt.

This is why the oil looks dirty.

Have you changed the oil filter? It is supposed to be changed every 5000 miles.

You can clean up the engine by changing the oil every 1000 miles for 2 or 3 changes.

I do not recommend flushing. Removing the pan and cleaning it out by hand is OK if you want to do it but you don't have to.

How many miles on the car? Normal engine life about 80,000 miles. How is the oil pressure? Have you done a compression test?

It may be that the engine is worn. You should be able to use 10W30, 10W40 or 15W40. No additives necessary.

Detergent oil was available when your car was built, and multigrade oil from 1951. Chances are your car always used them.

My guess is you are due for an overhaul or rebuild. This is not very difficult or expensive on that type engine. They are simple and parts are available.

Many parts can be ordered from your local NAPA store. There is a company called Vintage Power Wagons that has lots of parts, Power Wagons use the same engine.