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Technical 56 Ford F100 floorboard rust repair question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 5pointohh, Mar 18, 2014.

  1. 5pointohh
    Joined: Jun 24, 2013
    Posts: 6

    5pointohh
    Member

    So after tearing my 56 Ford F100 apart, I found on the driver side floorboard, by the bright light switch there was 2 rust holes about the size of a dime. I've never done a whole lot of rust repair, I'm mechanically inclined, done body work with bondo and fibergl***, but never cut out a floorboard and replaced it. This is the only rust on the truck that I have found, and I rather not replace the floorboard. What's the easiest way to fix this? I was thinking to try to weld the hole shut, and the POR15 the entire floorboard? Any other options? The truck will be garaged from here on out, and hardly ever see rain. I want to fix it right, so I don't have to worry about it down the road. Right now I'm just getting the truck back on the road to enjoy it, but maybe 5 years or so I will completely tear the truck down and possibly repaint. Attached is a picture of the rust.

    Thanks for the help[​IMG]
     
  2. 28TUDOR
    Joined: Jan 25, 2007
    Posts: 419

    28TUDOR
    Member

    For some reason I can't see your picture. Cut out the rust to good metal, weld in new, drill your holes for the switch. POR15 only works on rusty metal. Prime and paint.
     
  3. 5pointohh
    Joined: Jun 24, 2013
    Posts: 6

    5pointohh
    Member

    can't see the picture? what about this one?
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,921

    Larry T
    Member

    I think you are probably going to find more rust when you start to repair the floor. All 4 corners of a 56 Ford pickup cab seem to be rust magnets.

    But maybe you'll be lucky and just have to fill the holes. That would be a pretty simple repair.
     
  5. 5pointohh
    Joined: Jun 24, 2013
    Posts: 6

    5pointohh
    Member

    I sure hope not. The truck sat in a garage for over 20 years. It was repainted in the mid 80's. There's no visible rust anywhere on the exterior, including the cab corners. I've even ran my hand on the inside of the cab corners to feel for bondo or rust, and nothing. It appears that this is the only rust on the truck (I know, hard to believe).
     
  6. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,921

    Larry T
    Member

    I hope you're right. I started with a pretty rust free cab too.
    And ended up with this.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. 5pointohh
    Joined: Jun 24, 2013
    Posts: 6

    5pointohh
    Member

    ahh, yeah you never know till you get it media blasted. Right now, I'm just trying to make a solid dependable truck out of it then later on down the road I will probably dis***emble the whole thing and have it blasted. I would just like to get the truck back together and drive it.

    So for a "temporary fix" just weld the holes and POR15 it?

    Thanks
     
  8. khead47
    Joined: Mar 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,789

    khead47
    Member

    Old license plate! Very traditional.
     
  9. Gerry Moe
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 498

    Gerry Moe
    Member

    The plate covering the dimmer switch can be replaced with a new one from Mid-Fifties or Vintage Ford, or make a new one yourself. All floor panels can be replaced new ones from these suppliers also. I think you are gong to find more rust, so media blast is in order for more accurate picture or alot of grinding which removes metal.
    www.vintageford.com www.midfifty.com
     
  10. 5pointohh
    Joined: Jun 24, 2013
    Posts: 6

    5pointohh
    Member

    Thanks for the info - like I said I'm not doing a total frame of resto at the moment so theres no need to media blast the truck. Just want to fix it "temporary" at the moment. Wasn't sure if trying to fill the holes with weld, or cut out that piece and fab a new one in. I won't be using that switch anyways, my new column has the brights in the blinker.
     
  11. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    You're gonna find that those holes will get MUCH bigger as you cut and drill them out!:D That's not a biggie, as you'll wanna cut back the area until you find clean, solid metal all around each of the holes.

    I wouldn't do anything until you drop the gas tank, that's located below the floor board, in that area. With the gas tank out you could use a hole saw to drill out a nice clean hole, and use that same hole saw to cut out you patches. I'd go with some 16 gage crs. Tack each of the patches, with plenty of ''cool down'' time between tacks, and you'll soon have those holes welded solid. Just tacking glops of weld into rusted/rotton metal won't produce a very satisfactory repair.;)

    " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
     

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