COE Salvaging a 38 Ford COE

I have a 49 ford COE that I will be starting soon and this build is great inspiration. Keep up the good work.

 

maybe this will help

 

Thanks Bill and Brad for the pictures. It looks like the lower main body brace is exposed at the door bottom. I would have thought that it was wrapped by the inner rocker panels.

 

Very cool!

 

your welcome, does that door look as solid as we thought ?.....

 

The door is very solid, only a minor blister on the lower outer skin. Thanks for helping me get some of the much needed parts to salvage this old Bell Company truck.

 

nice work on your truck(s)...hope to see em around as I'm not far from you.
...here's some COE's I've drawn...

 

Awesome work Rusty, you too Tony.

 

Dang Rusty1, you need to post up some more stuff like that, those are bad ***! Great work!

 

...check out the past & future Friday Art Shows, I post on there each week.
these are "woodart", hand-drawn on 1x10 white pine boards, cleared with satin varnish...
they are about 32" each.
thanks fer the comments!

 

The Holmes wrecker bed is just about finished. I still need to find either 1938 Ford or 1938 Chevy pickup rear fenders for it. The floor will be wood except where it angles down at the back will be stainless diamond plate.



I will have to order the diamond plate. From the end of the inner tubs to the tail panel will be the plate.

 

38 ford pu fenders are 38-41 . I have a pair that are rough if interested pm me . Blue

 

Tony , here are some pictures of the fenders . They are rough but after seeing your metal skills no problem . Let me know and if you want to talk about them pm me your number , Blue

 

Great build, I like seeing all the detail and thought that went into every step.

Looking at your thread reminds me of when my dad used to say he was not a body man, he was a metal man.

Can wait to see more

 

Good grief, I am in awe.
I may never be able to shake your hand, but if you PM me I'll send a check and buy you a beer.

 

Man! You have some drive man! GO-GO GO!!!!!

 

Tony,is that a HF english wheel?I have been looking at them. Have you used it much yet,and what do you think about it? Phillip

 

Got a hf wheel . works fair but with 18g I put a support on top and sides 100000% better .

 

Yes, it is an older Harbor Freight Ewheel. Like most import Ewheels, the biggest problem is yoke slop. You can eliminate 95% of the slop by re-milling the V-grove to a 1/2" deep channel a fraction wider than the locking bolt. Then grind the nose off the locking bolt and run it in as fas as possible into the new channel without locking it. This will make it feel like a new machine.

The other issue is the quick release. There is no stop pin for the level. It just goes round and round. I don't worry about this as I never use this feature. But some guys drill a hole and insert a stopping pin at the upper limit and one at the lower limit of the quick release.

The newer HF Ewheels have a completely different quick release and yoke than my old HF Ewheel. Maybe they improved these issues?

 

Anyone know what the hell I'm doing here?






Chopping the top 3.5" straight down. Which means 3.5 in the rear and 3.75 on the A-pillars because of the angle. Also need to fix the cut up and rusted out roof.



Setting the roof back on to get a look at what is needed to align it all back up.



The roof will need to be split and stretched 1.25" to get the B-pillar re-aligned. It will also need to be split in the rear and widened .75".

N

The A-pillars will need lots of work to get them flowing back together.



The A-pillars on the COE cab taper as they go up. This makes it more challenging than say a regular 1938 ford cab. My plan is to get these A-pillars aligned up and tacked together first.

Here is the right hand A-pillar







Now, carefully aligning it back together







It is slowly coming back together.

 

Ok, now you're just being mean. Tease us some more.

 

You are the ultimate recycler and fabricator.
Amazing project. I congratulate you on this project.

 

another one being saved ... some really nice fabrication skills and cant wait to see the updates =)

 

tony, are you going to roll out a new roof, our do you have a section off a truck cab . ? ....talk of your H F english wheel, an inner tube works great on that upper wheel...it was a help on mine..

 

Brad, I have a roof skin from a '38 donor cab. After the chop is done I will cut out the center of the roof and weld in the donor skin. It is easier to just weld around the perimeter than to quarter the roof and fill in strips all the way across. Too hard to reach with hammer and dolly that way.

 

Greetings tony I think I have a couple of photos of what you were looking for,they are in my album under "my fleet" if you need more let me know ,I love your build,(ford in a ford ,god bless you, rodent motors infest so many fords ! True cabover ,really like the wrecker body, gonna build one for mine) now my questions, what do you weld your tin work with,( looks like mig?) where did you get your shirking disk and briefly how do they work?

 

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I use a Lincoln PowerMig 350. Tack weld every inch and then weld one inch at a time with a magnetic copper backer. The copper acts as a heat sink and prevents burn through. I'm a member of Metal Meet and the founder Wray Schelin makes and sells the shrinking discs I use. He also offers a DVD showing how it works and how to use it.

A little more progress getting the top back together.



And the donor roof skin.

 

Your build is motivational! I especially like the bed. When I get rid of a couple of projects, I hope to find a late 40s Chevy COE for my next NEXT project. Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks for the info how do I contact wray to purchase one?