Painting a steering wheel

I am looking for a 58 bel air, 59-62 Impala, or 65-66 Impala stering wheels. I would like a red or white one. I would love a 59 IMpala wheel but it is just not in the budget right now. I am able to find them but they all need repair which is fine. My question is has anyone ever repainted a wheel a different color? If so is there kit for this? I founf this wheel on Ebay and it appears to be in great shape, just the wrong color.

 

You can paint then like anything else. Take it apart, file the cracks out a little and fill them with bondo or JB weld. You can rattle can it with some Krylon and it'll look good.

DIRTYT, show 'em your light blue impala wheel...

 

Stickylifter is on the money, but I would use applance paint in a rattle can. It doesn't get tacky in a hot car like most spray paint will.

 

I asked the same thing a while back. Seemed like alot of people have had good luck with spray painting steering wheels.

I used semi gloss black Krylon on mine, and I need to redo it. All the paint is chipping off after only a short time. I cleaned and primed it really well before painting the black too.

Try PC-7 epoxy to fix cracks and chips. Worked really well for me.

 

I did one, epoxy the cracks, sand smooth, prime with sanding primer, sand again, and again. Used Acrylic enamel, bright and shiny, smooth as a lass's ass, lasted two years before I sold the car, no problems.

 

Do you think that "vinyl paint" or "interior paint" is any better for this? How about engine paint?

 

I used vinyl paint (for automotive applications) before, it flexes well, especially on horn buttons on newer steering wheels. But to be honest, even Krylon or somthing equivilant works well too, it doesn't cure/dry brittle hard like you might think it would. If your steering wheel has no soft pliable parts then I would use a good durable enamel. I am becoming more and more sold on the brush on stuff you can buy from hardware stores, if you use a good quality brush and apply it correctly you really don't get brush marks like you would think and it covers much better than rattle can. Of course it isn't a show quality smooth as a "lass's ass" finish, but it seems you could do a couple coats of brush on enamel and then finish sand and cover with a nice cleacoat rattle can.

Just my 2 centavos worth..

 

I used Krylon epoxy rattlecan paint on my '67 wheel. It's held up well for better than two years now.

 

If you are near the water and boat shops see if anyone is using "awlgrip" paint.a lot like "emron"......used a lot on fiberglass boats so it flexes well and won't chip...... you should use the special primer, the finish is great and lasts.

 

I had mine done recently. It was in pretty bad shape but after filling a and sanding it was painted with two pack paint. Looks real good.

 

i used pc-7 and regular primer,basecoat,clearcoat car paint...came out great and is super hard.

 

The reason I chose Acrylic Enamel is it is a lot like Imron. Hard as nails, but put on right, with minimal hardner, let it cure for a month, it's flexable, and don't ever fade, a lot of rattle can, air dry, fade over time. I'm sure there are others that will work satisfactorily. Another person has meantioned brushing paint on. There's a lot of advantages, like in fender wells etc. and he's right, proper technique and there's no brush marks. I've even brushed on Imron or Acrylic Enamel for touch up with okay results.

 

here's mine... flaked, candied and cleared, just like my roof. i could use a better bel air horn ring if you have one

 

Oooooh! What kind of wheel is that? Buick? I can 't see the emblem. What a great wheel.

 

or if'n ya got XS money floating around http://www.pearlcraft.com.au/welcome.htm

 

Thanks guys. I am currently still looking for one but now I know when I find it I'll be ready to repair it.

Andy

 

I always use pc7 to repair and 3 coats of rustoleum paint over primer. Rustoleum leaves a nice hard finish that doesn't wear off. I try to let it dry a week before driving with it.