Projects 52 Dodge B3B Hemi Project

Here is the seat, I had some trouble deciding on how to mount it and ended up with what you see here.

 

as you can see, I kept the factory seat brace, I had considered removing it but then realized it was a good solution to things rolling our from under the seat I feel that it came out well and doesn't look too much like something cobbled in there. I am using the factory 88 Dak seat which is slightly narrower than the factory seat (which was far too gone to use). I made some side plates to cover up the gap on the sides to give it a more finished look.

 

This is my speaker box and seat belt connection point (I am using the Dak 3 point seat belts). basically, I had two issues; where to mount some speakers and how to mount the top part of the seat belt. I made a frame out some 1/8" plate which will be welded into the truck. then I made a cover plate which the speaker mounts into. the seat belt nut was harvested from the Dak and welded into the frame. Not sure how it would fair in a FED crash test but it beats nothing. Since the truck is a 52, here in WA I don't have to have seat belts but with our drivers it isn't a bad idea

I will made a plate that goes from the frame to the back window to finish off that part. Next I am going to try my hand at a headliner which will be made of some thin paneling (like the stuff on the doors). Kind of cheap and cheesy but functional and will match the doors. I am going to put some sound deadner on the roof, back of the cab, inside the doors and perhaps on the floor. I am going with Black Hushmat as I have used their silver product on my Cuda and like it; easy to apply and forms well, unfortunately not cheap though.

 

So I am thinking about the seat, I found a place called precision seat covers and they have a cover that is tan leatherette and brown crocodile (or something like it); I am thinking that would be pretty cool.


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Just a suggestion for the headliner...and along the same lines you were thinking about. My '55 did not have a headliner either (as most of these old trucks do not) and I went to Lowes and bought a 4x8 sheet of brown marlite. I made a template out of a large piece of cardboard and transferred it to the marlite. I did have to make a pie cut in the marlite at the center of the back (about 6-8 inches) to help it to conform to the bow in the roof. I then went to local fabric store (Joanne's Fabrics) and purchased 2 yards of black headliner material ($11 a yard). I used contact cement to attach the fabric to the marlite. That was almost 2 years ago...still looks great. Total cost was well under $40.

 

that is a good idea, thanks. I will look into it. I have to wait for the hushmat so I have some time.

 

did you make the headline all one piece or two halves?

 

One piece and it wasn't to difficult to wiggle it into place in the cab. There was a small "shelf" at the front just above the windshield that it rested on and the same in the back. I just wedged it in and then put an interior light in the middle with two screws where the original was located to help pull it up in the middle. Again, its been in for almost 2 years (I think) without any problems. Also the back of the cab was not as wide at the top as the front, so I did cut a small pie shaped wedge out of the back edge to make it bow up just a little to fit the contour of the roof. If I remember, I put the marlite in first and then used contact cement (in a can, and a small paintbrush to apply it) and then stuck the headliner to the marlite. Contact cement is very strong (hold and smell) and will not let go. You just have to be careful not to drip it on yourself or your seat (hint: drop-cover.) After I glued it, I went back and tucked the edges in for a neat appearance.
Steve-

 

thanks for the information. I just recieved my hushmat, so I will put that in first and then make a pattern and go from there.

 

the Hushmat went well, it is amazing what effect it had when applied. The doors sound like modern vehicle doors, the roof sounds like it is made out of 1/2" steel... I bought 59 sq ft worth but calculated I needed 79 sq ft; that said I covered the roof, back of the cab, doors, and a little under the seat. Everything worked well except the floor, I think that becasue I didnt do all of the floor it still sounds a little "tinny", but once I get the tranns tunnel/console made it will stiffen that up.

 

Interior is coming together finally. the center peice is a bit challenging.

 

I continue to work on the interior, the center console/trans cover has taken on a life of its own. Not sure how many hours I have in it, but its a lot. Here are some pictures of my efforts/progress.

 

Here are some more of the trans tunnel/console

 

the little slot on the is a cell phone/pen/whatever holder. I am going to coat the cup holders, cubby, and cell phone holder in red plasti dip and the rest in bed liner. If you look at the last pic, there are 2 tabs on the lower console that go into slots in the panel above it which holds everything level. This way I don't have to use any screws in the top deck giving it a cleaner look. I still have to install all of the nut rivets an 10-24 screws as well as make a back panel.

 

On a related note, I have been trying my hand at TIG welding as 2 years ago I bought a new miller diversion 180. I have to say that while I can do it, it is vastly too slow for me in most cases. I find that I can MIG weld 90% of what I am doing in 10% of the time. I don't intend to abandon the TIG, but I don't see myself using it all that much.

 

Nice work! I wish I could fabricate and weld like that.

 

The opposite with me. I rather Tig than Mig. Cleaner, better control.


Ago

 

thanks. It has taken awhile to get some of it figured out but its one of those things you just have to dive in and try.

 

I can understand that, but it seems so slow and being used to MIG, I tend to want the weld to be "fatter" so I end up putting too much heat into the piece. I will say that this weekend I did more TIG than ever before and the more I did it the easier it became. I am not hating on TIG at all, I just think it is one of those "right tools right job" deals.

 

...tig certainly requires a lot more practice and a steady hand.

.

 

Perhaps part of the problem is that I haven't been exposed to a lot of TIG welding and seen it in process. Obviously I have seen the results of it in manufactured goods but I haven't had the opportunity to sit with someone who is good at it and knows what they are doing so that I can see right from wrong. I have watched you tube read books etc and I understand his to do it; it's just that it seems like I am missing some key element. Don't misunderstand me, I have successfully TIG welded several items and spent time practicing, getting better each time. It's just that as I said it seems so slow and for most of my projects where I am going to grind it and form it anyway the MIG is significantly faster.

I think part of my issue is heat range: for 16 gauge sheet metal I started with about 30 amps, but it seemed like I couldn't keep the puddle flowing. I went to 55 and it was significantly better but seemed like I was pouring so much heat into the piece.


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Keep practicing you will get it. Keep a real short gap, get comfortable. Easier sitting down and resting hands. You are correct, if you get a chance to watch someone that is good at it you will learn a lot from watching. What I like most of TIG is you can weld anything, and you don't have to worry about stray sparks burning something.






Ago

 

i definiitely like the "non-violent" aspect of it. I will keep working at it as I get the opportunity.

 

So, for welding 16 gauge sheet metal are there any recommendations on amperage or rod size?

 

Are you talking TIG welding 16 gauge? Learning to TIG weld is easier on heavier metal. But for 16 GA. about 60 amps. Roughly 1 amp per thousand thickness of metal. EI: .060 thick 60 amps. You have to have bare metal and real clean with TIG. Use only non-chlorinated brake clean.



Ago

 

I really appreciate the response. That makes me feel better about it as I was practicing and found that 60-65 was working well. I was wiping it down with acetone (saw it on you tube). This might seem obvious but do you select the filler size based on the material thickness or gap you want to fill?


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Wire size on material thickness, Acetone is fine.


Ago

 

Time to get back to work on the truck. I have been working on slowly when I have time but life continues to intercede. I just finished sprucing up my new truck and I bought a tractor.


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I have been trying to get the center hump/console finished but it is fighting back. I have 4 parts that comprise the entire thing and I decided that I needed rolled edges to give it a more finished look than just flat plates; who would know the ripple effect that would have. I ended up almost having to rebuild all of it; one step forward and two back... I will post some pics soon. After that I am tackling the headliner and back interior panels. I needed up buying some thin plastic paneling from lowes that I am hoping will work.


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Anyone have any advice for break in oil?